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Engine tick/tapping noise only taking off in gear

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yeah ok well theres a regullar tick tick tick tick tick then again like four ticks then silence then four ticks. This forum does not allow fro easy attachments one assumes as a security measure
 
Check the clutch again. Sounds like the noise occurs as the load is taken up. Which may point to the cush drive in the back of the clutch. You may have partially collapsed springs in there. Not uncommon on high mileage motors.
 
The Factory Manual will have the length of the Springs for the clutch. Personally, I always replace my clutch springs and stick with stock clutch parts. As far as the chain goes, you're the one next to the bike, and it takes seconds to check out the chain, so what's the big deal?

That the tick goes silent under load takes you away from the valves or pistons. Since the clutch was the last thing you did, just back trace your steps and you will find the problem. That the sound goes away under load seems to indicate something loose. :)
 
So I inspected the chain and sprockets last night. Everything looks good to my eyes. But I may go ahead and replace them anyway. I want this bike to be absolutely perfect. Which it won't be lol

Today when I get off work, ill pull the clutch basket out and inspect the springs. I'll keep everyone updated. Thanks
 
I went back to listen again, at lo volume (as I had it the other night) I hear nothing, as I turned the volume up, the tick was very noticeable. When I heard it I's with Grim, sounds like exhaust leak, but not sure if an ex. leak would only happen when starting to apply pressure the drive train.... Just say'in, s you're working on them anyway, something that has worked great for me is to replace the ex. bolts with studs and nuts. It gives you something to hang the ex. on while installing, nut much easier to get started without cross threading and easier to get penetrating oil on than the bolt that is way down in there, and 1/2 the chance of twisting off coming out.
 
On my Suzuki all the studs broke off. I Heli-Coiled all 8 holes, and replaced them with number 8 hardness bolts. No leaks, and the exhaust comes off as easy as it goes on. Those studs hanging in front of the engine get a lot of reasons to corrode.

When I do a clutch, I remove the inner and outer basket. I don't know how far you got into it. Clutch plates have a line on the edge, I stagger those each other steel plate, so that the compression is happening around the whole circle of the clutch. I just watched a video where the guy put in his clutch with the "line" marks all lined up. I was camped next to "Team Suzuki" and made friends with once of the mechanics, and he told me to do this. I have on every bike I have done a clutch one. If off sets the pads so by the time they are all installed, the clutch is engaging all points, in a spiral. My clutches last on average around 40K miles on my 3 bikes, and the others I have done for customers are still riding them and never had a complaint.

I don't understand the "Piano Wire" you speak about. Are you referring to the one wire clip? :)
 
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That piano wire, I've heard, read, and wondered about it for yrs., but have heard no reason for it, that made sense... Something else about the ex. gaskets. The OEM gaskets get baked in there and become tight "AND HARD" many times there can be a small layer or piece of the old gasket still stuck in there. It will look like alum. and when scratching on it with a pick or screwdriver still looks and feels like alum. but is a piece of old gasket...
 
Also want to put this in there, but don't know how to copy and paste. Google says, steel threads in alum threads can interact with a galvanic action and can micro weld to each other. This can cause serious problems especially with steel bolts and spark plugs in alum. cylinder heads. That's why so many GS's have had fixes like Suzukian mentioned. For me, if the steel stud is gets micro welded in the head, the nut being steel like the stud, there should be no micro welding at that point plus it's much easier to get penetrating oil on both sides of the 1/8 thick nut threads than it is to get a good dose of penetrating oil down in those threads that are appx 1/2" deep down in the head. Yes, if you've already ruined the threads in the head, as he and many others have done and installed steel Heli-Coils, the bolts should come out much easier with no micro welding. Of course just an opinion... Be sure to get "ALL" pieces the old gasket out.
 
So the clutch steels and friction plates are out and I noticed the rear hub/inner basket (whatever you call it) that the drive gear connects to has some slight inner and outer play, and slight side to side play. To me it doesn't seem excessive, but honestly, I'm not sure how much play is too much.

I'll record a video of the play and upload it, for now, I'm going to continue pulling the hub off.
 
Good video, I looked at it, very clear. I'm kind of picky about things. If you could check the hub "radially" with a gauge, and see if when going in a circle, it has play, that compounded with the play on the spline would indicate that is where your problem is. I do think this is where your problem is, it not, you just found a problem. . Under load you don't hear it as it is forced against the surface, and just progressively wears out of round more. IMHO

Take the out hub off and look at the inside splines on the outer cage, and look at the splines of the shaft. I would bet the Outer hub is worn. If you could mount it on a lathe or milling machine, you could check the splines to see just how much, you can't fix it, but you would know that you next search on EBAY would be. ;)
 
Suzukian said:
Good video, I looked at it, very clear. I'm kind of picky about things. If you could check the hub "radially" with a gauge, and see if when going in a circle, it has play, that compounded with the play on the spline would indicate that is where your problem is. I do think this is where your problem is, it not, you just found a problem. . Under load you don't hear it as it is forced against the surface, and just progressively wears out of round more. IMHO

Take the out hub off and look at the inside splines on the outer cage, and look at the splines of the shaft. I would bet the Outer hub is worn. If you could mount it on a lathe or milling machine, you could check the splines to see just how much, you can't fix it, but you would know that you next search on EBAY would be. ;)
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info, I just took the clutch housing/hub completely off and 3 of the springs are very loose. The shaft looks fine, but the splines on the outer hub do look somewhat worn.

I'm not sure what my next steps should be. I'm thinking about buying all new parts from Suzuki. (Hub, bearings, etc.) Or maybe ebay, like you mentioned.

Here's another video
https://youtu.be/-N1-4dX1xMQ
 
I'd try EBAY first. I've made out really well on EBAY, and from some members of this forum also. Someone here may have everything you are looking for. Replace all the Clutch Springs with new ones. They are old, and being compressed for so long just can't give you the pressure you need. If you have deep enough pockets, get the stuff new, if still available. I tend to buy used, looking at the seller's reputation, and how many miles where on the bike it came off of. Some people drop these bikes at 10 to 20K miles and they sell them for parts, you end up with a good deal. :)
 
Stephen, you're new here, just wondering if you know you have Private Messages (PM's)?
 
Stephenabner said:
Thanks for the info, I just took the clutch housing/hub completely off and 3 of the springs are very loose. The shaft looks fine, but the splines on the outer hub do look somewhat worn.
Click to expand...

Are there any instructions in the repair manual for assessing whether or not something needs attention? Some slop or play may be normal although that certainly would be counterintuitive.
 
There NEVER should be slop on splines of any sort (inside or outside). That is the very reason splines are used. You have to replace the outer hub, the inner one could be fine, unless that one has any discernible slop. If you don't, it could cause your clutch plates which use these parts to locate themselves, to stick and wear prematurely. The springs have to also be replaced, old age, and the ability to hold the pressure required. :)
 
So here's an update. I installed new OE exhaust header gaskets and installed new clutch hub springs and the noise is still there.

I rode the bike without a helmet on and it sounds like the tapping/ticking is definitely increasing in speed with the RPM, which leads me to believe it's in the valvetrain. Still not understanding why it only taps under load and only when the engine is warmed up.

Sure hope it's not a small end
 
Dang, hoped the tick was was gone. I dun'no, My CB1100F has a valve a little loose, it ticks a little when first started cold, but completely quiet after warms a couple of minutes. Under load or not has nothing to do with the tick... Hoping for more ideas.
 
rphillips said:
Dang, hoped the tick was was gone. I dun'no, My CB1100F has a valve a little loose, it ticks a little when first started cold, but completely quiet after warms a couple of minutes. Under load or not has nothing to do with the tick... Hoping for more ideas.
Click to expand...

I was thinking if it was in valve train it would make noise all the time right? I'm not sure

I'm up for ideas, and will do whatever it takes. I want to completely restore this bike. I'm kind of fell in love with it
 
Check cam chain for stretch. And tensioner.
also try a stethoscope to pinpoint.
or a hardwood dowel though its more cumbersome.

old cb 550 a friend had sounded like a sewing machine but became quiet at operating temp.
the tappy is happy school of valve lash is lazy and denies the impact of mass x acceleration.
Is .005" is the middle?

could a slightly Ben valve be sticking.?

Is an internal element in the delkevic pipe possible?

maybe try a heavier oil mineral not synth to see if the sound changes or moves.
 
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