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Oh poop

Have you checked it ?? I would bet the cam timing slipped !!!!
 
Unfortunately I can't get it to turn far enough to check the cam timing. but I think it's highly unlikely that the chain jumped, when it went from no problem the night before last, to how it is now.

tomorrows project is to remove the case saver and get that cover off.

it may take a little while but I'll find out the root cause of it.
 
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Dale,
One thing you could do is remove the cams and then hold up the cam chain with your hand and try to turn the engine over. That would tell you once and for all if the blockage is related to the top end or bottom. One challenge with doing this is you need to get access to the cam chain tensioner, which may require removing the carbs. Never hurts to go though the carbs and freshen the O-rings so this may be your excuse now if you haven't already done it.:)
 
Nessism said:
Dale,
One thing you could do is remove the cams and then hold up the cam chain with your hand and try to turn the engine over. That would tell you once and for all if the blockage is related to the top end or bottom. One challenge with doing this is you need to get access to the cam chain tensioner, which may require removing the carbs. Never hurts to go though the carbs and freshen the O-rings so this may be your excuse now if you haven't already done it.:)
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Ed, http://s32.photobucket.com/albums/d44/rustybronco/?action=view&current=PICT2324.jpg&newest=1 :D (the very first thing I did.)

I've ran this thing through my head so many times, trying to think it through and the only thing that makes sense is valve to piston interference.

when I was shimming the valves I had to put up to a .2mm thinner shim and with 33K+ miles on it, most likely it never had the valves adjusted. so I think it is best to just go ahead and remove it, check the valves and replace the seals.

heck, maybe I can pretty up the head like yours while I'm there. ;)
 
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rustybronco said:
Ed, http://s32.photobucket.com/albums/d44/rustybronco/?action=view&current=PICT2324.jpg&newest=1 :D (the very first thing I did.)

I've ran this thing through my head so many times, trying to think it through and the only thing that makes sense is valve to piston interference.

when I was shimming the valves I had to put up to a .2mm thinner shim and with 33K+ miles on it, most likely it never had the valves adjusted. so I think it is best to just go ahead and remove it, check the valves and replace the seals.

heck, maybe I can pretty up the head like yours while I'm there. ;)
Click to expand...

Seems strange that the engine turned over before but won't now. Did you check the cam timing, although I can't imagine how it could be off. If the valves are closing, and the timing is okay, the valves can't be hitting the pistons.
 
didnt happen to hit the shifter lever and the tranny is 'IN BETWEEN" gears and hanging up once in a while??????? sometimes when riding and shifting my shadow if i dont really slapm it into gear it will be like its in btween gears so to speak..i just jiggle it again and it shifts up and engages properly..just throwing that out there...
 
Nessism said:
Seems strange that the engine turned over before but won't now. Did you check the cam timing, although I can't imagine how it could be off. If the valves are closing, and the timing is okay, the valves can't be hitting the pistons.
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That's what stinks, it won't turn far enough to check the timing. I have to remove the cams to jerk the head anyway so that will give some insight.
 
rustybronco said:
That's what stinks, it won't turn far enough to check the timing. I have to remove the cams to jerk the head anyway so that will give some insight.
Click to expand...

I'd pull the cams and then check free rotation before going after the head. You'll have to pull the cams but you have to do that anyway.
 
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Nessism said:
I'd pull the cams and then check free rotation before going after the head. You'll have to pull the carbs but you have to do that anyway.
Click to expand...

Indeed, if removing the cams is a step in head removal, it's quite logical to test it in the method Nessism recommends. I totally understand the desire to rip into your engine, I had to have posplayr and a few others talk me out of a complete engine tear down to chase what's most likely a bum clutch hub. Breaking major engine seals (head gasket, case seals) seems to become quite expensive, rather quickly. That's money you could be spending on go-fast bits!
 
Chuck, I didn't even get that far as of yet. I've got to work within the limitation of my back and it's telling me to back off for a while. bending over kills me you know...
 
you just give me the nod and i am in the truck and on my way. like i can head out right now!!!
 
Turtleface, It's no big deal to pull the head. 30 year old seals, possible valve damage and the lite coat of oil on the Number 2 & 3 pistons is telling me it's only a matter of time. (you pays me now or you pays me later kind of thing)

lot's of thing to consider.
 
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Dale...heading out to the garage..got the new rubber on those nice spokers for the 77 i had showed you gonna change all the hardware and mount them on the bike.. You dont hesitate to call me if you wanna hand and you know i will be right there..just call if you decide..CHuck.
 
Rear tensioner?

Rear tensioner?

My vote's for the rear tensioner blade coming adrift, possibly the source of the "carbon squishing" sound.:confused::)
 
chef1366 said:
That's a good one. That could be why it did do a complete 360 a couple of times.
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I haven't closely inspected the rear chain guide yet, but appears to be quite intact. forgoing the head removal, the only thing left to do is remove the exhaust camshaft.
 
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