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Time for a new clutch

Grimly said:
I've been using semi and full synth for the past decade. Mostly car and diesel oil, with only a couple changes using bike-specific oil, when it was priced right.
Currently using Mannol 10w40 car and diesel synth, which has a Jaso MA rating also.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reassurance. I'll get those clutch discs on order ASAP. I'm missing out on some great riding weather!
 
93Bandit said:
OEM clutch plates are very expensive, so searching the GSR I see mention of EBC plates being just as good as OEM and cheaper. I plan to get EBC friction plates, but my question is whether or not I should replace the steel plates as well?
Click to expand...

The only time I have replaced the steel plates is when they warp. I pull the pack, clean the steels and squeeze them all together with my hands. When I hold them up to the light, if I see any gaps then I replace the bad ones. I wouldn't think you would ever see something like this.

Brand wise, I tried a few different ones but pretty much stuck with OEM.
 
Always heard lay plates on a sheet of glass, to check for warpage, I guess glass is always supposed to be flat.
 
rphillips said:
Always heard lay plates on a sheet of glass, to check for warpage, I guess glass is always supposed to be flat.
Click to expand...

That's what the factory manual says to do. I've seen glass with waves so I thought it was interesting they specify a pane of glass. I didn't bother, I held them together like what was previously suggested and didn't see anything obvious.

I tightened the hub nut yesterday, and ordered clutch frictions. The EBCs were out of stock everywhere I looked, but lucked out and found 1 set on ebay and ordered it. $69 with free shipping so that's a fair price compared to OEM. Hopefully they will solve my clutch issue.
 
Wondering did you have any trouble getting the torque right on that hub nut, and what did you do with the locking washer?.... Sorry, I'm just nosey.
 
93Bandit said:
That's what the factory manual says to do. I've seen glass with waves so I thought it was interesting they specify a pane of glass. I didn't bother, I held them together like what was previously suggested and didn't see anything obvious.

I tightened the hub nut yesterday, and ordered clutch frictions. The EBCs were out of stock everywhere I looked, but lucked out and found 1 set on ebay and ordered it. $69 with free shipping so that's a fair price compared to OEM. Hopefully they will solve my clutch issue.
Click to expand...

https://www.pilkington.com/en/globa...echnology/the-float-process/the-float-process

squeezing the plates would take up warpage and conceal it.
in a manner similar to the need to dress lumber in a joiner.
Proper measure is on glass or a machined flat surface resting not fired flat.
or in a stack forces to conform to multiple plates of varying thickness and flatness.
 
At least with my application, its hardly worth getting the profilometer out. It's easy enough to see a warp when comparing the plates with one another. Typically I've seen the problem with the back plates as that's where the heat builds up. More common, we see the friction plates substrate crack. But again, I doubt this would ever be a problem with a street bike unless the owner was neglecting the bike.
 
rphillips said:
Wondering did you have any trouble getting the torque right on that hub nut, and what did you do with the locking washer?.... Sorry, I'm just nosey.
Click to expand...

You're not being nosey at all. Nope, I did not have trouble torqueing the hub nut. I just put the bike in 5th gear and held the rear brake as I tightened the nut. OEM manual only specs 35-50ft*lbs so not that much torque required. I opted to go to 50ft lbs and I bent the washer in 2 places. That was a bit tricky, I didn't really have the right punch to fold the washer so it looks kinda crappy but I think it's sufficient.


Here's the poor bike with the valve cover off and clutch cover off. Threw some rags over it to keep the dirt/dust out while I wait for parts to arrive. Also, we're taking a family trip out of state all next week, so convenient time to order parts. They'll be waiting for me when I get home.

 
I just put the bike in 5th gear and held the rear brake as I tightened the nut.
Click to expand...

This is where saving the old steels comes in handy. I welded five or so together and welded a socket to them.
 
Just to mention what's worked real good for me., A large pair of Channel Locks, (slip joint plyers), will flatten those washers tight right up against the nut
 
rphillips said:
Just to mention what's worked real good for me., A large pair of Channel Locks, (slip joint plyers), will flatten those washers tight right up against the nut
Click to expand...

Ha, I have a large pair of channel locks. Didn't even think to try them. Thanks for the reminder!
 
Well I'm annoyed. I tore the bike down to get a list of parts to order while my family was out of state over the last week. Figured if I ordered everything before we left town, the parts would likely be delivered by the time we got back. All the order ETA's were scheduled before we got back, so figured I'd be able to slap it all back together this today (first day back home) and be able to enjoy the riding weather this week. Guess not! Clutch discs haven't even shipped yet with no ETA in sight. When I ordered the clutch dics, they were out of stock everywhere except one ebay seller who had 1 set left. I messaged the seller last week asking for a new ETA, no reply. Found an EBC set on a different site and order it. Cancled ebay order. I'm annoyed, but ETA on this order is Thursday so maybe I can have it all together by the weekend. Ugh.
 
Sorry man, feeling your disappointment. I remember when we could usually count on what we were told on this kind of things, I have no clue why, but it seems as technology gets better and better, this kind of stuff happens way more often than before... Good luck.
 
The EBC clutch parts showed up along with the others I was still waiting on.

Slapped the clutch together and as I was torqueing the clutch spring bolts, one snapped in half. Ugh... Took all apart, drilled it out. Got a new bolt.

Got it all back together finally and it RIPS. It was definitely the frictions slipping. I don't think the bike has ever pulled this hard since ive owned it.
 
Just out of curiosity, you did take the cover off by the shifter, undo the lock nut, and back off the clutch push rod, before you started all of this? I've seen people not do this, and buy a new clutch for no reason. Just wanted to make sure. You unlock the nut, turn the center screw out (if it's tight, it's holding you clutch open), screw it out, and turn it back in till it touches, no further. This will give you the maximum disengagement, and maximum engagement. Just checking, as I read the whole thread and this wasn't mentioned. ;)
 
Suzukian said:
Just out of curiosity, you did take the cover off by the shifter, undo the lock nut, and back off the clutch push rod, before you started all of this? I've seen people not do this, and buy a new clutch for no reason. Just wanted to make sure. You unlock the nut, turn the center screw out (if it's tight, it's holding you clutch open), screw it out, and turn it back in till it touches, no further. This will give you the maximum disengagement, and maximum engagement. Just checking, as I read the whole thread and this wasn't mentioned. ;)
Click to expand...

I know what you're refering to, but the 850 doesn't have a clutch pushrod coming from the left side of the bike, like a 750 for example. Check the parts diagram on Partsoutlaw to see the exploded view. I wouldn't be able to type a comprehensive description of how the clutch works on an 850.
 
Understood, just read up on that in the manual. Kind of vague as to the adjustment of the lever on the engine. It seems that if you loosen the lever from the spline, you could then feel where it is engaging, and have your "0" zero point, then put the lever back in the proper position. I worked for a Suzuki dealership many years ago (during that era, Parts Manager)) I remember mechanics checking the play by removing the arm, then checking how the spline shaft was positioned against the clutch, and checking the engagement with the lever. Sometimes the lever was moved a couple of grooves. You'll get it sorted, I'm sure. :)
 
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