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550 got some loving today!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Lifttech81
  • Start date Start date
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Lifttech81

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Had a productive day with the old girl. Fresh oil and filter change.
Got some shine into a few chrome pieces I could get to. First time I've looked at the rear tire alignment/chain tension since I got it. Spec for chain lash is 20 to 30 mm. Mine was about double that. Tire was also out of alignment. All in all pretty mint. Aligned it and got the correct tension on chain and away we were for a test drive!

Ride went super smooth, she ran great. Parked in my driveway and attempted to duplicate my intermittent no start when hot. Wouldn't fire with the ignition switch. Cranked for days all lights working and fuel getting to carbs. Decided to try and push start it. Pointed downhill popped the clutch in first and fired right up. Getting the meter out tomorrow and going to start testing/inspecting the starter and ignition circuit. Anyway enough of that! Pictures








 
Time for the Quick Test. Voltage at battery
Key on
Starter button pushed
Running at idle
Running at 4k rpm
 
The emphasis on your voltage testing will be when the starter button is pushed and the starter is working. :-k

It <should> remain comfortably over 11 volts with a good battery. If it drops below 10, there is a good chance there isn't enough 'juice' left to fire the plugs.

On larger engines, there is a bit more inertia in the crank assembly. There are times when the battery is just starting to get weak enough to fire the plugs, but when you remove your thumb off the starter button, there is still enough motion in the crank to fire the plugs and away it goes.

.
 
Makes sense. I did top of the distilled water and let it trickle charge overnight when I first got it. We'll get the fluke on it tomorrow
 
Common issues are weak battery and starter drawing too much current ad it's gummed up
 
If I get any low values tomorrow I'll take the battery out and do a bench load test on it. Probably end up going through starter and all connections too. Pictures and info to come !
 
For some reason I always find bikes with no kick start go figure
 
Got all my values this morning

Key off battery voltage 13.4
Key on battery voltage 12.9
Key on headlights on 10.6
Key on cranking. <10 volts and dropping fast

Going to grab a new battery today. As soon as I turned the headlights on the voltage dropped too low to fire the coils and wouldn't start. Turned the headlights off and checked and started up fine. Once running voltage hovers around 13.5. Also going to check all grounds and connections for starting system/ignition.

Put the battery on the bench load tester and immediately failed
 
You shouldn't be able to turn the headlight on/off on an "81" model. You're not doing something illegal are you??? I'm sure nobody around here would install an illegal headlight switch on a GS.
 
You shouldn't be able to turn the headlight on/off on an "81" model. You're not doing something illegal are you??? I'm sure nobody around here would install an illegal headlight switch on a GS.

I wondered the same about the headlight on/off switch on an '81
 
The biggest switch to on the top right of left handlebar switch is the main lights on off switch. Looks quite factory to me

 
I'm fuzzy on the specifics, but believe that (at least US model) motorcycles were equipped from the factory since ?'78 with a non-operable on/off switch. Meaning you can't turn it off without modifying the innards of the switch mechanism. That's why it seems odd that you would have a functioning factory headlamp on/off switch on a /81. Maybe someone else can either clarify or debunk my statement.
 
I can post the vin number if someone who knows more wants to look? Or is that frowned upon
 
Vin starts with js1... do I have a Japanese spec gs? Or am I getting excited for nothing
 
If you think it's important. If you have a working on/off switch, good for you. Just remember it's not legal drive a motorcycle on the road with the headlight off (I'm pretty sure this is true in all 50 states and Canada). I'd clean all the contacts in that housing and put it back together, charge up your new battery, then post up new quick test numbers, all 6 of them. The test is linked in my signature, but this is what you should be seeing.

Quick Test Steps:

1.) key off................Normal 12.7 volts-12.9 volts

2.) key on (but not cranking with lights for 10 sec).....Normal 12.2-12.5 volts

3.) at idle (1500 rpm).....12.6volts - 13.2volts

4.) at 2500 rpm 13.5 -14.0 volts

5.) at 5000 rpm.....14.0 -15.0 volts

6.) key off.....slightly higher than measurements # 1 (12.8-13.0 v)
 
1978 U.S. passed a law, all motorcycles on public roads had to have headlight on. The "78" & newer bikes couldn't have a working switch to turn the headlight off. Suzuki used the same left hand switch, for the "78", & maybe later, model bikes as the "77" models, they just installed a little plastic "stop" to keep the headlight switch from being slid to the off pos. The little "stop" could easily be trimmed off with a pocket knife, to make the switch usable again. Can't tell from that parts diagram, but kind'f looks like the "81" 550T was still using that same LH switch. Congrats, I wish all my bikes had a headlight switch, for the exact reason you've found. Mfg's did different things, I think Honda, when the start button was pushed, the headlight went off, & Yamah, the headlight didn't come on till eng. started. Suzuki took the worst option.
 
I dont believe it's important I've just always been a fan of japanese spec cars and bikes. On my way to the shop for a new battery and I'll be doing some cleaning here shortly. Will repeat testing from the morning and post results.
 
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