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1997 Yamaha yzf1000 Thunderace

  • Thread starter Thread starter Oldman99
  • Start date Start date
My new (seemingly) ultra rare chain and master link came in. It's a RK532gsv o-ring.
It's got the snap on keeper, but I'm thinking I'll still need to press the outer link in place.
As you can see from pic 2 and 3. Thats as far down as it will go by hand.
Thoughts?

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Ive always used clip type masters. I typically squeeze them with needle type vise grips while the chain is on the rear sprocket to pull the clip in. But in my case its for the boat anchor chain size 630 my 1150 has. (Doing a 530 next go).
 
New chain installed along with alot of cleaning.

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Got 45 miles on a test ride. I might be a bit biased, but it feels smoother.

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That chain looks kinda tight. Always hard to tell from a pic but loose last much longer than tight. I use a small twig (to keep my hands clean) and push up on the chain in the center and it should stop just shy of the arm... 3/4" of play.

Similar swingarm as the FZ1. Good idea to put anti-seize on the Yamaha chain adjuster bolts and run them in as far as they will go to get it on the interior threads.
 
So I seem to have done the dumbest thing I could have done when it came to a gauge cluster.
I was riding home from work and my oil light came on. The bike dose not keep track of oil pressure, it has a float in the bottom of the oil pan, so when the level gets too low, it lights up. I shut it down and pulled over. Oil level was spot on.
After scratching my head for a few days, I found that I had swapped the low oil light with the low fuel light.
Durrrrrr...... :p
 
Don't it make you feel good, when you find such a simple fix? Couldn't have turned out better. Glad you didn't run out of fuel. Do other bikes have this float system? I wasn't aware of it on bikes.
 
New chain installed along with alot of cleaning.

17098418_615234722007136_1436597598477416869_n_zpszuidquhy.jpg


Got 45 miles on a test ride. I might be a bit biased, but it feels smoother.

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1234_zpsnsggmyop.jpg
Very clean work!
I agree that the chain looks too tight. But we're only looking at pics.
Me, I dunno, I've studied aerodynamics since I was a kid, a sport bike without body panels frustrates my logic.
 
Very clean work!
I agree that the chain looks too tight. But we're only looking at pics.
Me, I dunno, I've studied aerodynamics since I was a kid, a sport bike without body panels frustrates my logic.
I'm slowly buying the stock body off of ebay when ever I can get a good deal...
I just need the upper headlight and side fairings.
 
Took her apart to replace the fuel pump and all the carb rubbers and seals.
The stock setup has hot coolant flowing through the carbs. The magazine articles from the time say its to keep ice from forming during low temp riding. I dont do much of that and I dont like the thinking behind it. I want to get rid of it. I can eather cap off the supply and return or I can hook them up. What are your thoughts?
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I had the same set-up on my old ZX9R - pretty sure I just removed all the pipes and capped them. It's just a bypass from the normal cooling channels so plugging them up wont harm anything.
 
So yesterday, I got the barbed bits, a coupler. Then I soldered them together. I found that one side is a 1/4'' and the other side is a 5/16''.
Used my 40 mile commute to and from work as a test ride and she did fine until I got some junk stuck in one of the idle jets. Cleaned that back out after getting home. Need to get a better fuel filter tomorrow. My new bearings and dust seals for the front, back wheels and the sprocket carrier came in. I also got the oil pan gasket. I'm still waiting on the clutch fiber plates, the clutch cover gasket and shifter springs. Want to do all that at the same time.

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