• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Gas gauge quit working on S model

nvr2old

nvr2old

Forum Sage
The gas gauge on my '79 S has stopped working. After I finished the build it worked fine, then after a month or so it only registered a half tank when filled, then down to a quarter, now..nothing at all. I've checked all the external electrical connections and they seem fine..do I remove the sending unit next..? If so, what do I check for? Thanks for any advice. ;)
 
Even an old-timer needs to be reminded of the vast amount of documented help on this site. Thanks for pointing me in that direction, Steve.
 
I have a similar problem on mine; the PCB board wire wound slider pot that makes up the gauge is fabricated using a piece of Formica of similar board. It tends to warp and throw the slider off. I have to get into mine. It just goes bonkers with just the key on.
 
Bimetal (needle moving) component in the gauge is known to fail on occasion too. Sender unit failure is more common though, and easier to fix, so I'd look there first.
 
I'll go with disconnecting the two leads at the tank sender and check the float's (senders) resistance to confirm.
 
rustybronco said:
I'll go with disconnecting the two leads at the tank sender and check the float's (senders) resistance to confirm.
Click to expand...
Yes, that can work both ways, too. Ohm out the leads to the tank to check the sending unit, or jumper across the two on the bike to watch the gauge go to FULL. :D

Just keep in mind that if the sending unit is really wonky, you won't know whether your readings on the meter are correct or not.

.
 
Jethro did a very nice writeup about cleaning up the fuel sending unit. Here's the link. It was years ago and the pics are no longer visible but maybe he can re-post them for you.

Thanks,
Joe
 
Thanks for all the quick replies, you guys. I'm such a squid when it comes to electrical problems..not even sure how to use a multi-meter as embarrassing as that is to admit, but I'll pull the sending unit and make sure all the components are working correctly and go from there. Love this site. ;)
 
nvr2old said:
then after a month or so it only registered a half tank when filled, then down to a quarter, now..nothing at all.
Click to expand...
It's either going to show resistance, or it isn't. It's a pretty cut and dried senario.
 
I have just the opposite problem. Gauge was on about a 1/3 of a tank when I got it. Did some poking around in the wires working on the directionals and it went to full and since has only dropped about a needles width under full no matter how much gas is in it. Gonna have ohm test the tank side myself now that I have a new multimeter but what can I test on the gauge side to see if that is even getting power at all? I have tried testing the different leads that go into the back of it with no results (but that was just before I found out my old multimeter was junk.)
 
xxBenJamminxx said:
I have just the opposite problem. Gauge was on about a 1/3 of a tank when I got it. Did some poking around in the wires working on the directionals and it went to full and since has only dropped about a needles width under full no matter how much gas is in it. Gonna have ohm test the tank side myself now that I have a new multimeter but what can I test on the gauge side to see if that is even getting power at all? I have tried testing the different leads that go into the back of it with no results (but that was just before I found out my old multimeter was junk.)
Click to expand...

look at the manual it pretty much explains how to test the sensing units.
 
The initial easy check is to put 12 volts through the meter first (just unplug the sender and connect up the wires going to the meter to your battery). If the meter shoots up to full it's your sender that's at fault. If it doesn't move your problem lies in the wiring or the meter.
 
hampshirehog said:
The initial easy check is to put 12 volts through the meter first (just unplug the sender and connect up the wires going to the meter to your battery). If the meter shoots up to full it's your sender that's at fault. If it doesn't move your problem lies in the wiring or the meter.
Click to expand...

What if it always shows full even with it unplugged?
 
Mine $hit it self so I just don't worry about it and use the oddometer to work out how much juice is left . I pi$$ed around with it a bit but could never get it to work "properly".
Just have to remember to reset it each time I get fuel (I only forget once . Heavy to push these old girls).

Cheers , Simon .
 
check to make sure the float hasn't disconnected itself from the sensor arm, mine did that. you can also take a piece of heavy wire (coat hanger etc) and use it to fish the float arm up and down and see if you can get any reading at all from any position. It has an R/C network to keep the meter from "bobbing" when the fuel sloshes so it takes a minute to get a change when you move the arm but you will see it start to move almost right away.
 
So, guess I'm not the only one who's had to dink around with these things, then, eh..? :D

I'll take it out and futz around with it with this weekend. I've gotten used to using the trip meter, too..but it just picks away at me whenever I look down at it knowing it doesn't work..
 
nvr2old said:
So, guess I'm not the only one who's had to dink around with these things, then, eh..? :D

I'll take it out and futz around with it with this weekend. I've gotten used to using the trip meter, too..but it just picks away at me whenever I look down at it knowing it doesn't work..
Click to expand...


Hey was wondering if you ever got your gauge working or not? I have done some testing and get infinite resistance on the sending unit side and the gauge its self is always on full now, whether the the key is on or off, or tank is unplugged or not from harness.

Just is still bothering me that the gauge was at like 1/3 of a tank when i got it, then messed around with wiring by headlight and then it shot up past full a little bit. Now (2 months later) it has slowly fell down about a needles width below the full line. May go out there later and do some more testing now that I got a new meter since messing with it last time.

Any tips on testing whether there is power getting to the gauge itself would be helpful. If I remember right there are 3 wires going to 3 different bolts on the back of the gauge. Maybe I can just figure out what does what by playing around with the tester some.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top