Bogs after it's warm.

[kelticsol]

I'm scared to admit. But it was about 2 gallons. I'm guessing it's a really good thing that I wasn't able to ride it for more than 15-20 minutes.

I got the stud out no problems. Hardware store is getting hit up tomorrow. Fo Sho.

 

[niclpnut]

I'm scared to admit. But it was about 2 gallons. I'm guessing it's a really good thing that I wasn't able to ride it for more than 15-20 minutes.

I got the stud out no problems. Hardware store is getting hit up tomorrow. Fo Sho.

Ouch on the gas.

Running like that is a easy way to mess up the bearings.

Hopefully no damage was done.


Nic

 

[mike-s]

2 gallons, damn. That's like you've basically got a bunch of ultrarich 2 stroke premix operating in the sump

 

[kelticsol]

Yes it is. At least I am getting this stuff all worked out.

On to other news: I knew that the pilot jet (the one in the bottom of carb) on Carb #1 was stripped out by the PO. So, Did some research into the matter here. Saw some really good ideas to get it out. Torx, Left hand drill bits, etc, etc. Well after dip, overnight in Liquid Wrench, and applying heat, I am now the proud owner of a carb body that has a pilot jet with a tip of a torx head stuck inside. Next I'm off to get a left handed drill bits.

Todays check list:

Hardware store for the infamous stripped oil change mistake.
Then to Harbor Freight for some left handed drill bits.
Then to Dealership and hope they have a 42.5 Pilot Jet.

While on the subject of Jets:
Main Jet : 130
Pilot 42.5

That's what is in there now. It does have 4 in 1 V&H. Do those jets seem about right? I was thinking the main may be a little large.

 

[niclpnut]

Stock main jet is mikuni 112.5 and 42.5 pilots

Is the main jet a mikuni jet or aftermarket? Is the needle adjustable? Is there a jet kit installed?

Dynojet Stage 3 uses a 130 which equates to a 122.5 mikuni.

If you have a 130 mikuni main jet and you are running an air box it seems a bit large.

Nic

 

[kelticsol]

I would have no idea if this is a DYno or not. I googled it real quick and no one seems to have an exact way to ID them.

I can tell you this:

Main: 130
Air Jet: 160
Pilot: 42.5

The only other markings on them appear to be R51 or something like that. It very easily could be some japanese character.

The slide seems to have a taper. Are the stock ones Completely straight?

 

[niclpnut]

They have a taper, but not as dramatic as aftermarket needles.

Jet kits offer a needle with multiple slots that allow the clip to be moved up or down.

Also the jets will be marked. The mikuni mark is a box with another box inside it.

 

[kelticsol]

That's the mark. If you squint it kinda looks like a 51. So, they're mikuni jets then.

I'm guessing the 160 on the main air jet equates to 1.6 mm. Stock from manual says 1.7 mm. Is this right?

 

[BassCliff]

That's the mark. If you squint it kinda looks like a 51. So, they're mikuni jets then.

I'm guessing the 160 on the main air jet equates to 1.6 mm. Stock from manual says 1.7 mm. Is this right?

Hi,

The stock Mikuni main jets use a volume measurement. For example, a jet marked 160 will flow 160cc of fuel per minute. This measurement does not correspond to the actual diameter of the jet opening (in mm).

The main jets in the Dynojet kits are measured in actual size. A 130 Dynojet main jet will have a diameter of 130mm.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[niclpnut]

That's the mark. If you squint it kinda looks like a 51. So, they're mikuni jets then.

I'm guessing the 160 on the main air jet equates to 1.6 mm. Stock from manual says 1.7 mm. Is this right?

You have a main air jet and a pilot air jet on the intake side of your carbs.

One is a press in jet that is not changed or removed...thats the main air jet which according to the chart measures 1.7mm stock.

The pilot air jet IS removable and is identified by a # ie 170 stock. for the 82 750T.


Mikuni pilot air jets sizes are the same as Dynojet. [SIZE=-1]DynoJet jets are marked according to the diameter of the hole in the [/SIZE][SIZE=-1]jet .. ie: DJ150 = 1.5mm and DJ175 = 1.75mm[/SIZE][SIZE=-1].[/SIZE] So, yeah a 160 pilot jet would be 1.6mm.


Nic

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Thank you Nic. Please pardon my confusion about which jets we were speaking of.

I was obviously talking about the main fuel jets.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[kelticsol]

OK, so I went to the dealer. THey everything but a 42.5 for the pilot. So, I had to order them. They were $10 for 4 of them.

Just a quick question though. The description was KBS30/96 #42.5. These are the ones I need, right? The direct Suzi was 8 bucks for one of them. Checked Mikuni catalog. Voila. There they were. Checked size and threading to a 40 mikuni. I just hope I didn't buy the wrong thing.

 

[Patman]

How did you make out getting that stripped pilot jet out. I had 2 in my carbs and I just left them as is.

 

[kelticsol]

Left handed drill bits, heat, penetrating oil. I tried a torx, "hammer the screwdriver in" method, but in the end it was the heat and drill. And LOTS of patience. I did manage to strip the first layer of thread on it but I tested it afterwards with a spare jet to check for fit.
I was having some idling problems. I knew I wanted it out to get it properly cleaned. I'd say if you aren't having any issues to just leave them in there. But if you start having problems, I'd look to get those out for sure. It would be best to get them out, of course. But the gamble you take is that you'll bugger up the body and have to track down a new body.

 

[Patman]

That's what I was thinking too. It would be nice to get them out but like you said, I could do more harm then good. Thanks and good luck with yours.

 

[niclpnut]

Left handed drill bits, heat, penetrating oil. I tried a torx, "hammer the screwdriver in" method, but in the end it was the heat and drill. And LOTS of patience. I did manage to strip the first layer of thread on it but I tested it afterwards with a spare jet to check for fit.
I was having some idling problems. I knew I wanted it out to get it properly cleaned. I'd say if you aren't having any issues to just leave them in there. But if you start having problems, I'd look to get those out for sure. It would be best to get them out, of course. But the gamble you take is that you'll bugger up the body and have to track down a new body.

Should be the right jets.

Nic

 

[kelticsol]

If I ever make it out to visit my brother I'm going to try to meet up with you. He lives somewhere near KC. You deserve a Guinness or other beverage of your choice.

Edit instead of shameless bump:

I think I am going to try to replace the #1 Body. I stripped the top thread. THe jet still went in there and set fairly well but I'm thinking to much about it vibrating out or something worse. In the event that I sell this bike I don't want the next owner to have to deal with it if the pilot jet snaps again.

 

[niclpnut]

Welcome the company

Keep talking to blowerbike. He'll set you up if he's got one.

 

[kelticsol]

Pretty sure I have the new carb lined out.

Question regarding the dipping: After dipping in Berryman's, then dipping in hot water, then spraying it down with Carb Cleaner, I noticed some oxide inside the fuel inlet passage (The large holes on the side that feed towards the Needle and fill the bowls). I asked a car friend of mine what to do about this. His suggestion was to dip in kerosene. I have no access to an air compressor to really dry these out. I think the issue is when they dry they take too long and it allows the oxide to form.
I've also added a step to the process. I lightly sprayed some WD40 on the bodies and through the passages. I'll check the status of the last carb tonight when I get home.

Would a hair dryer work to dry these quicker?

 

[Guest]

There's a few threads on here talking about that same issue - seems to be worse on some carb bodies than others.

The Al/Zn material they're made out of seems to be prone to getting that white, chalky layer on them after exposure to the carb dip. Mine get it too, to varying degrees across the differnt carb bodies.

No "one-answer" as to how to remove or minimize it, but most here will simply wash the carbs throughly with soap & water after dipping. Spray with carb spray cleaner as well. You really should blast compressed air through all those passages to make sure they're clean too.

The WD40 coating seems like a good way to slow the surfaces form oxidizing - shouldn't hurt anything, the gas will just wash it away.