How do these readings look?

[renorealtors]

I have been on the general discussion forum and figured this forum would be the best place for this question. I am having trouble with my New to me 83 GS750ED pictured in my Avitar. Here are the readings from the Quick Test listed somewhere on the site. Thank you in advance. John

 

[Nessism]

It's not charging (obviously). Most likely the stator but often times the stator dies because crappy stock shunt R/R dumps current back to the stator where it's turned into heat and damages the insulation (leading to failure.) If this is a bike you plan to keep around for a while and ride I strongly advise a new stator and SH775 R/R (which will protect the stator.) Wire per instructions here bypassing the factory wiring harness, other than for the + out going to the stock position in the harness.

 

[Brendan W]

One thing you could do is see if the stator is putting out anything.
Disconnect the three stator phase wires from the rectifier.
Start the bike and see if you are getting 80V ac or thereabouts between each pair of wires at 5000 rpm. A to B, A to C and B to C.
Check that there is no continuity between any pair of phase wires and between any phase wire and the case, ground.
If it passes these tests you have a reasonable chance that the stator has survived.

 

[renorealtors]

Getting 86v @500rpm all three wires. Just did the continuity test between all 3 wires and they all have continuity?? no continuity wires to case. Here is the results from earlier using the Fault Finding Chart. I found the neg wire to the battery suspect so I ran a new one and it now puts out 13.40v at 2500 and 5000rpm? Is that enough to go with for now or would you get a new r/r and stator??


Here are the results. the negitive lead voltage drop reading was .30v and the max allowable was.25v so I ran a new wire from the neg wire on the r/r to the neg post on the battery. I thought I had it fixed and the voltage did go up at 2500rpm to 13.25 form 12.40 but just shy of where it should be 13.50v but @5000rpm it is only reading 13.12v not close to 14.0/15.50v. Now what do I do from here?

 

[renorealtors]

Where would one look for a SH775 R/R???

 

[Steve]

Looks like just one available on eBay at the moment.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Seadoo-GTX...40d3cb8:g:xX4AAOSw7e9dR2CB&LH_ItemCondition=4

Yes, it's used, but there are VERY few failures on them.

.

 

[renorealtors]

From the looks of it I need to wire it custom? If after running my motor for 10 min and my pattery voltage is @13.6 is my system not charging enough?? I will take the advice of swaping out the R/R with SH775 R/R to save my stator but since I have continuity between the stator wires isn't it bad also?? or am I suposed to have continuity between the 3 yellow wires coming from the sator?? Thanks again John

 

[Nessism]

Hook up the SH775 like shown here. Don't be tempted to wiring it into the old harness because harness failure is common and when it happens it can cause overheat damage.
Oh, and I've got a few SH775's for sale. Check the parts for sale forum if interested.

SH775 Install by nessism, on Flickr

 

[Wingsconsin]

Just my experience recently

Just my experience recently

I have a 1983 GS850GL -
It was giving me problems -ones I could not understand as all my electrical stuff is less 2 years old except the sh775 from 4 years ago

Copied from a different thread --

my on-board Voltmeter -
It is run via a relay connected to the acces terminals ; then through a direct to hot with an inline fuse (5 amp)
I mounted it in a project box ; and drilled holes through the back of the box spaced with the handlebars bolts -
I added a few spacers to squeeze the handlebars and a metal backer plate to the box -
It reads within .02 of my handheld voltmeter --

However my story gets weirder --

On Kaizen (my 1983 GS850GL modified) -- I have a NEW Electrosport Stator 2017
A NEW sh775 R&R (installed) --
New Coils - Plug wires - Plugs -
Correctly operating electrical circuits as far as I can tell -
a NEW volt meter display running off a relay and through a fuse
NO extra wires attached to the battery post -

When I check the volt meter display on board against my hand held meter it is the SAME reading when not running, when idling and at 5000 RPM's --
It fluctuates at the no load 5000RPMs reading from 12.9 to 13.9 and sometimes 14.0-14.1 - kinda up & down not steady -- but it IS charging some I believe.

Now for the maddening part --
Last Friday I went out for a ride (450 miles total)
the bike was on a battery maintainer for the previous few days -
She started right up and idled fine - and ran fine all day delivering MPGs from 40 to 45 - so I feel like she is running well enough
While riding I kinda watch the indicators - especially the Voltmeter -
And for much of the first 144 miles (first tank) it was showing 13.7 to 13.9 -

Then tank 2 it started showing 12.7- 13.3 -- still charging but why the change ?
Then later during tank 3 it was showing 12.1 to 12.5 -- not really charging at all ?
After a short break and another tank of fuel stop it then was reading 13.1 to 13.3 most of the time with an occasional drop to the mid- 12s again.

I returned home and started investigating
After much trouble shooting with Steve via email -- (excerpts from emails)


here is what I found tonight
Volts at battery from sitting with no maintainer 12.5 shown on voltmeter - handheld
Turn on bike for 30 seconds and re-measure -
11.9 on voltmeter handheld 11.8 on bike mounted volt display (through a relay)
After 1 minute is was down to 11.7 and held there

At stator wires
I did all three pairs for ohms I think -- .06 at each leg

Bike running --
At 5000 rpms -
Each pair showed 67 VAC consistently
When the stator was reconnected the hand held vm showed 12.9 vdc at 5000 RPMs and the on bike VM showed 12.8


I called Electrosport for more clarification (on warranty as well - Stator is from June 2017)

Per conversation with Electrosport --
My stator is only 2 years and 2 months old and I feel that is not great service.
After talking to him about the test numbers he said the 67 vac at 5000 RPMs is the expected number for the E/S stator on that bike.
He also felt the while my battery isn't new great - that it should be okay with the voltage and numbers drop I had.
Further he thinks the R & R is the culprit as it doesn't work as efficiently when hot - a longer ride seems to exacerbates the problem.
he has emailed me a 'diode test' to conduct on my R & R (awesome learning going on here now)
He also recommended I conduct the 3 leg stator test when it's hot to see if it changes from the 66-67 vac I was seeing.

Steve was pointing me toward the battery -- But that was also NEW in June 2017 and showed 12.5 when resting (not 12.8 but not terrible either --

But I had it Load tested and it FAILED - While removing the battery I found the Positive lead was about 1/2 turn loose :topsy_turvy:
So I sourced a GOOD NEW AGM and placed it into Kaizen-
That SEEMS to have fixed it --
On a 25 mile ride the volts were always at 14.0 at 5000 RPMs
And 13.7 at 3500 RPMs --

My next step is to find a day for a good long ride and get it HOT --
But the electrical system on these bikes can be a real challenge

That ride was accomplished last week - the Volts were consistently around 13.7 - 14.0 from 2500 RPMs and up?

THE POINT IS --
Have the battery tested and that may be one source of the problems and it's easy and cheap to have it tested at Batterys Plus or some place like that

 

[renorealtors]

Interesting this charging system is MMMMMMMMMMMM said Yoda! Thanks for the read. I have a hand held battery tester and it reads good. I am charging now since I ran a direct negative to the R/R but I am going to replace the R/R as a precaution. Nessism How to I go about buying your R/R listed on the For Sale Site?? Never done that before??

 

[Nessism]

Interesting this charging system is MMMMMMMMMMMM said Yoda! Thanks for the read. I have a hand held battery tester and it reads good. I am charging now since I ran a direct negative to the R/R but I am going to replace the R/R as a precaution. Nessism How to I go about buying your R/R listed on the For Sale Site?? Never done that before??

I sent you a private message yesterday. Look in the upper RH side of the screen here and look for the Notification.

 

[Brendan W]

Getting 86v @500rpm all three wires. Just did the continuity test between all 3 wires and they all have continuity?? no continuity wires to case. Here is the results from earlier using the Fault Finding Chart. I found the neg wire to the battery suspect so I ran a new one and it now puts out 13.40v at 2500 and 5000rpm? Is that enough to go with for now or would you get a new r/r and stator??


Here are the results. the negitive lead voltage drop reading was .30v and the max allowable was.25v so I ran a new wire from the neg wire on the r/r to the neg post on the battery. I thought I had it fixed and the voltage did go up at 2500rpm to 13.25 form 12.40 but just shy of where it should be 13.50v but @5000rpm it is only reading 13.12v not close to 14.0/15.50v. Now what do I do from here?

My fault. Brain was elsewhere. Should have said check that there is continuity between stator pairs but not to the case.
The generator is star wound with a common end point for all three phases.

 

[wymple]

Getting 86v @500rpm all three wires. Just did the continuity test between all 3 wires and they all have continuity?? no continuity wires to case. Here is the results from earlier using the Fault Finding Chart. I found the neg wire to the battery suspect so I ran a new one and it now puts out 13.40v at 2500 and 5000rpm? Is that enough to go with for now or would you get a new r/r and stator??


Here are the results. the negitive lead voltage drop reading was .30v and the max allowable was.25v so I ran a new wire from the neg wire on the r/r to the neg post on the battery. I thought I had it fixed and the voltage did go up at 2500rpm to 13.25 form 12.40 but just shy of where it should be 13.50v but @5000rpm it is only reading 13.12v not close to 14.0/15.50v. Now what do I do from here?

ran 13.2 to 13.4 for 4 years before mine gave it up. I put in a 35 dollar stator from fleabay and a used GENUINE R/R SH775 and get 14.4V now. Wire the stator directly to the R/R, 3 wires, add the ground wire, a good one ( I used 12 gauge) and the hot wire, (also 12 gauge) to the hot post on the solenoid. I just did the same to my BIL's 1100 with the same results. Very simple fix, never spent 100 bucks total. You might pick up the other volt you need just by sending your stator directly to the R/R