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Rectifier/Regulator replacement list

  • Thread starter Thread starter Matchless
  • Start date Start date
Eastern Beaver has a $20 minimum order (STATES THIS ON HIS SITE) so yea, the shipping charges will look outrageous until you get above that and then settles down.
 
Yes another thumbs up for Jim at Eastern Beaver... :)

I agree he could have picked his name a little better but then again maybe that's the whole point... probably a grad school "in joke".

128784298157043127.jpg
 
Normk said:
Did you take any photos of the autopsy?

Your mention of corrosion under the potting compound was surprising from both a failure cause and obvious if one had considered the possibility, which I had not.:o
Click to expand...

Normk,
Here is a photo of the internals. I have already scraped off most of the white corrosion unfortunately.
attachment.php


I assume the potting compound used 30 years ago was not as advanced as what is available now. I have tried to disect a ZX12 regulator, but neither heat or any solvent has any affect on it. Its just like concrete.
 
salty_monk said:
Yes another thumbs up for Jim at Eastern Beaver... :)

I agree he could have picked his name a little better but then again maybe that's the whole point... probably a grad school "in joke".

128784298157043127.jpg
Click to expand...
When I lived in the Rio Grande Valley I sponsored a softball team for years. I named the team the Beavers and our slogan was "Fear the Beaver". I had no trouble getting the best players in the league to play for my team. After that another bunch of guys I played for on another night named their team the Red Snappers.
 
Interesting photos, Matchless!

A sample of one is almost meaningless in so far as forming any rational conclusion but the implications certainly are attention grabbing! Thanks very much for posting the photos.

My impression of South Africa is that the climate is quite dry with lower corrosion than in most of Europe or Canada/USA. Would this be correct?

I don't thiink anywhere above the tide line is drier or less corrosive than a UK road so the possibility that corrosives could be leaking into VRR units there is more than attention grabbing! ST1100 owners will be familiar with the UK corrosion of swing arms, alternators, etc. so this effect is to be expected in other areas.

How can we obtain more data? A simple request for people to do a post mortem on VRR units when the opportunity arises will take a long time to provide data but it's the best suggestion. I will be spraying mine and all others which I encounter with a sealer such as a wax based, LPS or Fluid Film in the hopes that there may be some benefit to sealing.
 
Normk said:
My impression of South Africa is that the climate is quite dry with lower corrosion than in most of Europe or Canada/USA. Would this be correct?
Click to expand...

You are correct, but corrosion still happens here as well, as we have some wetter areas and 30 years is a long time! Fortunately we do not have roads covered in salt during winter and snow is quite scarce as well.

As the photos show, the parts that were enclosed in the potting compound showed no signs of similar corrosion.
I have a few more faulty ones in a box and if I am bored one day I will open another of the same vintage.:)
 
First post

First post

I just got my 1983 GS750 running and I would say this forum is really helpful. After reading all the post about rectifier.regulator I feel all is well covered.

I would like to add that a R/R from a 2002 GSXR600 will work on these bike. I bought mine from someone who crashed his bike so I know its in working condition. Wiring is pretty straight forward with the 3 black solid wire to the 3 stator wires and the blk/wht to ground and blk/red to positive. The reading from my voltmeter is 12.68 at idle to 13.7 to 14.2 at almost full sing. I cant post the RPM reading since the tachometer is shot. The R/R is 2x as big as the original R/R so I was forced to put it behind the battery between the inner fender. The heat coming from the unit is not significant even with almost 20 mins of idling. I dont know how hot it will get on real driving.

Hope this help to all those who are also trying to find a suitable R/R.

By the way, when I got my bike the CDI was out including the headlight, taillight etc. Guess it got burned because of the faulty R/R which was putting out almost 14.7 at idle and up to 16v on throttle. Watch out!!!:):)
 
rainman73 said "By the way, when I got my bike the CDI was out including the headlight, taillight etc. Guess it got burned because of the faulty R/R which was putting out almost 14.7 at idle and up to 16v on throttle. Watch out"


Mr. pmong (in electrical forum) could have used this info a few days back! Anyways, don't get confident- check all your connections especially between R/R and battery and grounds to ensure they are secure. Follow the link to Basscliff's site for info overload- or just wait till he discovers you!
 
For those looking for an FET on the cheap, search ebay using the terms "honda forman regulator"...

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw...arts_Accessories&_fscr=1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m19

I believe these are Shindengen FH-009 FET units as previously discussed. They can be easily found for around $30 shipped. I believe they have plenty of capacity for our GS charging systems, and are much cheaper than some of the other FH model units. The extra spade terminal in the output side terminal is NOT a sense wire connection (I verified). Not sure what it is though. I've installed a couple of these now and just left that terminal open.

Andre, please forgive me for making this suggestion but you might want to boil down your thread to make it easier for people to navigate. I'd go so far as to recommend people search out these Forman R/R's since they are robust and cheap. Choice is yours of course since it's your thread though.

I love finding cheap, but quality, solutions to the various GS issues.

Keep going...
 
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Thanks for the remind Ed.A freind got me one for my 85 750.With your help it's been happily regulating away:)Going to need one for the 1000.
 
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I found an R/R from an '83 GL1100 on ebay. From what
I can tell on the list it is compatible, can anyone confirm?
 
Just found one of these on ebay
Honda TRX300, Fourtrax300 88-92 Shindengen SH532B-12 12V 35 Amps rating

I have an '81 gs550 will this work?
 
1980c10 said:
Just found one of these on ebay
Honda TRX300, Fourtrax300 88-92 Shindengen SH532B-12 12V 35 Amps rating

I have an '81 gs550 will this work?
Click to expand...
Most likely, can you see from pic that it has 3 yellow wires, plus at least 3 other wires, like green, red, and a black or brown? The "B" after "SH532" must be a revision.
 
Scratch that lol. I ended up buying a fh-012aa MOSFET style from a newer r1.
 
I have a question for you folks.........I have a 82 1100EZ, just put in a new o.e.m wireing harness, I have a new Rick's stator to install & a new Rick's R/R going in as well! All the ground connections are good! How long will this last?? What should I watch out for?
Thanks
 
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