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cold, cold blooded stock 85 Gs1150

  • Thread starter Thread starter Katarat
  • Start date Start date
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Katarat

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I just picked up a bone stock 85 Gs1150, runs good when warmed up but its the cold bloodiest thing Ive ever seen. It has stock exhausts. Just curious if you would start out with richer pilots or go richer on the idle mixture screws. Is this normal on them or should I go thru the carbs, it has set for a while. I just picked it up today. Thanks for the help
 
Katarat said:
I just picked up a bone stock 85 Gs1150, runs good when warmed up but its the cold bloodiest thing Ive ever seen. It has stock exhausts. Just curious if you would start out with richer pilots or go richer on the idle mixture screws. Is this normal on them or should I go thru the carbs, it has set for a while. I just picked it up today. Thanks for the help
Click to expand...
Go through the carbs, they are almost certainly at least a little gummed up.
Go one size up on the pilots while you're in there.
 
From the July 1982 Cycle World:

"...Suzukis as a group need a lot of choke fiddling during the first minute or two after startup. "
 
I wouldnt go up in the jetting till you have done the rebuild per the tutorial. If, after youve rebuilt them, you have a lot of trouble, THEN start jet swapping. Be mindful the proper way to start a GS is as follows:: Be sure the carbs are primed if it has sat for a longer time, full choke, hands off the throttle and hit the button. RPMS will jump up around 3,000ish with the choke on fully. just slowly back off the choke till it is maintaining around 1200 and let it warm up.

If you havent found this yet, heres the rebuild tutorial.S And surf the entire website and youll find many links and other useful info.

http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/mc_maint/GS_CV_Carb_Cleaning_Series.pdf
 
I gotta disagree on "don't mess with the jetting yet", or "naturally cold blooded" comments. Makes it sound like that behavior is somehow inherent to the basic design of the bike. It's just jetting.
Virtually all carbed bikes built from the late '70s on have very lean slow speed circuits to pass emissions regs. They all benefit from going up one size on the pilots, and setting the fuel screws properly. Faster warm up, less low speed surging and bucking, and smoother on/off throttle transitions. Makes daily use much more pleasant.
 
Rich...would you take nitro pills before you were diagnosed with a heart problem? Of course not. He just picked the bike up and makes no mention of doing any maintenance. Funny thing how NO maintenance can make symptoms..HMMMM. A proper feel cant be made unless and until the maintenance is done and THEN you have the right starting point to draw conclusions...not jumping the gun and throwing parts at what may not need parts at all. Fools folly.
 
Its just jetting AFTER all the maintenace is done and the symptoms persist or worsen.
 
Did you read my first post?? Completely agree that carbs should be gone through, I said that. Not advocating fixing gummed up carbs by changing jetting.
My point is that the "symptoms" are there in a perfectly maintained stock bike, because the stock jetting was driven by emissions regs, not because it produced the best running bike. Why leave it that way?? Especially if you're in the carbs anyway to clean them??
 
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Rich,
I can agree with that. But only one size larger. As a motor gets older and the compression gets lower it will need to be richened up some also.
 
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And, ... as much as I advocate cleaning the carbs, "cold-bloodedness" is a CLASSIC sign of tight valves.

1. Clean the carbs (that would be the full "strip-and-dip, and change the o-rings" method of cleaning)

2. While the carbs are in "the dip", adjust the valves

3. When everything is back together, do a vacuum sync on the carbs and fine-tune the mixtures.

I'll bet you probably won't need to do anything else.
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What was the stock CV jetting per the manual for the bike?? Is his 17.5 already a step up??? And another thing that can make the CVs run rich is bad sealing rubber caps over the pilot jet towers.
 
Steve said:
And, ... as much as I advocate cleaning the carbs, "cold-bloodedness" is a CLASSIC sign of tight valves.

1. Clean the carbs (that would be the full "strip-and-dip, and change the o-rings" method of cleaning)

2. While the carbs are in "the dip", adjust the valves

3. When everything is back together, do a vacuum sync on the carbs and fine-tune the mixtures.

I'll bet you probably won't need to do anything else.
tongue.gif.pagespeed.ce.aK_TK6uv0P.gif


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Click to expand...

What he said with a complete tune up you know plugs and air filter also and a oil change. And while the carbs are off do a compression test too just to know.
Rich and Chuck are saying the same thing just different ways to fix it. I feel that once the carbs are off the carbs should be jetted one size larger unless he lives in the mountain or above 3500' then he should be fine with stock jetting.
But we are only talking a little change and the bike was made with the jetting close enough to keep it stock with nothing but a little hp loss and a little more heat. Man when I say it that way it sounds bad. I live at 10' above sea level so I run richer jets than some others do.

Chuck,
we used to call that screw the altitude adjustment screw or fuel screw and it will affect the entire throttle position if you open it up to much it will richened up the main circuit also that is why you only need to open it up a little to fix the lean factory setting and you could turn it back in a little if you ride in the mountains or in Florida summers without re jetting to keep the best air fuel mix.
 
Katrat,
it seams you have the ability to decide wether or not to decide to re jet or not. It all depends on if you want every last bit of power and the bike to run a bit cooler or not. If your happy with how it run after it warms up then leave it be. But do all the maintance mentioned. Otherwise re jet it.
 
dynajet always had you stay with stock pilots and richen up on the mixture screws.
i always did what they recommended with great results.
 
I'll throw another thought into the ring. My 1100 was very hard to start when the coil voltage was low (about 10.5v). If fact it needed starter fluid to start. You call that cold blooded?

after doing the coil relay the bike started instantly despite the brutal winters in SB.
 
I live in Billings Mt at 3750 ft elevation. My "this years" riding is down to days as in any day it will be over. Thanks for the tips. Ill check & set the valves, do the carbs with new o-rings, new plugs , balance the carbs, see how it runs then try the screws first. Thanks for the ideas guys don't get in a war over this, I appreciate the help as always
 
If you happen to do all this before the snow gets too deep, rest assured that if you give it a healthy dose of fuel stabilizer (Sta-bil is preferred in my garage), it will be sitting there, patiently waiting for you to wake it up in the spring.

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Yes Jim..thanks for that reminder..corroded connections in the harness AND ESPECIALLY the harness ground loops make things a BEOTCH!!!. Do all the maintenance, carbs etc etc and still persitant problems. Reclean carbs and more tail chasing till the connections are serviced. Thanks for the reminder.
 
We never go to war. The others just dont know when to admit i makes sense and try to follow a path of logical diagnosis and systematic repair. LOL
 
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