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Horn relay mod

  • Thread starter Thread starter OLDENUFF
  • Start date Start date
O

OLDENUFF

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Anyone have a part # for a 4 terminal relay needed for this mod? My local Napa dealer has a catalog full of 3 pin relays. 1980 GS1100L.
 
I don't have a part number, but if you tell the parts pullers you want a driving light relay/fog light relay they should be able to hook you up with a 4-pole.
 
DanTheMan said:
I don't have a part number, but if you tell the parts pullers you want a driving light relay/fog light relay they should be able to hook you up with a 4-pole.
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Dan, You over estimate the intelligence of the average Canadian parts guy... :eek: It's a horror show.
 
58yroldbikr said:
Anyone have a part # for a 4 terminal relay needed for this mod? My local Napa dealer has a catalog full of 3 pin relays. 1980 GS1100L.
Click to expand...
A 3-pin relay works quite well. :D

Only drawback is that in its basic simplicity, it will allow the horn to be sounded even with the key off.

It's easier to stick with a 4-pin, though, just go to any Auto Zone, Advance Auto, even Wal-Mart, get a relay for a set of fog lights, it costs a whopping $5.

.
 
DanTheMan said:
I don't have a part number, but if you tell the parts pullers you want a driving light relay/fog light relay they should be able to hook you up with a 4-pole.
Click to expand...
The fog light relay on my previous Toyota van only had three terminals. :p

.
 
Steve said:
It's easier to stick with a 4-pin, though, just go to any Auto Zone, Advance Auto, even Wal-Mart, get a relay for a set of fog lights, it costs a whopping $5.

.
Click to expand...


What he says....

Autozone has 'em.
Radioshack has 'em too.

Radioshack is over-priced......just what you'd expect!
 
Horn

Horn

Steve said:
Only drawback is that in its basic simplicity, it will allow the horn to be sounded even with the key off.

.
Click to expand...

That comes in handy when you're sitting in one spot trying to pick up chicks!:D

When I had my GS750, the horn sounded terrible...if you could hear it. Instead of having the button complete the ground, I switched the polarity around and wired the positive from the button directly to the battery. It just took a few minutes and was really loud!:eek:
 
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chuckycheese said:
Instead of having the button complete the ground, I switched the polarity around and wired the positive from the button directly to the battery.
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Just how did you accomplish that? :-k

There is no "positive" at the button that can be re-routed. The wire comes from the horn to the button, then gets shorted to the handlebar, which is grounded.
shrug2.gif


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It's been a while!

It's been a while!

Steve said:
Just how did you accomplish that? :-k

There is no "positive" at the button that can be re-routed. The wire comes from the horn to the button, then gets shorted to the handlebar, which is grounded.
shrug2.gif


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OK....I don't have the bike to look at (sold 'er) and it's been a number of years, so I looked in the archives and found my post from June 16, 2006: (If I described it incorrectly on that post, at least maybe you can figure out what I did do.;))



Like many of you, my horn has never been much good for anything, which I've always found frustrating. I found a very easy way to fix it that I've never read about on the forum.

Disconnect the positive wire from the horn.

There are two negative wires coming from the horn switch. One of them goes directly to the horn (mine's green); leave it alone. Cut the other one (mine's black/white) right above the plug and wire it to a hot source using an inline 10 amp fuse. (I connected mine to the battery.)

Ground the terminal on the horn that used to have the positive wire attched to it.

The whole process only takes a few minutes and will cost about a dollar, or so. By doing this, you isolate the horn and make the horn button positive rather than negative (you can just as easily do it another way and leave it negative but I think the way I did it is a little bit better idea).

Ohhhhh, one more thing....push the horn button...You'll be AMAZED!!!\\:D/
__________________
1980 GS1100E....Number 15!:)
 
Or...there's always that "other" kind of horn.

 
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OK, evidently the button does not short to the handlebar, but to a separate ground wire. :-k

In that case, it makes sense, but you are still running a LOT of current through the horns switch when you push the button.

Using a relay will fix that and provide full current to the horns.

.
 
Oh, yeah!!!

Oh, yeah!!!

Steve said:
OK, evidently the button does not short to the handlebar, but to a separate ground wire. :-k

In that case, it makes sense, but you are still running a LOT of current through the horns switch when you push the button. .

.
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Good!! I didn't use it often but, when I did, it was really loud and it made me really happy (and, sometimes safer)! That's what a horn should do....and it did!!!!!
 
I agree with Steve; a button or a switch should be an actuator, not a current provider. Contacts tend to burn over time. I had to disassemble and fix the starter button on an 81 KZ750 I had; it was a PITA. Fortunately I knew how they were designed from prior experience, so I was careful not to lose the spring or other tiny parts.
 
koolaid_kid said:
I agree with Steve; a button or a switch should be an actuator, not a current provider. Contacts tend to burn over time..
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How many lifetimes would you have to live before you'd blow your horn enough times before you'd be sorry you did it the way I did it???:dancing:
 
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