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cold, cold blooded stock 85 Gs1150

  • Thread starter Thread starter Katarat
  • Start date Start date
I use the Storage Stabil in a full tank over the winter but Ive had better luck draining the carbs and removing & blocking the fuel line from the fuel valve
 
The starting procedure chuck mentions is not a good one either.

Motor for 5-10 seconds with throttle closed, stop then pull out choke, hit the start button and immediately go to half choke.

Starting full choke on an engine that has sat for awhile like that is asking for oil starvation issues. Motoring will prime the oil system to ensure that does not happen.
 
The starting procedure chuck mentions is not a good one either.

Motor for 5-10 seconds with throttle closed, stop then pull out choke, hit the start button and immediately go to half choke.

Starting full choke on an engine that has sat for awhile like that is asking for oil starvation issues. Motoring will prime the oil system to ensure that does not happen.

You have to love some of the international dialect and terminology on these forums.:highly_amused:

I'm assuming that by "motoring" you mean turning the engine over using the starter. If this is correct, then I would be a little leery of cranking the starter motor for 10 seconds at a time every time you start the engine cold. Sure, you wont have oil starvation problems, but you will be replacing starter motors rather often.:sorrow:
 
Speaking of cold starts its about to start getting cold here in Oklahoma. Motorcycle newbie here looking for winter storage tips other than fuel stabilizer for my 1980 gs750e.
 
Drain the carbs, remove fuel line to carbs & plug, install short piece of plugged fuel line to petcock, change oil & filter, fill fuel tank with alcohol free gas, & install 2-3 oz Stabil Storage fuel stabilizer
 
You have to love some of the international dialect and terminology on these forums.:highly_amused:

I'm assuming that by "motoring" you mean turning the engine over using the starter. If this is correct, then I would be a little leery of cranking the starter motor for 10 seconds at a time every time you start the engine cold. Sure, you wont have oil starvation problems, but you will be replacing starter motors rather often.:sorrow:

Not for every start, chuck said if the bike sat for a long time. Such as first start of the year after sitting for the winter for instance. Or the first time you go to start a newly purchased basket case.

And you are correct, certainly would burn up starters if it was for every start. That being said I motor mine for about 3 seconds before flicking on the kill switch because of the high compression to avoid starter clutch destruction!

cheers
 
One thing that's worth considering right out of the box is shimming the needles. Makes a noticeable difference in cold driveability.
 
If I had an email address I could forward someone the picture & they could post it. Short of that Im dead in the water
 
That being said I motor mine for about 3 seconds before flicking on the kill switch because of the high compression to avoid starter clutch destruction!
Somebody has done some re-wiring to your 'kill' switch.
As they come from the factory, GSes will not crank with the 'kill' switch in the OFF position.


If I had an email address I could forward someone the picture & they could post it. Short of that Im dead in the water
Click on my username in the upper left corner, there is a link there to my e-mail. Send me the picture, I will post it for you.

.
 
OK, here is your bike.
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GS1150_zpscdb56d0a.jpg


.
 
OP, sweet looking bike!!!

Speaking of cold starts its about to start getting cold here in Oklahoma. Motorcycle newbie here looking for winter storage tips other than fuel stabilizer for my 1980 gs750e.

Bigeasy, where at in Oklahoma? I'm in OKC area.



My bike starts in 50* weather with no choke at all... Is that bad? If I go full choke it never revs up to 3000 rpm, just stays at 1000 rpm or kills it.
 
Rob
I bought an 85 GS1150 and it is the smoothest running motorcycle I've ever had.
It's all in how you tune them. (Sync carbs/valve clearance....)
 
+5 on the Stabil treatment. BUT... I would leave the carbs and fuel line full. Just make sure to take her for a good ride after adding Stabil to ensure it is in all of the proper places... If you just drain the gas out of the carbs the remaining gas (cuz you can't get it all) will still varnish and clog things up. Also, leaving them dry like that will dry out all of the gaskets and o-ring inside. The stabil will prevent ALL of the above from happening. I haven't had to rebuild my carbs for 5 years, and she sits for 4-5 months every winter. In the spring I just crank it (motor it) for a few seconds and then "enrichener" warm it and GO... Haven't had issues. Stabil is GREAT stuff...
 
Rob
I bought an 85 GS1150 and it is the smoothest running motorcycle I've ever had.
It's all in how you tune them. (Sync carbs/valve clearance....)

Still, the 1150s came with bar end weights...

I guess I'll have to ride one to find out.
 
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