Lesson learned myself the hard way..now i loosen everything before i unbolt them..I dont own a vice either!!
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Hoggystyle
Guest
there is always an easier way to do things, looks like you found it there! what kind of grease do you use on the caliper axles? ive read that it should be a copper grease but is there a brand name that you usually go by?
You can get caliper grease pack at the parts store counter for like .50..I just use a little smear of regular grease on mine. check the condition of any orings on the carrier pins as well. Many times they are stuck in there and youn gotta pull hard to get them out and the orings can tear from being old and brittle.
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Hoggystyle
Guest
does only one axle use orings? i just ordered all the rubber parts for a full rebuild and the fiche showed that only one need rings, but it looks like the other is grooved to take them as well
They are bothn grooved but all the ones ive ever taken apart only had them on the one carrier...i never questioned it before, but i would go with what the fiches show.
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Hoggystyle
Guest
ok, just making sure i have all i need to rebuild in one shot.
Inspect in the holes on the caliper bodies to be sure they are clean in there and no small pieces of old orings are up in there too. Does no good to put new stuff into crusty old holes.
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Hoggystyle
Guest
do you mean the inside where the dust boot seals around? i pulled the boot off and there is tons of rust on the inside. i sprayed pb blaster instide the cavity to help remove the axles but im not so sure that was a good idea. i bought brake parts cleaner so ill have to be very liberal with it on the insides to make sure theres none of the blaster left inside. shouldn't be too hard to clean out. as far as brake lines go, what do you use? i am shopping around for ss lines, and the link on this thread shows how to make your own. have you had any experience with this?
Clean every crack and crevice there is..especially the groove the piston seal goes in. As for lines..I just get OEM replacemants myself.
I have made mine and except for one end I didn't crimp very well they work pretty well. Plus they came out cheaper than buying a full set I thought
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Hoggystyle
Guest
i will make sure i get it completely clean, i know the importance of brakes so ill be spending most of my time getting it right, as my life will depend o it. Cowboy, do the lines from earls have Dot approval? are the lines themselves stamped? my only concern with making these lines is passing insection.
They aren't marked but I cannot see why anyone will go to that much trouble to determine if the lines are a specific brand. You'll do fine.
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Hoggystyle
Guest
alright, ill order the parts tonight for the lines. Thanks Chuck for the suggestion you made earlier about removing the axles on the bike! with the help of a steel bar on the end of my allen wrench, they came of quite easily. one more thing i am wondering, i pulled the fluid out of the master cylinder today and there is a bunch of sludge in the bottom. does this warrant a master cylinder rebuild? all of this is new to me so im not sure what i need to do to get a clean healthy front braking system
Not necessarily on the rebuild. If they work now, I would just submerge the entire thing in something like a strong mix of purple power and water ( wear rubber gloves ) and pump the handle to dissolve the sludge and clean the bore. Take the 2 screws out in the resivoir cup and pull up hard and twist and the bowl will pop out of the oring that holds it in. Clean that groove the ring sits in real well too. On the rear master..remove the rubber boot at the bottom and youll see a snap ring. remove the snap ring and the entire thing just slides apart..look at the parts fiches and youll see what i mean.
EDIT...blow lots of compressed air thru the little holes in the bottom of the frt master body ..those holes regulate the fluids flow to and from the lines. be sure the unit is dry inside as well...no moisture in the lines please!!!
EDIT...blow lots of compressed air thru the little holes in the bottom of the frt master body ..those holes regulate the fluids flow to and from the lines. be sure the unit is dry inside as well...no moisture in the lines please!!!
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Hoggystyle
Guest
ok ill have at it tomorrow while i wait for my parts and see what i can do. i dont have an air compressor. would a can of dust remover work? while im in the general region, i have a problem with the brake light sticking and staying on with the front brake lever. is that controlled by the wiring on the bottom of the assembly?
Yes..you slightly loosen the two srews in the black cap and move the chip board thats trapped between that cover and the master cylinder body. Find the sweet spot where it works best for you. tighten the screws and recheck its function..may take a try or two to get it just right.
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Hoggystyle
Guest
im glad to know thats the problem. i had no idea getting this bike up to par would be so expensive! the labor of love i say
Youve only just begun grasshopper..How much time and money do you think ive spent restoring 6 of them...and i dont regret a second of it. If i had a million to spare thats all I would do...find old bikes and rebuild them.
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Hoggystyle
Guest
i do find it more appealing than buying a new bike to ride. though ive never bought a new bike, it has been a fulfilling to take something abandoned and mistreated and bring it back to life. The fact that i am learning so much along the way, and have not given up or handed it over to a mechanic keeps me inspired to keep going and finish the project. the only thing that keeps me down is my financial situation and my workspace, but that makes it more of a challenge. hopefully i'll be ready by spring and will have a great summer reaping what i sow!
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GateKeeper
Guest
Where are the pictures........have you started a build thread ?
we love pictures
we love pictures
