Bike dies out when I turn the choke off. Now what?

[wirelessguy]

Steve,

I'm not sure I understand the suggestion. Yes, i could apply choke half way to keep the revs down but you're not suggesting i ride like that normally?

When the choke is remove completely obv I'm still not rich enuf to keepp her running. That's what I'm looking to resolve.

 

[mighty13d]

The rpms go a lot higher under chocked

Yes, they are supposed to do that. If it doesn't go up around 3k, then things are not working properly. That part is okay.

 

[fishfarm]

Steve,

I'm not sure I understand the suggestion. Yes, i could apply choke half way to keep the revs down but you're not suggesting i ride like that normally?

When the choke is remove completely obv I'm still not rich enuf to keepp her running. That's what I'm looking to resolve.

What condition are the intake tubes and o-rings? When I first got my bike it also would not run without the choke, the intake tubes were cracked and the o-rings flat as a pancake. Replaced them and all was well.

 

[Steve]

Steve,

I'm not sure I understand the suggestion. Yes, i could apply choke half way to keep the revs down but you're not suggesting i ride like that normally?

When the choke is remove completely obv I'm still not rich enuf to keepp her running. That's what I'm looking to resolve.

To START the engine, you do not need to apply full "choke" and have it rev sky-high.

If the carbs are clean and adjusted properly, about half "choke" can be applied for about 30 seconds or so, then the bike can be ridden. By the time you get into third gear, the "choke" can be removed entirely.

If your idle is not set high enough to keep the engine going at this point, it needs to be adjusted upward. Just in case you were not aware, the proper idle speed is about 1100 rpm. Some might get their bikes to idle as low as 1000, others prefer a slightly higher speed. These are not cars, they will not idle at 700.

Did you notice the part about "If the carbs are clean and adjusted properly"? Have you properly cleaned the carbs and replaced all the o-rings?

Your bike does not use o-rings in the intake tubes, but it's still important for your intake tubes to be in good condition so they seal well. What shape are they in?

You have changed jetting, which is good, because you are using non-standard carbs. I have no suggestions to offer on jetting itself, but are the float levels set properly? If they are off, it will affect the jetting on ALL of the carb's circuits.

How many turns have you turned the idle mixture screws out from lightly seated? Most of us will start with 2 to 3 full turns out, then, after the bike warms up, turn the screws, listening for highest idle speed, indicating a "happy" mixture is being provided to the cylinder.

Hopefully these "suggestions" and questions will be specific enough that there is no confusion.

.

 

[Nessism]

What happened after you adjusted the base idle higher like several people suggested?

 

[5150/gs]

As stated in other threards,I run 1100 with 1150 carbs.
K&n pods oiled proper.4 into 1
I am using the 127.5 mikuni mains,stock pilots stock pilot airs.Used to run dyno 138's once pods cleaned and oiled i had to drop a size.
fuel adjust screws average about 3-4 turns for me.
I was not able to run the stock 1150 float level.I seriousely would look at adjusting float level to fix this problem.You are lean in the idle circuit it seemsJust my 2 cents, here are some links to study and read that helped me greatly,they have been posted here many times.If the needles, pilots and mains are right, there is only fuel screws and float levels to figure out as far as i am concerned.As long as the carbs have been dipped and petcock works propper. There are no o-rings on this engine just the carb boot manifold tubes,whatever u want to call them.

http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html
no choke needed to start the bike.

 

[The_Flash]

This thread interests me as my GS650 has not been idling properly. The strange part is that it used to idle all day long after it warmed up. But a little over a week ago I started it up on choke and it revved up to about 3000 rpm, however after a few minutes when I took the choke off it dies. That was caused by one of the coils not firing so two cylinders couldn't hold it at 1000 rpm. I fixed that problem and it idled just as good as before and I took it for a test ride. Then today I went to ride it again and it would not idle off of choke but this time it had spark at all four plugs. If I held it at about 1200 rpm and pulled the cylinder 1 plug wire there was no change, but if I pulled the cylinder 2 plug wire it died instantly. So that means it's only firing on cylinders 2+3. I held it at about idle speed with the throttle and am going to look at the spark plugs when it's cooled off.

Here's what I've done to it:

Dynatek Coils and plug wires
NGK Plugs
POR 15 Fuel Tank sealant
in-line fuel filter
cleaned and dipped carb bodies and jets (without deganging them)
set float height
adjusted idle mixture screws (engine warm)

Here's what I haven't done that I should have:

Seal airbox
replace intake boots
replace intake boot o-rings
check/adjust valves
clean air filter
make sure exhaust is sealing