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Cylinders 2-3 arent firing follow up 77 gs750

  • Thread starter Thread starter hkspwrsche
  • Start date Start date
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hkspwrsche

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From this thread:
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=170572

ok new developement. It seems I was doing this the hard way. All the coils are firing. I guess the assumption I made was due to the 2-3 coil set up as one coil. I'm getting a nice blue spark out of the 2-3 coil wires through the plug.

I did get the 2-3 coil to fire and run the 1-4 cylinders on the swap. The problem didn't move and the coils and spark on both are fine.

Did you swap the coils? yes

Did the problem move with the coil? no

Do you have good spark on all 4 plugs now? yes and may have before but made an assumption earlier because it is both 2-3 not firing

Do you have points or an aftermarket ignition? Points ignition

http://i817.photobucket.com/albums/zz96/hkspwrsche/IMAG0195.jpg

So where do I head next? 2-3 cylinders not firing but I have spark at all coils.. Should we move this into the Engine diag area or should I try something else first?
 
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Your repeated posts on the same issue without a response to the issues raised in the previous posts, are making your problem just about impossible to follow.

Did you swap the coils?

Did the problem move with the coil?

Do you have good spark on all 4 plugs now?

Do you have points or an aftermarket ignition?
 
When I swapped coils I swapped the signal and the plug wires from one set to the other. Was that the correct way to swap? Otherwise I thought the signal would be off and it wouldnt fire, right?
 
If you swapped the electrical connections than you didn't test the coils themselves. You need to swap the spark plug wires to see if the problem follows. Unless I am missing something from your original posts as well.

With that said, it's a lot easier to keep one thread for the specific problem and reply back to people's posts than it is to start a subsequent thread.
 
From this thread:
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=170572

ok new developement. It seems I was doing this the hard way. All the coils are firing. I guess the assumption I made was due to the 2-3 coil set up as one coil. I'm getting a nice blue spark out of the 2-3 coil wires throuhg the plug.
On a spearate note I 'm trying to diag the starter since that is making this other diag harder.

So where do I head next? Should we move this into the Engine diag area or should I try something else first?
I thrive on confusion! So, all plugs are firing and maybe at right time if you managed to hook plug wires up correctly!
What's the starter problem- some noise, no noise, any clicking????
 
I thrive on confusion! So, all plugs are firing and maybe at right time if you managed to hook plug wires up correctly!
What's the starter problem- some noise, no noise, any clicking????


found starter traced to bad connection to solenoid on the yellow/gr wire :D
 
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If you swapped the electrical connections than you didn't test the coils themselves. You need to swap the spark plug wires to see if the problem follows. Unless I am missing something from your original posts as well.

With that said, it's a lot easier to keep one thread for the specific problem and reply back to people's posts than it is to start a subsequent thread.



only fires on the 1-4 no matter which coil I use to fire it.
 
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It is a wasted spark system so swapping the wires 1 for 4, or 2 for 3 Will have no effect on timing
 
ok well whether I use one coil or the other it only fires on the 1-4
 
Points system is that helps anyone.
IMAG0195.jpg
 
BigT if I understand your reply, even if all the coils fire fine but 2-3 cylinders have no combustion and arent getting warm I should replace the points system first?
 
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BigT if I understand your reply, even if all the coils fire fine but 2-3 cylinders have no combustion and arent getting warm I should replace the points system first?

Okay, I was confused whether you had a good spark on all 4 plugs, so no, go with what you've got

Check the timing -sparking at the wrong time is as bad, or worse, than not sparking at all

Then check the points while it's running, with the lights out - sparking around the points? (this is bad)

If the timing is good and no spark at points (which is how it should be, the condensors absorb the spark),

then, it spark, fuel, air

We've solved the spark issue (hopefully), there's plenty of air, your 2-3 carbs may be clogged (?)
 
I'm going to borrow a timing light to be sure but, it seems when I do the static timing on the 1-4 and 2-3 I cant get the light to turn out when I rotate the plate.
I set to the "I" mark before f1 and then loosened the plate and rotate both directions and the light wont turn out. Only turns out when I rotate the engine far enough. IF I understand the static timing correctly It's not able to get close. I'm basing my static timing on this:
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/electrical_odd-n-ends.html#A18

So I'll try again with a timing light to be sure.

Hate to roll the dice with $133 but maybe the dyna s would be a good shot in the dark here anyway. I did have a little sparking where the points connect that I could see when I turned off the garage light.
 
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Any ideas why the static timing wouldn't adjust? I'm still considering getting a dyna s from z1 but, I hate to have more trouble and not have established a base line with the stock set up first.
 
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Well I had to use .35mm at the widest point. Mine wasnt in thousands of an inch? I'll double check that when I get home tonight.


Guess if I get a nice dyna s no points gap to set! I'm going to keep working to get a baseline first and then install the upgrade.

Thanks,
Harold
 
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Well I had to use .35mm at the widest point. Mine wasnt in thousands of an inch? I'll double check that when I get home tonight.


Guess if I get a nice dyna s no points gap to set! I'm going to keep working to get a baseline first and then install the upgrade.

Thanks,
Harold

I know others have had trouble getting the static timing set correctly, but I can't remember what they were doing wrong

Do a Search and see what you get

Or, better yet, if you can get timing light, see what that shows you
 
Only times I've had trouble with static timing was when the point gaps weren't set correctly on both points. So if 1 & 4 gap is a bit out the plate uses up all it's "play" for the timing of them and then your stuffed for 2 & 3 even if you set their gap correctly
 
Well I had to use .35mm at the widest point. Mine wasnt in thousands of an inch? I'll double check that when I get home tonight.

.35mm is close enough

Double check the gap and try again

And remember to rotate the crank clockwise as you test
 
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