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high heat black

Thats engine paint, I'm looking for 2000 degree header paint. I really don't know what temp the head pipes run at but I figured the higher the paint temp the better.Since our stock exhaust is double walled maybe the outer pipe will run cooler.
 
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I'm unaware of any high gloss black header paint. I think there is a reason for that...
 
I've tried various high-heat flat black exhaust paints and they don't last.
However, I've not tried high-heat ceramic coatings - maybe they do last.
I eventually gave up on that and bought another set of downpipes.
 
Grimly said:
I've tried various high-heat flat black exhaust paints and they don't last.
However, I've not tried high-heat ceramic coatings - maybe they do last.
I eventually gave up on that and bought another set of downpipes.
Click to expand...

Ditto on that. I got very nice results with VHT's gloss black on my clutch cover. For the head pipes, I've used "Helix" VHT flat black "silica - ceramic 1300 - 2000 degree" exhaust paint.

Never seen gloss paint for the headers.
 
The reason I want gloss is because I'm putting my stock exhaust back on. They have sat in storage for decades and have gotten a little surface rust. I'm thinking that because of dual wall head pipes the outer pipe would be cool enough for a good high temp paint. Anyone ever heat gun a set just to see?
 
First I use rust mort to neutralize the surface rust then pressure wash then alcohol wipe down then paint.
 
red1100 said:
Does anyone know of a very high temp gloss black not flat available for header paint?
Click to expand...

I used flame proof vht paint on my RF900 headers I say header as the first 4" from the cylinder head are stainless steel so I did not paint those from stainless it's mild steel until it exits from under the bike its then stainless. so all the mild steel was painted. The stuff I used in the link below says it has silicone and ceramic you do need to use the primer then the finish coat following the instruction carefully, preparation is key. I have been very happy with the results. I did ask the supplier about the curing process the reply was you can prime let compleatly dry then finish coat again compleatly dry then do the curing as both primer and finish cure at the same rate. The link is to a supplier in the uk but if I remember correctly the product is made in the USA.
oh yeh there is no black gloss.
i cannot stress enough that the paint must be completely dry between coats and again before curing or it will bubble

https://www.frost.co.uk/vht-very-high-temperature-flat-black-flame-proof-paint-312g-aerosol/
 
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I think the only way you are going to get glossy pipes is to have them ceramic coated.
That involves blasting the existing finish, then re-coating.
 
fastbysuzuki said:
I used flame proof vht paint on my RF900 headers I say header as the first 4" from the cylinder head are stainless steel so I did not paint those from stainless it's mild steel until it exits from under the bike its then stainless. so all the mild steel was painted. The stuff I used in the link below says it has silicone and ceramic you do need to use the primer then the finish coat following the instruction carefully, preparation is key. I have been very happy with the results. I did ask the supplier about the curing process the reply was you can prime let compleatly dry then finish coat again compleatly dry then do the curing as both primer and finish cure at the same rate. The link is to a supplier in the uk but if I remember correctly the product is made in the USA.
oh yeh there is no black gloss.
i cannot stress enough that the paint must be completely dry between coats and again before curing or it will bubble

https://www.frost.co.uk/vht-very-high-temperature-flat-black-flame-proof-paint-312g-aerosol/
Click to expand...


When you say "the paint must be completely dry between coats" Would you want to allow each coat to cure 7 days ?
 
grcamna2 said:
When you say "the paint must be completely dry between coats" Would you want to allow each coat to cure 7 days ?
Click to expand...

Can only say what I did, it was winter and the bike was not being used so yes I left it two weeks in between coats and likely 4 weeks after finish coat before being cured on the bike. I found it's better to use a medium grade emery cloth to roughen the surface as the final step then a really good degrease before painting
 
IMG_20210722_073226.jpgI used Duplicolor caliper enamel paint with ceramic in gloss black at Autozone. Good for 500 degrees F. They sat in the sun and baked for about 6 hours.
 
VHT"Flameproof" series has a "Clear" (and FYI, a primer...).that goes on top of the primer-> flat black*... but it's semi-gloss, really ...

So, the process is primer,flat,clear as per the microscopic font given as instructions on the can.

Be very very careful trying to follow instructions. If you get stuck between coats,(I ran out of black so be sure to get two cans where going over chrome+primer) it's a very good idea to LEAVE IT at least a week before continuing coats...as the instructions say.

Sometimes I succeed, sometimes not-I've developed several superstitions...LEAVING IT ALONE beyond a week in warm weather also helps to cure it but do many short startups too, to cure. Ideally, stop the engine BEFORE it smokes and at the first whiff of hot paint. An IR thermometer may help, but not necessary. Maybe its real use is as something to keep your attention on the criticality of the process...

The most vulnerable to "curing failure" is the closest to engine and around the bend...

*There's also an "aluminum" silver and a bronzy-looking "steel" colour.
 
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Check with Cerakote in the US. They make an 1800F ceramic coating that sprays on. It is the best exhaust coating I have ever used. They are not cheap, they make some of the best coatings in the world for specialty use.
 
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