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Battery lessons needed

chuck hahn

Forum LongTimer
Past Site Supporter
Ive been punching in the number listed for the battery in the Service manual for the 73 TX 750 and i keep getting "0 Matches Found". So where a sources for conversions on 70s OEM part numbers?? The OEM number I have in the book is..12N16-3B ( 12V 16AH ). And secondly, whats the cheapest places you guys use for batteries???

EDIT...I should add that I am just looking for a standard wet cell unit.
 
The cheapest for me has been at Menards. Walmart should be close 'if' they have the size battery you need.
 
Auto Zone, Advance Auto, O'Reilly's, Checkers, Schucks, Wal-Mart, Sears, pick one, they are all about the same.

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For an odd duck like that you may have to just measure your battery box and try to match the dimensions with the rating (~16AH).
 
Ive noticed to quite a price range between lead acid and say the lithium ion stuff.. if you went upgrade from regular lead acid, then what would you go with. I dont want to be spending 150.00 for a battery thats not any better in terms of longevity than by just staying led acid..follow me ehere??
 
For an odd duck like that you may have to just measure your battery box and try to match the dimensions with the rating (~16AH).

... and .... that the terminals are on the same side. Most batterys have negitive on left, but some have it on right.

Chuck,
If you concider an online supplier, check to see if it does or does not have the acid with it.


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I dont know much about batteries or what "questions" to ask.. So i guess what i need is pros and cons of all this new tecno stuff out these days. I mean if, say a lead acid averages 3 years for example and costs 60.00 and say a lithium one lasts 8 yers and cost 100. Whats the best deal for the best usable life...that kinda stuff is what im wondering about.
 
Chuck,

The important things are dimensions, cold cranking amps (CCA) and the posts. If you have the dead battery, take it in and compare it to what's on the shelf.

If you have Batteries Plus or similar, that's a good place to go, they have all the charts

Lead acid - $35=50
AGM - $60-75
LI-$150-250

The AGM is your best deal, $/year
 
Big T...I believe the battery that i took out of the box was the original OEM battery.. I think it says something like Yuasha on it. Im going over tommorow and will fetch it to take a pic or two and start asking local places for some figures.
 
My vote is for AGM. Comes fully charged, can't leak like a lead/acid battery, price is reasonable considering battery life ( >5 years). Lithium Ion batteries are nice, but pricey. I would only consider if weight were an issue, which it is not for your bike.
I purchased a MotoBatt off eBay and I could not be more pleased.
 
I agree with K-K on the AGM choice. By the way, that is a construction style, not a brand name, it stands for Absorbed Glass Mat, and has to do with the fiberglass mats that are between the lead plates in the battery to keep them from touching each other and shorting out. Very thin glass mats allow the lead plates to get closer together, so you can fit more lead in there, giving you higher craniking output with the same size battery.

Not so sure that lithium would be a good choice. They really require a different charging curve, which takes electronic circuitry to do properly. Our older bikes are not equipped properly to do that. Yeah, some of the bobber and cafe guys will put them in, but that doesn't mean they will be charged properly.

.
 
I got one of those Gell type batteries in my 1100 and an ordinary acid wet cell in my 1000. Problem is with the Gell is my charger won't charge it, so it says in the booklet, said it would do due harm to the battery, so I have to ride enough to keep the battery up. When it goes it's back to the wet cell, or go buy another charger that is capable of charging up the Gell.
 
This is the battery that came in the bike. Number matches the published one in the service manual. The (-) goes in the back of the box and the (+) is at the cover side. I gotta think this is either the original or an OEM replacement. Theres no liquid in it but its obviously corroded inside. HA HA.

004-9.jpg

003-9.jpg
 
How does the size compare to a GS battery?

If this is slightly larger, why not just use one that is for a GS?

The capacity isn't all that much different and the terminals are in the correct places.

.
 
Steve..I took the one out of the 78 1000C to do the cranking on it and it was about 1/4 inch too high to slide in. The tool kit tray bolts to the top of the box and theres a plate across the top that stops a GS battery from sliding in. So what i did was just hook the cables to the GS battery and let it sit on a rag on top of the muffler so i had some power to the bike. I think in the video in the other thread you can just get a glimpse of the battery dangling along side.
 
Dennis Kirk crosses it to a YB16L-B----- $77.99 in catalog but always cheaper when ordered on line. That is for a Yuasa battery
 
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