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Acceleration Problem

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anthony
  • Start date Start date
Cool on the liner...didnt see that you had already done that.

I had another idea (provided the tank has been at least washed with some dish soap or something to eliminate fumes )....take a small Xmas tree bulb and stick inside the tank to illuminate it fully from inside. The the mirror will be able to see real good in there!!
 
chuck hahn said:
If I wanted to do the cheapest and easiest first I would do the valve adjustments. Need a cam cover gasket, some metric feeler gauges, some RTV for above the rubber half moon cam end plugs,and an hr or so time wise.

Get whatever shims you need from the Ray at the shim club. How that works is you check all the clearances and shuffle whatever you can to get as many valves set. Then you PM Ray and tell him what sizes you need for the ones out of spec..if any. Once the replacements get there you swap them out and send Ray back the ones you no longer need. VERY IMPORTANT NOTE------DO NOT EVER rotate the crank without a shim in a bucket!!!

This is the thread I started on how I go about doing the checks and recording each cylinders shim, gap, shim thats needed, etc etc.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=204012&highlight=simplified+spreadsheet
Click to expand...

If he is working on the bike in his signature- Anthony (AJ) Current Project: 1982 Suzuki GS750E , he doesn't have the bucket shims. He has the adjustable rockers. As for the in-line fuel filter, these bikes are gravity fed, sometimes if it isn't the right type of in filter, it can restrict the fuel flow. I don't use a in line filter on mine at all.
 
So what does the adjustable rockers mean for doing a valve adjustment? And it's just a normal $5 fuel filter.
 
Yeah...somewhere in my head I had 850 stuck. I went to Cliffs to see if there was an 850 manual even!! Then later went and saw the bike was the 750 E.
Youll notice a later post where I said to choose whatever one applies to his bike ( realizing my mistaken assumption ).
 
Anthony said:
So what does the adjustable rockers mean for doing a valve adjustment? And it's just a normal $5 fuel filter.
Click to expand...

Two wrenches and a feeler gauge and you're done

Did you consider ordering the valve cover gasket from your local Suzuki dealer? That's what I do for a $20 part
 
Not sure I have a feeler gauge, where should I get one from? And that's what I was going to do. Hopefully I get the same price from them. I rode my bike more tonight and between anywhere above 4k RPM (mainly 4-7) I could feel my bike chugging, and not smooth acceleration at all, and idle is still bad, not consistent at all. Could this be the acceleration pump in the carbs, or too rich of fuel caused by improper re-jetting from PO?
 
These carbs are not like the Keihin carbs you'll find on many of the Hondas, there is no accelerator pump, per se. What you do have is your "choke" or enrichener.

The symptoms add up to two things: improper/incomplete carb cleaning/synch and possible fuel starvation due to jetting/pods. You are going to have to tackle one possible problem at a time.
 
I do have a 4 to 1 pipe, and the air filters need to be replaced still. It's possible the carbs never got re-jetted when the 4 to 1 was installed, and pods. So, i'll have to measure the jets and see if it's stock. And I know they need to be cleaned more thoroughly, and I don't know what a carb synch involves.
 
Anthony said:
I do have a 4 to 1 pipe, and the air filters need to be replaced still. It's possible the carbs never got re-jetted when the 4 to 1 was installed, and pods. So, i'll have to measure the jets and see if it's stock. And I know they need to be cleaned more thoroughly, and I don't know what a carb synch involves.
Click to expand...

You won't need to measure the jets, the jet size is stamped right on them. What brand of pods? If it were me, I would go back to the stock air box in a heart beat.Makes tuning the carbs much much easier. Your valve adjustment is easier to do then a shim bucket set up, though you have 16 valves to adjust rather then 8. Ditch the fuel filter, chances are it is restricting your fuel flow.
 
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mrbill5491 said:
You won't need to measure the jets, the jet size is stamped right on them. What brand of pods? If it were me, I would go back to the stock air box in a heart beat.Makes tuning the carbs much much easier. Your valve adjustment is easier to do then a shim bucket set up, though you have 16 valves to adjust rather then 8. Ditch the fuel filter, chances are it is restricting your fuel flow.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input. And the pods are just some generic brand, they are not good at all, I need to replace them. I'd rather just get new ones than put an air box back on though, as it's already been done. And I'm glad the valve adjustment will be easier on my bike. I have a manual for my bike, but is there a more visual aid somewhere (or detailed) on how to do a valve adjustment on my type of engine? Also, I did the fuel filter because I didn't want any extra particles or crap getting into the carbs. But if it restricts my fuel flow, I'll take it off.
 
The fuel filter is not necessarily a bad thing, although it is usually unwarranted as the fuel pickups should have a filter, and there is a second basket filter in some (maybe all?) of the petcocks as well. Of course, a PO could have messed with those, so the inline filter as a temporary precaution is not a bad choice right now.

Like MrBill says, an inline filter could restrict flow if it causing a kink in the line, has too little volume/pipe diameter, is put in the wrong way around, or is itself clogged.

It is easy to determine if any of those are an issue at idle, but not so easy to see if there is a fuel flow issue as you get on the throttle, under load (i.e. your 4-7k stumble).

Pods are a nightmare on a motorcycle with little known history, even for guys with a lot of wrenching experience. You really would be better off getting an airbox and starting again, just to get the bike back to baseline. I guess I'd be asking myself why I wanted pods in the first place...looks? Performance gains? Ease of access to the carbs? There are solid arguments against pods with your models on all three fronts.

If you do stick with the pods, you will be in and out of the carbs a bunch trying to get the jetting spot on.
 
The service manual is really good at explaining the valve adjustment. The hardest thing about it is making sure you hold the adjustment in place while you set the locknut.

This one is showing a Honda Rebel, but it is essentially the same thing. If you start at about the 5 minute mark, you will miss all of the preliminary stuff that is not relevant. Note the adjustments are being done at TDC (top dead centre), on a stone-cold engine. You'll have to look at your manual to see where your TDC mark is for each cylinder.

Also note that the beam-type torque wrench the guy is using is not necessarily the best tool for torquing down the locknuts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZxB7sUG_O4

Like I said, it is not a Suzuki engine, and it is not a substitute for a service manual, but it does show how to get the proper feel for clearance.
 
Oh yeah a word of advice on the valve adjustment, might want to order a couple spares of the lock nut and the adjustment screw itself. Sometimes because of age, wear etc, the lock nut can start binding on the threads, adjustment is impossible then. I've had that happen a couple times and had to get some new ones to finish up the job. This way if it does happen, you got some spares on hand already and not have to wait on the parts to get to you. I have about 4 of each as spares now in my parts box.
 
I think adjusting the jets would be easier then trying to find and for out money for an air box, unless you have a suggested place where I can get one, complete.
Edit: Also, where can I get extra locknuts and adjuster screws? Just my local Suzuki dealer?
 
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I don't have a source off the top of my head, but there are a number of EBay sellers (mrmonkeyclaw- a bit expensive and georgesfix come to mind) that have plenty of GS parts. Paul Miller Motorcyle is another off the top of my head.

All of the vendors I previously mentioned are good sources. A quick Google search found them at Partzilla, and G&S Suzuki here:

http://suzuki.gssuzuki.com/fiche_se...y=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=1982&fveh=2138

To save money on shipping, put together an order of a bunch of parts you'll need.

Oh, and the $50.00 price? That includes the rocker arm. You just need the nuts.


Your local Suzuki dealer ought to be able to get them for you. $1.75/each.

Do you have a dealer nearby?
 
I do have a dealer near me, 45 minutes. So I'll ask them for prices and maybe see how decent the prices are for doing these things for me, might as well. But i'll probably end up doing myself, except for the carb sync, which the tool for it is as expensive as it would be to have a mechanic do it for you.
 
Do NOT take your bike to the dealer to get any work done. There is very little normal maintenance you can't do on your own. You have a vested interest in your ride, and they have a vested interest in your money.

DO see if they'll match online pricing for parts. DO try to build a decent relationship with them, because they can make a difference in how long you wait/how much you pay for parts.

I know a carb synch tool (the gauge) is expensive, but it pays for itself the first time you use it. I recall reading someone paid a mechanic stupid money (around $400, IIRC) for some carb work, AND the dealer mechnic broke a float post or cracked a carb body in the process.

I'm not sure where Radford is, but a member with a Carbtune might be in your neighbourhood.
 
Well the only thing is that the local dealer charges less for a carb sync than what the tool is worth, so that's the only issue I have. I will do the valve adjustment and carb re-build myself, but the crab sync might save me money to have done at the dealer. Other than that, once I get those three things done, I'm sure they can adjust the jets for the right fuel mixture, as I've heard that is a royal pain in the butt.
 
Anthony said:
Well the only thing is that the local dealer charges less for a carb sync than what the tool is worth, so that's the only issue I have. I will do the valve adjustment and carb re-build myself, but the crab sync might save me money to have done at the dealer.
Click to expand...

BBWAAAAhhhahahahahahahahahahahahahha
 
But the tool is cheaper by the 2nd or 3rd time your into the carbs as the years progress..just sayin.
 
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