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GS1000 Base Gasket Replace. w/ Pics

  • Thread starter Thread starter Billyboy
  • Start date Start date
Cleaned up the combustion chambers yesterday. Not perfect, but pretty good, I think.
Engine017.jpg
 
80GS1000 said:
What'd you use to decarbonize?
Click to expand...


On the valves: sharpened screwdriver. Used as a chisel.
Chamber: VERY careful use of same [-o<, brass brush, steel wool.

I think a brass wire weel on a dremmel would save a lot of time.
 
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Billyboy said:
*AHEM*!!

Hi there. I'm Canadian.:-D
Click to expand...

See, even Ozzies and Kiwis dis the Canadians.

Looking good so far. Are you about ready to start reassembly?

BTW, I used the 4 hose clamp method on my pistons to reinstall the cylinder block. Easy for a solo operation.
 
Big T said:
See, even Ozzies and Kiwis dis the Canadians.

Looking good so far. Are you about ready to start reassembly?

BTW, I used the 4 hose clamp method on my pistons to reinstall the cylinder block. Easy for a solo operation.
Click to expand...

I think I'm ready.

Thanks for the tip.:-D
 
Combustion chamber looks great. Good job.

How long ago since the intake boot O-rings were changed? If more than 5 years or so, now is a good time.
 
Man, this whole thing makes me want to tear into the GS650 and fix all the little problems. Only thing is parts and me being 550 miles away. :(
 
Nessism said:
Combustion chamber looks great. Good job.

How long ago since the intake boot O-rings were changed? If more than 5 years or so, now is a good time.
Click to expand...


I've got new o-rings somewhere. I've just got to find them and install.
 
Billy Boy,

Just surfed through this thread and let me say thanks so much for the great photos and commentary. I, too, am in the proces of complete and total overhaul of my GS1000SZ motor (16v). You are very lucky to have not had any trouble with your base gasket. I suspect mine was the original and let me tell you it's been a bloody nightmare to get cleaned off.
I'm using Dupli-Color engine paint with ceramic, and so far so good. Of course, the motor isn't back together yet, but it seems durable.

I stripped down to the cases and cleaned them in a solvent tank, followed by a high temp industrial parts washer. Repeated the cycle 3 or 4 times and my cases, jugs, and head all came out spotless. Of course I, too, coated the guts with WD-40 to prevent corrosion. As far as cleaning the pistons, I let them soak in seafoam for a few nights and they cleaned up real nice. Still need to get after the combustion chamber but it's too cold in my garage and I don't think mama would appreciate me dripping black goo all over the living room carpet....

Kudos to you for a job that appears to be well doing!!
 
Thanks, Smoke!
Good luck with your big Kat.

After careful consideration, I'd decided not to paint the jugs. It looks too good in stock form, and I don't think I could prep it well enough to make it stick.

Found my o-rings. Little grease to install, or dry?
 
I couldn't find anything in the manual about installing new intake o-rings, so I decided on dry.

Stupid photobucket won't let me upload one pic.
It's of the head with two boots installed and two not.

Here's the two remaining boots and o-rings. The boots are still very pliant and flexable. If not you better replace them.
Engine019.jpg


Then after I got them on I had a stroke of genious: Loosen the vacuum ports NOW rather than discover them to be seized later.:-D Of course, my beloved GS didn't let me down. They came loose after applying only moderate force.

Engine020.jpg
 
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How high is high temp?
I've got some continous 205C grease. Will that do?
 
Billyboy said:
How high is high temp?
I've got some continous 205C grease. Will that do?
Click to expand...
huh, not really an expert on that... the one i use just says "withstands extremely high temperatures" LOL!
i think you should be all right though. the idea is that it shouldn't run off or burn readily and your application is not critical anyway (such as brake calippers for example) so i'd use it
 
Ya know, I just used white lithium grease on my exhaust header bolts and after a year they came right out when I pulled it to get it recoated. Still seemed a bit "wet" too. I would think some copper anti sieze would work okay, too but don't quote me on that.
 
Smokinapankake said:
Ya know, I just used white lithium grease on my exhaust header bolts and after a year they came right out when I pulled it to get it recoated. Still seemed a bit "wet" too. I would think some copper anti sieze would work okay, too but don't quote me on that.
Click to expand...

An English anti-seize, Rocol J-166 works great on those exhaust studs/bolts. It contains copper, molibdenum disulphide and graphite. I have used it on all my past engines. Any similar US product will work.

Billyboy, I have only just checked out this thread. Your early pics show the piston in #2 pot with dark marks on the rear skirt. This indicates that that piston is short on clearance with the bore under certain conditions. The colour of that piston crown is a very light brown with not much carbon on it compared to #1. I think that #2 has been running fairly lean and to a lesser extent, also #3. This is reducing the running clearance of the piston to bore. You need to address this leanness before putting any hard miles on your rebuild.

Fit your base gasket dry. If you oil/grease it you risk dust and grit particles sticking to it while you wrestle with fitting up the pistons to the jugs. When they are dry, you can give the base area a light blow with compressed air before dropping the pots onto the gasket. Just don't put the air gun too close to the gasket as the air velocity may tear the new gasket.

If you've still got the head off, put a straight edge across the chambers to check for a bow. If you have more than 0.003 inch gap under the middle chambers, you should bump straighten and then re-surface the head.
 
49er said:
An English anti-seize, Rocol J-166 works great on those exhaust studs/bolts. It contains copper, molibdenum disulphide and graphite. I have used it on all my past engines. Any similar US product will work.

Billyboy, I have only just checked out this thread. Your early pics show the piston in #2 pot with dark marks on the rear skirt. This indicates that that piston is short on clearance with the bore under certain conditions. The colour of that piston crown is a very light brown with not much carbon on it compared to #1. I think that #2 has been running fairly lean and to a lesser extent, also #3. This is reducing the running clearance of the piston to bore. You need to address this leanness before putting any hard miles on your rebuild.

Fit your base gasket dry. If you oil/grease it you risk dust and grit particles sticking to it while you wrestle with fitting up the pistons to the jugs. When they are dry, you can give the base area a light blow with compressed air before dropping the pots onto the gasket. Just don't put the air gun too close to the gasket as the air velocity may tear the new gasket.

If you've still got the head off, put a straight edge across the chambers to check for a bow. If you have more than 0.003 inch gap under the middle chambers, you should bump straighten and then re-surface the head.
Click to expand...

Thanks for all the advice! The bike used to have stock exhaust with a few of the baffles missing. I think Theat is the leanness that it evident. The bike was running very rich when I got a stage 3 kist from DJ. I think I've finally got the needles in the right spot. I'm thinking of getting a colourtune and carbtune from morgan's.

What's a "Bumb straighten"?
 
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Billyboy said:
Thanks for all the advice! The bike used to have stock exhaust with a few of the baffles missing. I think Theat is the leanness that it evident. The bike was running very rich when I got a stage 3 kist from DJ. I think I've finally got the needles in the right spot. I'm thinking of getting a colourtune and carbtune from morgan's.

What's a "Bumb straighten"?
Click to expand...

"Bump straighting" is when you set the head up in a press and apply pressure in two or three places to straighten any curvature of the surface that mates to the cylinders. Care must be taken not to mark the mating surfaces during this operation.
If you just re-surface a warped head, the chamber volumes will vary when the head is torqued up. The greater the warp, the more variance will occur. The other problem with just re-surfacing without straightening is that the cam bearings will not be aligned correctly when the head is torqued up.
If the bow is 0.003 inch or less you don't need to re-surface. My 850 had 0.0025 inch bow and at 10.5-1 has not caused any problems without re-surfacing.
 
I got the cylinders and head back on.
It's really simple, just follow the manual and go slow.

I lubed up the rings and cylinders.
Cleaned the gasket mating surfaces. Wrestled through.
It's a pain dealing with the cam chain.
I just used my fingers and a flat screwdriver to pop the rings in.
After I got the cylindersdown flush I held up the cam chain and turned over the crank. I wanted to be sure I didn't screw up the rings. Everthing spun freely. \\:D/
Cleaned up some oil on the top of the cylinder block. Then got the head.
It's all really straight forward. Rubber cam channel gasket, head gasket goes on with the wider metal part to the cylinders.
Be very careful not to drop any washers or nuts down the cam channel.
Torque in sequence.

Didn't have time for a lot of pics, but they don't show much anyway.

Now cams and timing...:confused:
 
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