'85 GS700e restoration

[Guest]

Wow, that billet stuff is sweet! Wish I had the funds to have some of that beautiful stuff. Your friend does amazing work.

 

[cowboyup3371]

Please understand that WD40 is not a penetrating agent and really should not be used as such. PB Blaster or similar will do what you are wanting better.

 

[SVSooke]

Please understand that WD40 is not a penetrating agent and really should not be used as such. PB Blaster or similar will do what you are wanting better.

+1 on this.A good penetrating oil is way better than WD40.

 

[jwhelan65]

Another build thread that might be helpful

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=135310

 

[soundsource]

Wow, that billet stuff is sweet! Wish I had the funds to have some of that beautiful stuff. Your friend does amazing work.

Hi Sci85, isn't it! Years of practice I'm told... Dave and I used to ride together, back when I had my GS250X. He's doing great stuff now restoring bikes and making these billet cases and covers. Shame he doesn't live close to me any more.

 

[soundsource]

Please understand that WD40 is not a penetrating agent and really should not be used as such. PB Blaster or similar will do what you are wanting better.

Hi cowboyup3371! Thanks for the tip, and may I say what a great user name you have sir! Just ran out of WD-40 today so might have to take your advice. I wonder if I can get PB Blaster in the UK? We'll have to see. Thanks again for the tip!

 

[soundsource]

+1 on this.A good penetrating oil is way better than WD40.

Hi there Mr SVSooke! I've been reading through your Old Yeller threads and hope to benefit from your wealth of experience. Thanks for reinforcing the cowboy's concern with the WD-40. It's all I had to hand at the time but have just ran out so time to take your advice!

 

[soundsource]

Another build thread that might be helpful

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=135310

Hi Joe, I've probably read through this thread three times straight now - she really is a beauty and an inspiration. Thanks for staying in touch... Now back to reading your thread for the fourth time!

 

[soundsource]

Striptease Day II

Striptease Day II

Well, as ever I had a lot planned for today but life just seemed to get in the way! Got a few bits done:

Drained the Oil

Which I could tell straight away has been severely contaminated by gasoline a) because it was far too runny and b) it stank the place out! It came out so quick it was all over my driveway before I could even get my neatly cut container underneath it! I'm amazed she started and ran with such a mix in the crankcase. I assume the fuel is in there because I left the petcock on "prime" the first night I got her. On the plus side I can now see through the little observation window that you use to check the oil level. I though it was soiled and dirty but must have just been obscured by a whole heap of dirty gasoline!

Now that's better! I can see through there now... Next up, took the oil filter housing off and removed the oil filter which by now was sparkling due to being soaked in oily gasoline!

Drained what was left of the oil/gasoline and got started on removing the carbs. I was expecting this to be more difficult than it actually was, I feel like the job so far has been so free from problems I'm in line for a whole heap of s**t any time soon. Let's hope not! Anyway, I got stuck on the Intake boots as I don't have an impact-driver. It's a national holiday here tomorrow so I doubt I'll get one before next weekend now. Think I'll replace these screws and many others with stainless steel allen bolts as so many of you have done and recommend. Save a lot of trouble next time!

I managed to loosen them pretty easily once the circlips were undone a few turns then it just popped out. Fiddled a little bit with the throttle cable and even more with the choke but eventually got the whole unit free. Success! I was slightly apprehensive about this but seemed to pull it off without any major hitches.

I think they look pretty clean. If you're wondering about the carpet tile I just use that to save my knees from the gravel on the driveway, plus I'm sure you've heard about the somewhat changeable weather here in the UK so it should make sense that I don't want soggy knees either!

Next I thought I'd try for myself to get the infamous airbox out of the frame. Guess what? It doesn't work. I still don't have the intake boots off and I suppose I could take the air outlet boots off as well though I wanted to save them because they look pretty healthy. We'll see when I get the impact-driver. It looks like there's not much in it in terms of space needed to complete the job. What a terrible design flaw! Suppose this is where I start to think about whether or not to install pods and re-jet?

Lastly, I took a look at BassCliff's guide to bleeding the brakes thinking I'd have time to get that sorted but like I said, life sometimes takes over and this is when it did.

On another note I checked the worst spots of rust I could find (both on the shock) and gave them a quick rub with a wire brush and a light sand. They both came up pretty good so all in all very pleased with progress so far! Looking forward to another day off tomorrow and whatever comes with it!

 

[Billy Ricks]

Here is something you might find useful if you do the frame. http://www.por15.com/CHASSIS-COAT-BLACK/productinfo/CHG/ I think Nessism has used it a had good things to say about it. They have a line of products that are cheap to use and yield great results, especially the tank liner. If the spring is toast I have one I could send you for shipping. I have the whole shock but that would be costly to ship. The linkage I can't help you with but the '83 and up 750E is the same so if that's toast it will make one easier to find. It looks like the battery puked some acid down on the suspension. I'd pull the swingarm and all the shock linkages and check the bearings.

 

[GateKeeper]

I think they look pretty clean.

They might look clean, but you really need to take them apart, dip them, clean them properly, change all the O rings (www.cycleorings.com) and then you will know they are good to go....

visually looking at them, they way there are now, really doesn't tell you anything....

 

[SVSooke]

They might look clean, but you really need to take them apart, dip them, clean them properly, change all the O rings (www.cycleorings.com) and then you will know they are good to go....

visually looking at them, they way there are now, really doesn't tell you anything....

GK`s right,take off the float bowlsand have a look there.Even if they look OK ?t`s best to dip and replace the o ring with a set from Mr Barr.Yeller was running quite nicely before I replaced the old o rings.With the new ones she`s outstanding.
I wouldn't worry to much about getting a specific brand of penetrating oil.I've tried a Canadian brand Lloyds and PB Blaster.Going back to Lloyds when the PB`s gone.

 

[soundsource]

Here is something you might find useful if you do the frame. http://www.por15.com/CHASSIS-COAT-BLACK/productinfo/CHG/ I think Nessism has used it a had good things to say about it. They have a line of products that are cheap to use and yield great results, especially the tank liner. If the spring is toast I have one I could send you for shipping. I have the whole shock but that would be costly to ship. The linkage I can't help you with but the '83 and up 750E is the same so if that's toast it will make one easier to find. It looks like the battery puked some acid down on the suspension. I'd pull the swingarm and all the shock linkages and check the bearings.

Hello again Billy, thanks for the update and crucial information. Now you mention it, it does look suspiciously like the battery spewed onto the shock - well spotted and thank you! How do I tell if the shock is dead? I definitely planned on pulling the swing arm and suspension, if only to sand, clean and paint so when it's off what can I do to make sure it's all in working order? Thanks for the offer of the shock, obviously if the current one is dead I'll check back with you...

Also, would it be possible to spray the frame well without pulling the engine and forks off? I'm trying to limit budget and time off the road so any avoidable major jobs I can get away with I will try. Maybe holding card or paper behind the frame as I spray? I really have no idea (you probably knew that already!). I'll try and find a UK supplier for the Chassis Coat spray paint in the meantime...

 

[Billy Ricks]

There is a UK supplier for POR 15 products. If you don't see where any oil has leaked from the shock it's probably okay as far as damping. I offered the spring because in one of your earlier posts it looked like the acid had eaten away at the spring. It seems to have cleaned up pretty nicely though. Pulling the fork and dropping the engine seems like a lot of work but it's not really. If you can't find the online service manual for the 700 I can copy the pages for fork and shock removal for you and email them. You can have them off both ends in half a day if you are industrious, and you seem to be. The engine can be done by one person. I haven't had the need to but most people get the engine unbolted but leave the bolts in the motor mounts. Then they lay the bike on its side to pull the frame off of the engine. Just a few plugs to take care of and a few other odd wires to unfasten. You would probably have to pull the valve cover too. It would be a good time to check clearances anyway.

I'm good at making work for you huh?

 

[soundsource]

They might look clean, but you really need to take them apart, dip them, clean them properly, change all the O rings (www.cycleorings.com) and then you will know they are good to go....

visually looking at them, they way there are now, really doesn't tell you anything....

Ok GateKeeper I'm sold! Been looking for o-rings and SS allen bolts just this evening! Looks like the cycleorings.com site is the answer to my prayers! Thank you kindly sir for the link... Is there a similar site that offers sets of SS bolts for the covers etc.? Any other gems you're holding out on?

In terms of cleaning the carbs I'm not going to hold back but thanks for the reminder. I've been looking for carb cleaner as well but the price for Gunk here is something like $100 for a 96 Oz can. Is that normal? Thanks again for looking out for me!

 

[Billy Ricks]

Ok GateKeeper I'm sold! Been looking for o-rings and SS allen bolts just this evening! Looks like the cycleorings.com site is the answer to my prayers! Thank you kindly sir for the link... Is there a similar site that offers sets of SS bolts for the covers etc.? Any other gems you're holding out on?

In terms of cleaning the carbs I'm not going to hold back but thanks for the reminder. I've been looking for carb cleaner as well but the price for Gunk here is something like $100 for a 96 Oz can. Is that normal? Thanks again for looking out for me!

We pay about $20 for a gallon can here. If you're disassembling any way I think lacquer thinner would do a good job of dissolving all the deposits if you soaked with it. Just don't use the stuff indoors and be careful with any rags that get soaked with it.

 

[soundsource]

There is a UK supplier for POR 15 products. If you don't see where any oil has leaked from the shock it's probably okay as far as damping. I offered the spring because in one of your earlier posts it looked like the acid had eaten away at the spring. It seems to have cleaned up pretty nicely though. Pulling the fork and dropping the engine seems like a lot of work but it's not really. If you can't find the online service manual for the 700 I can copy the pages for fork and shock removal for you and email them. You can have them off both ends in half a day if you are industrious, and you seem to be. The engine can be done by one person. I haven't had the need to but most people get the engine unbolted but leave the bolts in the motor mounts. Then they lay the bike on its side to pull the frame off of the engine. Just a few plugs to take care of and a few other odd wires to unfasten. You would probably have to pull the valve cover too. It would be a good time to check clearances anyway.

I'm good at making work for you huh?

Billy you're way ahead of me! I downloaded the manuals from BassCliff's brilliant website so it shouldn't be a problem. In my heart I know I should pull the engine and forks - I just can't wait to be on the road as I'm without transport and relying on public transport. Though I suppose a few more days isn't going to hurt is it! The thing I fear most is getting stuck or disheartened by taking on too much and not finishing the job.

Valves definitely getting checked. If I pull the engine can I check clearances when it's on the bench?

 

[soundsource]

Lacquer thinner? I'll see what I can find! Thanks again Billy...

 

[Billy Ricks]

You can run the clearances on the bench, it will be easier than working around the frame. Somewhere down the road you will want to pull the fork tubes again and replace the oil.

 

[soundsource]

GK`s right,take off the float bowlsand have a look there.Even if they look OK ?t`s best to dip and replace the o ring with a set from Mr Barr.Yeller was running quite nicely before I replaced the old o rings.With the new ones she`s outstanding.
I wouldn't worry to much about getting a specific brand of penetrating oil.I've tried a Canadian brand Lloyds and PB Blaster.Going back to Lloyds when the PB`s gone.

Thanks again SVSooke for your invaluable knowledge sir! The American brands are mostly imported and consequently are too expensive here. What do you think about something like this: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p62311?