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Battery drain while bike is on.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Smellii
  • Start date Start date
That's actually a red/white wire (not orange) and you can ignore them.

They origiinally went to the headlight switch so that part of the stator would be disabled when you turned off the headlight, but, since you can't turn off the headlight, they were re-routed to just come back down. You are better off by connecting directly from the stator to the R/R inputs.

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Normk said:
I'm not sure that I understand your point Tom203, could you re-phrase?

Are you aware of the use of Schottky diodes in alternator rectification circuits? It was my understanding that they are a low power diode with high reverse current leakage so understood that they aren't used in rectifier circuits like for our bikes. The trick thing seems to be a controlled MOSFET although there may be an advantage to use of a Schottky diode for controlling the MOSFET but this is going out of my depth.

If you are stating that even the low cost meters are reliable for testing Schottky diodes then I accept the point as have no experience in that regards.


Norm
Click to expand...
I know little of Schottky diodes- my point was that the cheapo meters are a useful tool that won't intimidate a novice mechanic. Having a quick method to check a R/R rectifing circuit is handy. I have two R/R's that fail this simple test, so the meter has earned its $10 pricetag!
 
Hope I'm not creating the wrong impression as am simply interested and not intending to appear argumentative or nit-picking.

Your point regarding the low priced meters available today is well stated. I do see problems from time to time when people use diode test functions and especially when they use an ohmmeter to test diodes. That's why I mentioned the use of a 12 volt source and light. Your point that some of the low cost meters are less likely to intimidate a novice is well stated.

Too often people acquire instruments which are excessively complex which adds to the difficulty in learning to use.

I know little of Schottky diodes either excepting what I stated. It is my understanding that they have very low forward bias voltage drop in small current applications although the ones I spec'd out through Mouser and other sources seem to indicate a full load drop which is as high as that of silicone diodes. I was hoping to have someone clear up the subject as one never knows who is reading these threads.

I like the idea of a lower forward bias as I want to believe that a smaller voltage drop will translate into more alternator output, despite that theory shows it won't.:confused: Just one thing I won't be happy about until I try it and fail.

The best physics explanation I have heard was in response to a question which starter out something like, "This is off topic and someone would have to be a rocket scientist to understand this but...."

Back came a long but wonderfully crafted explanation which a 4th Grader could follow right up and beyond my college physics and into the realms of high learning. They fellow started out with something like, "Well, I do work for NASA in research & designing space so, loosely stated, I guess I'm a rocket scientist...."

One never knows.....:) It certainly never hurts to ask and often hurts if one gets onto a high horse. Short people such as I have a long fall.;)


tom203 said:
I know little of Schottky diodes- my point was that the cheapo meters are a useful tool that won't intimidate a novice mechanic. Having a quick method to check a R/R rectifing circuit is handy. I have two R/R's that fail this simple test, so the meter has earned its $10 pricetag!
Click to expand...
 
Received the R/R in the mail (Woot! Thank you, Good Sir) Hooked it up without crimping connectors to the wires (cuz I don't know if they are crimp-type) and got a 13.5V reading at the battery terminals. Seems to work great now. So freggin excited! Thanks for your help, Fellas. Just need to find out exactly how to properly connect the connectors to the wires and I'm good to go.
 
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...just noticed my blinkers aren't sluggish anymore and all my lights are brighter too!
 
You might consider soldering and heat shrinking the wires instead of using connectors. The connectors may have contributed greatly to the condition that caused the original problem. Good on you for fixing it. It feels good to repair broken stuff.
 
Just crimped them cuz I don't have the supplies to solder. Been riding a few days now and haven't had to charge it at night yet. Seems fixed.
 
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