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Well...

So, after it going to the ignition, I called dynatek for a resistance test and they gave me one to do, and it passes the test, aswell as the dyna coils. Guy said hes gonna send me out some stuff to do the coil relay mod, and after cleaning all I can without replacing and resoldring, its gonna be the way I go
 
timebombprod said:
So, after it going to the ignition, I called dynatek for a resistance test and they gave me one to do, and it passes the test, aswell as the dyna coils. Guy said hes gonna send me out some stuff to do the coil relay mod, and after cleaning all I can without replacing and resoldring, its gonna be the way I go
Click to expand...

I was only getting around 10V at the coils with Dyna S and Dyna coils. Did the coil relay (piece of cake) and have 12+V constantly. Do it and your problems will disappear.
 
DucatiDave said:
I was only getting around 10V at the coils with Dyna S and Dyna coils. Did the coil relay (piece of cake) and have 12+V constantly. Do it and your problems will disappear.
Click to expand...

Doing it this morning hope all goes well.

I do have a question maybe you could help, I've opened my harness and was looking for the splice where the coil wires and killswitch wire meet. Ofcourse I found it but I was wondering do i disconnect the coil wires from the splice and only have the killswitch wire on there, and have that wire where I hook my relay to for the killswitch?
 
Having trouble, hooked up the coil relay mod correctly, like the diagram I'll provide, I took a video showing the issue. Hoping it's something dumb or just the relay maybe being busted.

No voltage to my coil wires whatsoever.

Screenshot_20210510-210109_Chrome.jpg

Heres the diagram I've used.

And heres the video showing my setup and also showing the voltage readings I get.


https://youtu.be/Sg7n3gj1clY


One thing i noticed looking at my diagram is the orange and white wire i hooked up to that had the splice for the coilpacks also has the starter button wire hooked up to it. The killswitch has two orange and white wires on it. One goes straight to the fusebox and the other connects to the starter button and now runs to the relay. Could this be where I messed up? And ifso, where should i hook up the killswitch/starter wire to, it was connected to the coil wires beforehand.
 
Sorry, but I am not sure what the problem is here. It sounds/looks like you have it wired correctly but I am far from an expert here (I hate electronicals! :) . IIUC you have it wired the same as I wired mine. Hopefully someone with more experience can weigh in...
 
timebombprod said:
Having trouble, hooked up the coil relay mod correctly, like the diagram I'll provide, I took a video showing the issue. Hoping it's something dumb or just the relay maybe being busted.

No voltage to my coil wires whatsoever.
Click to expand...

When you turn the killswitch to the run/on position do you hear the relay click? If not check that you are getting 12v on pin 86 of the relay when you turn the killswitch on. If you aren't, presuming you don't have a blown fuse or other loss of power, the relay isn't connected to the killswitch wire. If you are getting 12v on pin 86, then try moving your ground for pin 85 directly to battery negative. If the relay now works, your chosen ground was insufficient.

If the relay does click as is, do a continuity check between pin 87 and 30. There should be continuity when the relay is turned on (killswitch on).

Note all above tests require the ignition on whenever the killswitch is expected on.
 
Killer2600 said:
When you turn the killswitch to the run/on position do you hear the relay click? If not check that you are getting 12v on pin 86 of the relay when you turn the killswitch on. If you aren't, presuming you don't have a blown fuse or other loss of power, the relay isn't connected to the killswitch wire. If you are getting 12v on pin 86, then try moving your ground for pin 85 directly to battery negative. If the relay now works, your chosen ground was insufficient.

If the relay does click as is, do a continuity check between pin 87 and 30. There should be continuity when the relay is turned on (killswitch on).

Note all above tests require the ignition on whenever the killswitch is expected on.
Click to expand...

Okay will do, likely tonight gotta get sleep
 
Again, kind of hard for me to follow your video, but I *thought* you said you had 12.xx volts at your new (white?) coil connector wire with the Key Off. That shouldn’t happen or your coils will be on all the time. Is the relay you got a NO (Normally Open) relay or a NC (Normally Closed) relay?

A NO relay will not pass current from pin 30 to pin 87 when the relay is inactive, and will only pass current from 30 to 87 when 85 and 86 are passing current. Unplug the relay and put your ohm meter on 30 and 87 and see if you have continuity when t he relay is off.
 
pdqford said:
Again, kind of hard for me to follow your video, but I *thought* you said you had 12.xx volts at your new (white?) coil connector wire with the Key Off.
Click to expand...

He's doing voltage drop testing, so the desired reading is 0v with key on and killswitch on. Essentially, the video shows he's got no power to his new coil wires but a connection exists between them and ground - likely through the dyna s ignition via the power wire to the dyna and hitting ground on the ground side of it, not an issue at present.
 
Last edited:
pdqford said:
Again, kind of hard for me to follow your video, but I *thought* you said you had 12.xx volts at your new (white?) coil connector wire with the Key Off. That shouldn’t happen or your coils will be on all the time. Is the relay you got a NO (Normally Open) relay or a NC (Normally Closed) relay?

A NO relay will not pass current from pin 30 to pin 87 when the relay is inactive, and will only pass current from 30 to 87 when 85 and 86 are passing current. Unplug the relay and put your ohm meter on 30 and 87 and see if you have continuity when t he relay is off.
Click to expand...

No I was incorrect, it's not 12 volta at the coils its a voltage drop showing that no power was to the coils, no matter what i did. Still have to do the tests killer gave me.
 
Last edited:
Okay so, did those tests.

I checked voltage woth killswitch on ignition off, still no volts to coil wires.

I listened for the relay to click with ignition on killswitch on, nothing, so I went ahead and checked for the voltage at 86 and I have no voltage loss with killswitch off but key on, I turn the killswitch on and I lose about 1.2v which I think is normal function, I did take note that my lights did not dim at all when turning killswitch on.

So, seeing that I had voltage going to the 86, I went ahead and put the ground connection on the negative battery terminal, nothing changed.

Even though I dont hear the relay click, I went ahead and checked for continuity, key off killswitch off 8.48k, key on ignition off, 8.48k, key on ignition on, 8.48k.

I'm bad with understanding continuity but I believe the number should stay zero
 
Been having this guy help me on Facebook, ran a bit of other tests aswell and now we suspect the relay is at fault, one more quick test to make sure it is at fault.

Funny enough, when I got this relay, one of the staples in the package was removed and the relay had a layer of dust on it.
 
Andddd.....bad relay!
Best possible outcome in my opinion, I will have to wait about 7 hours to get another one but once its hooked up I will be able to see how my coil wires are doing and if that's good I start it up, and if that's good I ride and give it the beans to see if it keeps up. If it does i would be able to say I'm (mostly) done.
 
Didnt think I'd be back on here to ask more questions, but oh well.

I got a new relay, and tested everything to make sure all was well, and infact it was. I had 12 volts sourced to my coils and it was not.showing any signs of weakness, checked this morning and same thing, so I decided to put my coilpacks back on.

After putting the coilpacks on, I went ahead and tested for voltage loss and total voltage at the coils, checked the positive and was only losing .15v no big deal, I just went ahead and checked the total voltage seeing that the positive side of things was my main problem, 10.5v. Checked the negative voltage loss and it was 1.5v.

Before I added the coilpacks and the wires were sitting freely not connected to anything, voltage was 12, after i connected the coilpacks and wires to them, 10.5v
Sanded the coilpack mounts and still the same voltage. Also everytime I turn my killswitch off with the key on my plug cap pops, wondering if it's trying to source a ground or what.

I would think my dyna ignition wouldnt be the issue seeing that the voltage was fine before the coilpacks were added, and changed afterwards, but what do I know.

My ignitor has been deleted so the coil wires just run straight from the ignition to the coilpacks. I checked the voltage loss at where my dyna wires connect to the coil wires and there was about .1v lost while the killswitch was off, when I turned on the killswitch it went to about 1.4v

What to do?
 
I just checked for voltage loss directly.on the dyna and no numbers were significant enough to show it was the issue, put the probe everywhere on the Dyna and it reads .09v
 
?Also everytime I turn my killswitch off with the key on my plug cap pops, wondering if it's trying to source a ground or what.?

probably normal, but I?d ask dyna.
 
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