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Bogs after it's warm.

  • Thread starter Thread starter kelticsol
  • Start date Start date
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kelticsol

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I cleaned the carbs. I did not rebuild them exactly per the guide.

I am a broke person with 3 kids and one on the way. I have to sell the bike for some funding to go back to school. (I will be back into GS world ASAP) I'm trying to change careers that offer more advancement and better money. I'm trying to get this bike running top shape because I got ripped off when I bought it. I can't afford to take such a huge loss on it. I gave 1400 for it. I'd be happy to get 1000 out of it right now. But that is a dim hope with the way it runs right now.

I got all the electrical demons exorcised. Thanks duaneage for the awesome regulator.
BUt back to carb/fuel/exhaust. . .

It starts revs, and idles fine when cold. Once it warms up it will pick up and go with my throttle but if I let the throttle go it won't idle. It slows down to 1000 rpms and quickly just dies.

I'm thinking possible air leak. I've ordered the orings this time to rebuild the carbs per the guide. The bike has 10xxx miles on it. the airbox boots are very pliable and are a snug fit. The head side boots are pliable but I'm thinking they are spent. I bought new clamps from suzuki and all 8 of them on the head side are completely closed. (as in they cannot be possibly tightened anymore.)

First I want to know if this sounds like an air leak. I'm thinking with heat the rubber boots on the head are softening and letting air in. Could this be remedied by replacing with hose clamps that I could tighten more?

Or any other things that this might be. I've had the bike for over a year now and have not been able to ride for longer than 15 minutes since I've had it.

EDIT: TO add one more thing. I did notice that yesterday when I took it out it did seem to hesitate a little at acceleration when it was bogging down and I hit the throttle.
 
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how do your plugs look?

If it's running good cold and gets worse as it heats up, it sounds like a rich condition.

My bike really idled well when cold, however the float settings were too high allowing way too much fuel, and as the bike heated up, I would foul plugs, and it would die when I came to a red light.


check the plugs first, once at idle when cold, then once the bike is warm check em again, and see if you have a rich running problem.

If it's rich check the float height first, then adjust the mixture screws.

Nic
 
What happens if you set the idle speed higher using the main adjustment knob? And where are the pilot screws set? They should be in the 3 turns open range.
 
I'm thinking the opposite of you and it's running rich. As Ed says, check the position of the mixture screws but also check that you have a clean air filter, float height and that the choke plungers are seating back properly.
 

IMG_1252 by kelticsol, on Flickr

Here's the plugs. Looks rich to me. or really really really bad news. Being that I haven't ridden today and the plugs still had gas on them. I'm guessing rich.

Quick question while I am tearing apart the carbs again. Are the pilot jets under the plugs in the bowls supposed to be snugged all the way down. Or are they supposed to be turned out?

SIDENOTE: Impact Screwdriver is worth every penny it costs.
 
They aren't anything you can adjust so just turn them in tight (not too tight or you'll booger the heads).
 
Thanks. That's Good because one of them is stuck in there. Somebody else stripped it out. I remember this when I tore them down last year. I just couldn't remember if that was the jet that was stuck. .
 
My '83 650G has similar symptoms to yours now that I have replaced two bad plugs. #s 1 and 4 weren't getting any spark at all until that. Thanks for those pics. I thought mine had an air leak as well, but your plugs looks just like mine did when I pulled them out of my '650G last night. I've come to the dreaded conclusion that no further work can/should be done until I can get the carbs stripped and cleaned.
 
Did you put the rubber plugs over the pilot jet port?


I did.

I found all kinds of fun stuff while I was taking apart these carbs.

Carb question? It appears 2 and 3 have plastic washers on the throttle plates. Will these be ok in the carb dip or is there something I need to remove?
 
remove all rubber/plastic pieces, as dip tends to eat them up.

Yup your rich. Are they oily at all (looked a bit wet...could just be unburned fuel, but make sure its not oil)? or just sooty? If it's gas on the plugs check your crank case (give it a sniff in the oil fill hole and check oil level) for fuel. If it's flooding out that bad, you could get some gas in the engine. Make sure your petcock is working right too.

Double check float height when you are reassembling, and then work with your mixture screws using the highest idle method once you've got them hooked back up.

Start with fresh plugs when you get the carbs reattached. Check to see that your are torquing them properly. Seems like the first plug there might have been pretty loose since there is so much color bleeding up so far on the threads.

Also, check your voltage to the coils. The Coil Relay Mod helped me to stop chasing my tail regarding richness issues. The good spark ensured a better burn on the fuel, and helped me resolve a 2-3k stumble I was having.

Nic
 
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Going to do the coil relay mod today. I'm losing about 1 volt from battery to coils. This creeped up on me. It wasn't that bad a month ago. That wiring is getting old;I guess.

Does anyone have advice how to get the washers off of the carb body? The plates are spring loaded. I really don't want to get the load on those springs messed up. I can only imagine the nightmare that might cause if I don't get the tension correct when I reassemble.
 
Can you snap a pic of the offending area of the carb?


I'll do that when I get home from work. (5:00 PM EST) Got the bowls in the dip right now. It's going to be a day or two before I get to those carbs. Just trying to cover the bases before I get there.
 
I'm at work too lol, and bored outa my skull.

Can you point it out on the diagram?

Image



I often reference the parts fisches when im dissasembling or reasembling. Kinda shows you how things come apart.
 
I just got back from lunch. Olive Garden (Good fake Italian food)

It looks like it may be #12 and #68. But I don't have the carbs in front of me right now.
 
Those plastic bits around the butterflies will OK - you don't have to remove that whole throttle valve assy.

I've never remeoved those on any of the many, many carbs I've dipped. I usually spray down each disassembled carb body with carb spray cleaner first to reduce the amount of gunk I put into the dip can. Then each body & bowl go into together for 24 hrs or so.

Are your mixture screw caps removed already? If not, you have to yank them out to get to the mixture screw, spring & teeny, tiny washer & o-ring. Take care when removing them so as not to lose that stuff.

Good luck,

mike
 
Coil relay mod - Check.
Drain Goil (Gas/Oil) - Check.
Scratch head and wonder how long the PO rode with the bad petcock tha I replaced - Check
Strip Acorn Nut - Check
Strip Acorn Stud - Check.
Drop little spring on the front brake light switch - Check
Find little spring - Check (This was amazing that I found it. It bounced off the Valve cover gasket)
Dump contents of parts basket into Parts Dip - Check

I've had a busy day. Seriously, everything was going great. I was getting stuff done on the bike. Having a good time. Time was flying by. Then everything went to a handbasket.

So, off to GSR to see about removing that pesky stud and getting a new nut.
 
Vice grips are your friend for removing the studs.

Then replace with a new M6 Size, 1mm Pitch stud (measure the length of your old stud). You can find them at good hardware stores (not HD or Low).

How much goil did you get out of the cases?

Nic
 
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