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voltage loss data

  • Thread starter Thread starter focus frenzy
  • Start date Start date
Steve

Steve

What puzzles me even more with the ballast resistor is that whether or not it can run with it or without, why add cost (i.e. the resistor) when it will not help the bike?

Posplayr
 
BikeCliff website update

BikeCliff website update

Hi guys,

With the help of Mr. oldryder and Mr. Steve, I've added a page to my little BikeCliff website with some information about the ignition coil upgrade mod.

Direct link here.

Great thread. Thank you all for your input. I think I'm going to try this mod on the next Saturday I have free.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
BassCliff said:
Hi guys,

With the help of Mr. oldryder and Mr. Steve, I've added a page to my little BikeCliff website with some information about the ignition coil upgrade mod.

Direct link here.

Great thread. Thank you all for your input. I think I'm going to try this mod on the next Saturday I have free.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
Click to expand...
that's great info!
now, something's telling me you're going to take some pickies of how it's done when you get to trying it out on your bike! :-D
 
Have camera, will wrench

Have camera, will wrench

psyguy said:
that's great info!
now, something's telling me you're going to take some pickies of how it's done when you get to trying it out on your bike! :-D
Click to expand...

Sure, why not? I'll keep you informed. Thanks Mr. psyguy.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
BassCliff said:
Sure, why not? I'll keep you informed. Thanks Mr. psyguy.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
Click to expand...

I just did the mod and took some pics!
did it on the project bike that had enough voltage drop it wouldn't start.

(it has new harness and yes I cleaned the switches but still did not like the drop)

first you need to gather up the needed supplies.
wire, I used 14 gauge and also have a assortment of colors but this can be done with just one color.

connectors. butt, spade and ring are the three type needed I used trick gold plated copper for the connection at the relay as I had it laying around and it looks purdy.

relay. I used a osram mini relay I had salvaged from a bad PDM at work, these are nice and small and rated to 30 amps, more than enough for the job. these also are very reliable, we have some trucks four years old with over 800,000 miles on them and they still have all their original relays.

in-line fuse holder and fuse. i had this cheep one laying around so I used it
I used a capped mini blade fuse holder when I did the mods on my G and prefer to use them.

pic of parts and tools layed out.
techday3-15001.jpg


picture of relay with wires connected and ready to go.

the power lead (fuse holder) connects to terminal 30 on the relay
the output to the coils connects to terminal 87 on the relay and splits into two female spade connectors on the coil end.
the control wire connects to terminal 85 on the relay
the ground relay connects to terninal 86 on the relay
techday3-15002.jpg


you plug the coil wire (yellow) onto the + terminal on each coil and take the orange with white wires that were connected to the coils and crimp them into the butt connector on the control (green) wire.
early coils had the wire permenantly fixed into the coils so you cut them midway down to the harness plug and use butt connectors instead of the female spade connectors.
techday3-15003.jpg


you then connect the power feed wire (with fuse holder) to the + battery terminal and the ground to a good ground spot or the ground terminal of the battery.
I tucked the relay up in the protective comer on the harness that goes to the fuse box.

techday3-15004.jpg


this is a little video clip of the results (this bike has sat for 10 years!)
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v495/leonhogan/?action=view&current=techday3-15005.flv
 
You cant argue with success

You cant argue with success

Congratulations, that looks like it did the trick.
Posplayr
 
Well it looks like you have that problem fixed, now to get the other bugs out of the bike. :shock:

(Referencing the last picture for that comment.) 8-[

.
 
Mr. focus frenzy,

You are an encouragement. I'll be ordering parts for my bike soon (front caliper rebuilt kits, shims, etc). I'll be sure to include the parts for this ignition upgrade. Nice work.

I'm glad we don't have ants that big around here. Running over a few of them with your bike would make quite a mess.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Where does the green wire go in the relay? and why do the orange and white wires from the coils get connected to it. usually im very electric-savvy but for some reason, i cant get my head around this.

do i need that green wire if i do this? cant i just relay the power cable and leave the other two wires connected to the coil?
 
Last edited:
catbed said:
Where does the green wire go in the relay? and why do the orange and white wires from the coils get connected to it. usually im very electric-savvy but for some reason, i cant get my head around this.

do i need that green wire if i do this? cant i just relay the power cable and leave the other two wires connected to the coil?
Click to expand...
It might help to demystify relays just a little bit. All it is, is a remote-control switch.

The orange/white wire used to provide power to the coils. Now you will use that wire to turn on the relay, so you connect it to the green wire, which is connected to terminal 85 or 86. The other terminal (86 or 85) will need to be connected to ground. What this does for the relay is power the coil that pulls the other contacts together.

Now you take your battery power (through a fuse), connect that to terminal 30. Now run a pair of wires from terminal 87 to where the orange/white wire used to be on the coils. This is your new power source for the coils, but it is controlled by the original wire.

.
 
I get the use for all the tools in your picture but the pipe wrench and the angle grinder.
 
Steve said:
It might help to demystify relays just a little bit. All it is, is a remote-control switch.

The orange/white wire used to provide power to the coils. Now you will use that wire to turn on the relay, so you connect it to the green wire, which is connected to terminal 85 or 86. The other terminal (86 or 85) will need to be connected to ground. What this does for the relay is power the coil that pulls the other contacts together.

Now you take your battery power (through a fuse), connect that to terminal 30. Now run a pair of wires from terminal 87 to where the orange/white wire used to be on the coils. This is your new power source for the coils, but it is controlled by the original wire.

.
Click to expand...

so there are still two stock wires connected to the coils. i was confused because i couldnt see the other connections on the coils in the picture.
 
Steve said:
The angle grinder cleans gounding points to assure a good connection. :shock:
The pipe wrench is to make sure the ground screws are tight. 8-[


.
Click to expand...

actualy the grinder was for my toe nails, the next project was trimming my nails.
the pipe wrench was for if the bike failed to start as I could not find where I put my 3lb drillers hammer.

after hooking it up I had checked the spark and it was not a very strong spark, it was a nice shade of blue but was tiny.
both my G with dyna coils and E with accel coils put out fat hot spark.
 
OldRyder....wow, Is there any risk to doing this to a bike that is not seeing the issue at the time...I knwo my bike starter sounds a tad weak but it does start pretty easily thoguh I have not tried it with the newer harness I just installed this last weekend *waiting on other parts*

can anyone post the new updated voltage loss data postmod? Certainly interested to know... but as I see it in here the mod basically provides direct junction from the key on position to the coil instead of it looping through everything as before but since we aren't disconnecting anything in that circuit it just has redundency and is also intern more efficient.

Very interesting and cheap.. my buddy and I are going to go for doing this...GOOD READ!
 
Kcwiro said:
can anyone post the new updated voltage loss data postmod? Certainly interested to know... but as I see it in here the mod basically provides direct junction from the key on position to the coil instead of it looping through everything as before but since we aren't disconnecting anything in that circuit it just has redundency and is also intern more efficient.

Very interesting and cheap.. my buddy and I are going to go for doing this...GOOD READ!
Click to expand...

DOH!!!! ](*,) I was so happy to hear it run after its long slumber I neglected to take the readings.
I will bring home my good meter from work (the one I took the first readings with) and have the new coil supply volts numbers tomorrow by this time.
 
Sweet! Thank you my buddy and I look forward to reading about it ... I stumbled across this thread via a search for 'Grounding' and I found this gem... I was glued to my monitor for like an hour and half just stairing at it:-D.... and reading
 
dear Mr. Frenziedfocus, can you tell me which wire from your kill switch you either tapped into or bridged, as per the shorcut diagram?(#86 on the shortcut from the KZriders website says trigger from kill switch). I see in your pix nicely done that you attached to the positive and negative battery posts(?) where the shortcut says to find the bolt at the starter solenoid and ground to a good frame bolt. Seems to me your method is better. Here's where I'm confused, and it's probably from following 3 different ideas of the same job: you connected the yellow wires to the coils, and that accounts for the third post of a 4 post relay. Then, you took the old leads from the coils and attached them both into your green wire, which makes 4 (1 for power, 2 for ground, etc.). So, did you just do that instead of going to the kill switch, or is my math fuzzy?
 
the killswitch trigger that you speak of is the two orange wires. when they get powered, the killswitch is in the "run" position. when the have no power, the killswitch is in the "stop" position. when they get power through the killswitch, it flips the relay and lets the full 12 volts through from the battery.
 
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