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New Ring Break-in Procedure?

  • Thread starter Thread starter derickson104
  • Start date Start date
D

derickson104

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I've just finished reassembling my '79 GS550, with new rings. I've heard a pile of reports but nothing seems consistent. Does anyone know of a proper break-in procedure for a new set of rings on this bike, or for any 4-cylinder for that matter?
 
Just ride it assertively around town and it will be fine. No need for some elaborate break in procedure. Worst thing is to baby it.
 
Beat on it like a red headed step child, ride it like you stole it, after about 3 good heat cycles, cool it to cold, re-torque the head, check the valve adjustment, change the oil & filter, & then go ride the snot out of it! Ray.
 
Would that method apply if you honed the cylinders in your backyard with Sears honing stones, a cordless drill and used cast rings?
I used this method when I was breaking in the Ford 351w I built for my boat; but I had professional hone done to that block, moly rings, and very nice machine work throughout.
 
No matter how it was done, the rings need to seat, they need to be under pressure.
Open the throttle.
 
You need to be on the throttle or completely off the throttle. No in between. I've just run my 550 in, and you need good combustion in the cylinders to force the rings out against the bore. I've been told that it's not the spring in the rings that keeps them against the bore but the combustion pressure that gets behind the rings and forces them against the cylinder walls. And this can't happen if you are puttering along. Like I said full ON or full OFF. Shutting the throttle completely draws extra oil into the cylinders to lubricate the new rings.

I now have 1,500 miles on my new motor and not a whisp of smoke from the exhaust.

My2c
 
tkent02 said:
No matter how it was done, the rings need to seat, they need to be under pressure.
Open the throttle.
Click to expand...
I buy the fast break in method - I've used it.
I just can't help but to think that the easy break-in method is rooted in something. I'm sure engineers of yesteryear understood ring tensions and pressure.
 
Tom R said:
I buy the fast break in method - I've used it.
I just can't help but to think that the easy break-in method is rooted in something. I'm sure engineers of yesteryear understood ring tensions and pressure.
Click to expand...

Might be related to liability associated with telling a new bike owner they need to use a lot of throttle from the first ride.:eek:
 
Tom R said:
I just can't help but to think that the easy break-in method is rooted in something. I'm sure engineers of yesteryear understood ring tensions and pressure.
Click to expand...

I think it's rooted in old manufacturing processes. The reason to take it easy on the motor had nothing to do with seating rings, but to give the system a chance to gradually filter out metal shavings that might be left behind from the machining processes before you put on too much stress and caused excessive bearing damage.
 
Yeah, I agree with the high-rpm method.

I can't believe how many people still recommend the old way.


I think it's just about liability.....because honestly, no manufacturer is going to actually "recommend" flooring it, or driving hard. If someone gets in an accident, or ends up taking it too far and blowing the motor, their going to point back to the Manual!(which of course clearly advocates the high-rpm method)

Imagine the results...in this stupid "sue-happy" country.:rolleyes:
 
Theres more to the bike than just the rings...

I think historically you need to consider tight big ends and crank bearings of the plain journal sort, Valve seats, guides all the other bearings , chains and such, and all manner of fastners which may or not be tight from the factory. Time was these things were purposfully made tight to wear in to the correct clearance, as manufacturing tolerances simply wernt as good.

I think to some extent today manufactures gently does it is a whole bike appoach not just the rings. whole bike would include lawyers no doubt, but that would not be the only factor, as most manuals have disclaimers etc Most modern motors are factory run after assembly, so rings would be bedded already.


Thats new bikes of course, rebuild could be a different story.



John
 
Back in 81 i had a new Z1000j1 it used to go threw a litre of oil in 100miles ,this was
sorted under warrenty kawasaki sent new set of pistons and rings to the dealer work was carried out got bike back "told to run it carefully".
big mistake it started drinking even more oil took it back they wouldnt refused to sort it out,but i did a bit more homework i was told i should had rung its neck and showed no mercey,with it ooh well live and learn i suppose.
cant win can yer?.
 
gshub said:
Back in 81 i had a new Z1000j1 it used to go threw a litre of oil in 100miles ,this was
sorted under warrenty kawasaki sent new set of pistons and rings to the dealer work was carried out got bike back "told to run it carefully".
big mistake it started drinking even more oil took it back they wouldnt refused to sort it out,but i did a bit more homework i was told i should had rung its neck and showed no mercey,with it ooh well live and learn i suppose.
cant win can yer?.
Click to expand...

Sorry you had these problems but I don't believe it was related to the break in method. Simple fact is something like 15 million cars are sold every year in the US alone and 99.9% of them are broken in without any regard to special procedures yet the rings seal up just fine. Just drive the stupid thing in a half way reasonable fashion and all will be fine; vary the rpm, use some throttle, and stop worrying.:p
 
Perfect, thanks for the info. As a matter of fact, it turns out to be exactly what I wanted to hear - who could resist opening the throttle on a newly rebuilt, warmed bike.
 
Ride it like you stole 'Or you can do this
What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !​

Why ??
Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.

If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ...
How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of
PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of combustion pressure ??
Of course it can't.

How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ??​
From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle !!!), then the entire ring will wear into
the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.



The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.

There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !! ​
If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.

Fortunately, most new sportbike owners can't resist the urge to "open it up" once or twice,
which is why more engines don't have this problem !!

An additional factor that you may not have realized, is that the person at the dealership who set up your bike probably blasted your brand new bike pretty hard on the "test run". So, without realizing it, that adrenaline crazed set - up mechanic actually did you a huge favor !!​
I also have a good friend who is an engine builder ,and I had him bore acyl block for me and fit the pistons, when he gave me the parts he told me to put it together dry , no oil in cylinders, and run it hard for the first 20-30 miles, it wasn't hard to do because it was my race bike, so after about 20min. on a open practice she was broke in nicely
 
I also bought my 83 gs 750E new at the very knowledgeable age of 19 and the day I bought it I told the dealer it better do what it said on the speedometer or they were getting it back. They told me I would void the warranty, I say F*,^# the warranty and away I went didn't see the 140 but did see the speedo reading 127-132 for about 10 miles on the highway, I figured it still needed braking in so I kept it and still have it today ,still runs great and burns no oil . So don't be scared ride it like you will always ride it.
 
Should you use convensional motor oil during the breakin period rather than synthetic?

Brian
 
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