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Battery drain while bike is on.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Smellii
  • Start date Start date
I used the diode setting. I usually get an audible beeping sound if continuity is present but not in these tests for some reason. Only got these values.

Steve said:
You need to connect the black meter lead to the positive (output) of the R/R and touch the red lead to each of the input leads from the stator.
Click to expand...
A:547
B:555
C:536
Steve said:
Reverse the meter leads, put the red meter lead on the positive of the R/R, touch the three input leads.
Click to expand...
A:1
B:1
C:1
Steve said:
Now put the black meter lead on the negative (ground) of the R/R, touch the red to all three input leads.
Click to expand...
A:1
B:539
C:1
Steve said:
Finally, put the red meter lead to the negative of the R/R, touch all three input leads.
Click to expand...
A:1
B:1
C:1

Looks like it's faulty.
 
Last edited:
Got a used oem one on the way. :) May be a good temp fix until I can afford a new aftermarket one.
 
was following the conversation here, let us now if she runs fine after you swapped the R/R :)
 
...and so she sits with no means of regulating herself...

9b73d658.jpg
 
Just a general observation:

I have had the most relable results in testing diodes by using a test light and 12 volt power source rather than a meter diode tester. Not criticising others' solutions but try doing a few hundred high capacity diodes and let me know if you agree.

HIH

Norm
 
Normk said:
Just a general observation:

I have had the most relable results in testing diodes by using a test light and 12 volt power source rather than a meter diode tester. Not criticising others' solutions but try doing a few hundred high capacity diodes and let me know if you agree.

HIH

Norm
Click to expand...
I feel the current crop of bargain digital multimeters is ideal for testing the small size diodes we have. I've tested my cheapos with the Schotsky (spelling ?) diodes which have a much lower forward voltage drop than conventional diodes and been surprised- see for yourself!
 
Unless you are showing over 14 volts, the battery will not charge at any useful rate. Rather than some drain which is only present when engine is operating, it may be better to consider that the alternator output is not exceeding the load.

Does voltage rise with headlight fuse removed or headlight switch off?

Norm
 
I'm not sure that I understand your point Tom203, could you re-phrase?

Are you aware of the use of Schottky diodes in alternator rectification circuits? It was my understanding that they are a low power diode with high reverse current leakage so understood that they aren't used in rectifier circuits like for our bikes. The trick thing seems to be a controlled MOSFET although there may be an advantage to use of a Schottky diode for controlling the MOSFET but this is going out of my depth.

If you are stating that even the low cost meters are reliable for testing Schottky diodes then I accept the point as have no experience in that regards.

My point was with reference to power rectification for vehicle alternator applications which I think are exclusively silicone diodes if a straight diode system is used. This is the case in all the automotive alternators and controlled stator field circuit motorcycle alternators which I have encountered. Any separate bike regulators seem also to be silicone diodes, IME.

There is nothing so reliable as the testing by actual operation so placing a reasonable load through the diode has always shown to be reliable although meters are not universally so.

Again, not offering to dispute others' techniques.

If testing a stator, rotor or motor/generator field winding for grounds, a multimeter is a waste of time, IMO. We used 120 Volts AC as do all the professional re-builders, IME.

Schottky diodes are an interesting concept in terms of rectification as it would be ideal to reduce the forward bias by over one volt in each diode of a rectification pair. The power loss and heat are significant.

HIH

Norm
 
Norm,
Have to take a break today to get caught up on chemistry and statistics. I'll perform the headlight test probably tomorrow.
 
If the R/R is removed and stator wires detached I can still ride the bike in the mean time for short jaunts right? As I understand it the electricals will be running strictly off of the battery until it runs out of charge, correct?
 
Ok really confused once again. I go to install my old R/R just so I don't have to drive my buick around town today and realized if I install it the way I think it needs to be installed then I have two wires in the wiring harness without a mate. Here's what I've got:

Three black stator output wires plug directly into the three R/R input wires.
8328e6a4.jpg


Next the red output R/R wire plugs into this red wire from the wiring harness. (Ground from R/R to be properly grounded of course) and that takes care of all the wires from the stator and R/R but see the green/white and the orange/white wires in the harness? They have no place to go??? I know there were connected to something when I started but can't figure it out. Sorry for the trouble guys.
118e7121.jpg
 
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