Have you looked at the connectors to see if any were corroded or unplugged? What readings do you have at those connectors?
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S
Scorpion
Guest
I have checked the connectors they are reading 12 volts as well. Correct me if I'm wrong but on my vstar the headlight wiring supplied the power to the turn signals and brake light is it the same on the gs.
S
Scorpion
Guest
I have checked every wire every fuse every connection and I can't find one problem but I still have no headlight turn signals horn brake light or ignition but I have dash lights, is there a relay that might need replacing here, I'm really good with wiring 12 volt systems and this is kicking my ass here
Steve
GS Whisperer
Well, then, please consider this a correction.
In your stock fuse block, the top fuse powers the LIGHTS.
The second fuse powers SIGNALS, which include turn signals, horn, brake light and warning lights on the dash.
The third fuse powers the IGNITION, which includes power to the starter solenoid.
The fourth fuse is the MAIN fuse, which powers the bike until the engine is running, then it protects the battery from the regulator.
The fifth fuse is your AUX fuse, which only powers the terminals right next to it, at the end of the fuse block.
.
J
JEEPRUSTY
Guest
years ago when blade fuses took over we used to get all sorts of problems on glass fuses of ever decreasing quality. Im sure it not your problem but the filaments would sometimes break where they attached to the metal end caps and only pass current intermittently especially if the engine got started.
of coursse if you twisted or moved the harness you may have broken a wire that is apparently common at the harness where it runs by the sterring head.
welll good luck time to start dressing for the ball
of coursse if you twisted or moved the harness you may have broken a wire that is apparently common at the harness where it runs by the sterring head.
welll good luck time to start dressing for the ball
S
Scorpion
Guest
Well I got tired of tracing wires on my iPhone screen so I print the wiring diagram at cvs just now on a 8x10 and it's way easier to read this thing, and the weird thing to me is when I turn the key on my oil light and neutral light come, but not my headlight or if I press the horn nothing if I hit the switch for turn signals nothing and if I pull the clutch lever in and press the start button nothing but power is going threw the top three fuses when I turn the key on so they are getting power but not turning on
S
Scorpion
Guest
Ok I have checked and double checked every wire and every connection I could find, I took off the headlight and checked all the wires and connections in there and still everything looks good and I tested the headlight and it works just fine very bright with just some spare wire from the battery to the light. From reading that wiring diagram it looks like it's the igiation switch cause the problem but idk.
T
Texas Don
Guest
The switches can't be assumed to be all good since they worked yesterday. That's how electrical components fail most times. They were working properly just a moment or a day ago, now they aren't.
The ignition switch is a likely culprit and is easy enough to verify. Follow the wires from the switch until you come to a 4 pin plug. On my 79GS1000 it's about 10" from the switch to the plug. Disconnect the plug, turn the switch on and using an ohmmeter check for continuity between the Red and Orange wire, then the Gray and Brown wire. Both sets of wire should read zero ohms. Turn the switch to the park position and you should read zero ohms between all 4 wires. If you read any resistance or if you should read an open circuit, repair or replace the switch. Originally on my bike a PO had cut off the plug and used crimp connectors to wire the switch into the harness permanently so be on the lookout for PO modifications to your bike. If the plug is missing and the wires connected together, you can still check the switch by inserting your meter probe along side the wire into the connector if need be.
The ignition switch is a likely culprit and is easy enough to verify. Follow the wires from the switch until you come to a 4 pin plug. On my 79GS1000 it's about 10" from the switch to the plug. Disconnect the plug, turn the switch on and using an ohmmeter check for continuity between the Red and Orange wire, then the Gray and Brown wire. Both sets of wire should read zero ohms. Turn the switch to the park position and you should read zero ohms between all 4 wires. If you read any resistance or if you should read an open circuit, repair or replace the switch. Originally on my bike a PO had cut off the plug and used crimp connectors to wire the switch into the harness permanently so be on the lookout for PO modifications to your bike. If the plug is missing and the wires connected together, you can still check the switch by inserting your meter probe along side the wire into the connector if need be.
S
Scorpion
Guest
OK I have done th ohm test and I got 0 ohms on the red and orange wire but .3 ohms on the gray and brown wire and I have checked every connections on the harness and still im getting the same results. I checked the headlight connection and it is getting power but when I plug the headlight in nothing, the horn is getting power from the switch but it wont make a sound when I push the button, the turn signals are getting power when I slide the switch over but the wont flash. I am so confused right now it making me insane. I have unpluged and reconnected every connection on this bike, my towel is in now.
Typically, if you measure power there at the device (headlight, whatever), but the device does not function, then either the device is defective or the device does not have a ground.
Look in headlight shell for where there are some balck/white wires connected together. THey should all be well grounded (zero ohms, no resitance to battery negitive.)
Headlight and t/signals maybe reliying on same ground connection (black/white wire), so one problem there could effect both.
S
Scorpion
Guest
Redman I love and I mean that a good way I went back into the headlight shell and noticed the ground wire (black & white) was short out and I'm like WTF so I look over for all ground wires and I forgot to mention I broke my left rear turn signal a few days ago clean off the frame and the ground ring snapped off I saw so I regrounded the wire and everything works now
Good to hear of your sucsess.
One thing:
Ground ring snapped off, you say.
You refereing to a ground ring on the bike frame back by the battery?
Or are you refereing to the ground ring at the t/signal?
That ground ring and wire at t/signal should be connected to the other black/white wires in the headlight shell.
If you ground that t/signal black/white wire (or headlight black/white wire)by connecting it to the headlight bucket or something on the front end, that is not really a good ground return path to battery negitive because it has to go through the steering head bearings to get to the frame or battery negitive.
Another thing:
All those black/white wires in the headlight shell should be connected together and connected to the back/white wire in wireing harnes. And that black/white wire through the wirning harness to the bike and comes out of the harness and connect to battery negitive and frame ground.
So, yah, SHOULD be "shorted", "Shorted" meaning "short circuit to ground".
Or maybe by 'shorted', you just meant any type of problem like bing disconnected.
Yet another thing:
Thanks for the appreciation (I gather that is what sort of love you were refereing to).
Dave
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S
Scorpion
Guest
Yes that was what I meant and it was the ground ring at the turn signal and I recrimped a ring to the wire and used one of the bolts on the frame to secure it down and I cut the harness back to fix the b/w wire in the headlight shell with new wire.
