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Solid State Power Box

Do you have any more pics of the unit that is made to fit the newer style fuse box. I assume the aluminum is a large heat sink.

I would need to see pics of the backside as the aluminum base looks too large for my situation. I have the same fuse box but it has no tabs only clips that allow it to flush mount to the plastic battery box.

I have the Compufire R/R installed and this forced me to relocate my fuse box to the top side of my battery underneath the seat. It is now held in place with a zip-tie floating loosely in a not very ideal arrangement. I also have my Compufire secured with velcro and a zip-tie.
 
JEEPRUSTY said:
Do you have any more pics of the unit that is made to fit the newer style fuse box. I assume the aluminum is a large heat sink.

I would need to see pics of the backside as the aluminum base looks too large for my situation. I have the same fuse box but it has no tabs only clips that allow it to flush mount to the plastic battery box.

I have the Compufire R/R installed and this forced me to relocate my fuse box to the top side of my battery underneath the seat. It is now held in place with a zip-tie floating loosely in a not very ideal arrangement. I also have my Compufire secured with velcro and a zip-tie.
Click to expand...

The heat sink is in the pic. I added an additional one at the end. Not sure of what your space limitations are but maybe I could fab a different base.

As i posted, you could allow it to float as it should only dissipate 5W.
 
Here are the 3 mounting options;

  1. Diagonal tabs
  2. Symmetrical tabs
  3. Tabless


I also added another option for tabless mounting where you have to drill through your mounting plate and screw in from the back.

SSPB_MountingOptions_zps763b3efb.jpg
 
Looks like I'll need to put away some tax refund money next spring. Anything to get rid of the fuses.
 
I'll take one. I assume this allows me to wire in heated grips (switched) & an accessory socket or 2 (unswitched) as well as all the other common mods?

Will join my new battery... The Scorpion AGM I had for about 4 yrs just crapped out. Looks like it just didn't want to move house with me!

:)
 
salty_monk said:
I'll take one. I assume this allows me to wire in heated grips (switched) & an accessory socket or 2 (unswitched) as well as all the other common mods?

Will join my new battery... The Scorpion AGM I had for about 4 yrs just crapped out. Looks like it just didn't want to move house with me!

:)
Click to expand...

Yes you will have 5 circuits.

PROTECTED SIGNAL (10A)
PROTECTED HEADLAMP (10A)
PROTECTED IGNITION (10A)
PROTECTED SWITCHED ACC (10A)
PROTECTED UNSWITCHED/BATTERY (6A).

Total 20A

Unfortunately I have to limit the Unswitched/Battery output (to 6A from 10A) since it could be used for back driving through an accessory socket (i.e. trickle charging). This is a thermal limit so you can exceed that for short periods.

You can still always go direct to the battery or we can up the 6A back to 10A if you don't use the UNSWITCHED/BATTERY to connect to a trickle charger. You would then hook up the trickle charger direct to the battery rather than using a protected accessory plug.

What base are you going to want?


http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1915035&postcount=88
 
Last edited:
Not really thought about accessory socket usage at this point... I would probably use one for a heated vest perhaps but the 10a switched could just about handle my grips and vest (95w combined on full or thereabouts).

The unswitched I use for phone/headset charging on occasion, on my KLR I use the accessory socket (with 10 or 15a fuse from memory) to trickle charge the battery, is there a specific reason you specify 6a?
I don't really mind but I'd like to understand the why :)
 
salty_monk said:
Not really thought about accessory socket usage at this point... I would probably use one for a heated vest perhaps but the 10a switched could just about handle my grips and vest (95w combined on full or thereabouts).

The unswitched I use for phone/headset charging on occasion, on my KLR I use the accessory socket (with 10 or 15a fuse from memory) to trickle charge the battery, is there a specific reason you specify 6a?
I don't really mind but I'd like to understand the why :)
Click to expand...

Dan,
I don't have a definitive answer for you . The primary smart FET parts I'm using are from the same manufacturer and are functionally and performance wise nearly identical. One part is from 1 channel of unswitched, the other is 4 channels of switched. Back driving the FET like when trickle charging from the accessory plug is different from forward because the internal protection for current limiting and thermal overload don't work. The limits for the switched part is 15a per channel. For some reason the unswitched part is only 6amps. At least that is what the data sheet says. Even if it is only 6amps while the others are 15 amps this is a thermal limit so it is really not a struck amperage limit but move current and time dependent. So I am investigating his and plant to test before picking a poly fuse to limit how much current you can back drive from a trickle charger. Unfortunately what ever I pick will also limit the forward gurrent even though the the part fully protects itself in that direction.

You should be able to safely wire in at least two different power sockets and run accessories and trickle charger at the same time. The limit ( whether 6amps or something higher) is on how much current goes to or comes from the battery on that circuit. Also keep in mind there should never be more than about 4 amps charging current for a 14ahr battery and trickle charging is probable lay only 1-2 amps.

More on this later after more investigation.

The total power draw on a stock gs is about 11 amp which excludes 4 amps of charning current. Due to the relatively small physical size of the SSPB I'm limiting the total current to about 20 amps continuous with good safety margin. Five channels of 10 amp continuous output is 50 amps so obviously there is an expectation that not all 5 channels are operating at peak. Other than your gs ignition switch most all of the GS circuits are designed for 10 amps of current.
Given these considerations hook what up any amount of load to the extra switched circuit and turn it on and off manually when you have the rpm s up and you should be fine. There is provision for either a +12v or GND control of that power.
 
isleoman said:
Yes Will it be compatible? I do have an 83 harness and a Shindig (sp) R/R
Click to expand...

The SSPB should be very adaptable to most GS configurations including yours. The OEM connector will have to be removed and another one replace. no wY around that unfortunately. The main constraints are space and whether you want to fit the same foot print. If you already swapped in a spaceship sh775 you probably are squeeee Ed for space so you would either want the standard Ed/EZ fuse box footprint which has diagonal tabs or the other option o free up a little space is to go a tabless and screw in from behind.
 
PCB's will be arriving on Friday and I'll start assembly and test of the first unit early next week.

After doing some test trials on crimping the connector, I will probably fully populate the connectors with pig tails and then everybody can just inter-leave, twist, solder and heat shrink each one. I will be come an expert crimper and nobody else will not have to worry about it.

Corresponding with Joe at Cycleterminal the ECT39 is perfectly fine for crimping the terminal pins.

Economy - Open Barrel Crimp Tool For 14 - 24 AWG

http://www.cycleterminal.com/crimp-tools.html

So unless there is a special request to NOT install the pins I will go ahead and send out the connectors all pre populated. The downside of this is that you will not be able to wire directly from your harness to the connector , you will have to use a splice as it is difficult to get the pins out once installed.
 
That's the crimping tool I started with. Eventually I will get a ratcheting multi-jaw tool.
 
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