• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Drilling CV Carb Slide Holes and Driveability

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
G

Guest

Guest
I have an 1983 Suzuki GS650. I have the DJ Stage 3 kit and drilled the slides. Never rode the bike stock, so nothing to compare to, but it seems that the driveability sucks. Very abrupt on/off throttle with almost no transition in between, so when navigating roundabouts I have to use the clutch to help feather the throttle so it's not hard accel or hard decel.

Do you think this might be the result of drilling out the slide?

And if so, does anyone know the stock size of the hole on a 650? I plan on using JB Weld and drilling to stock diameter.

Thanks!
 
".. so when navigating roundabouts I have to use the clutch to help feather the throttle so it's not hard accel or hard decel."

you must have some interesting roundabouts - I find myself mostly off throttle navigating them, so the slides are likely drooping! My spare carb set has about .090 drill hole thru slide.
I can't see the size of slide hole as causing this problem, but let's see what others think.
 
you must have some interesting roundabouts

Ha, they are normal roundabouts. The main issue is coming into the roundabout slightly on the throttle. Trying to roll off the throttle in the turn, the bike acts as if I just hit the brakes. Hard to explain, but maybe this is even normal. I guess I just haven't had this finicky of throttle on a bike before.

My spare carb set has about .090 drill hole thru slide.

Awesome, thank you!!
 
WOW. So it turns out I'm a bleeping moron (doesn't surprise me). I drilled out the slide holes with the 5/32 bit that was provided with the kit, but that was meant for removing the cap over the pilot screw. The drill bit meant for drilling out the slides is still in the wrapping! Off to buy some JB weld in shame...
 
Well we'll see what happens when I get them back to the stock diameter. But I think with holes this large, it would limit the amount of vacuum pulling the slide up. But honestly I've given up on trying to figure out exactly how these CV carbs work.
 
Well we'll see what happens when I get them back to the stock diameter. But I think with holes this large, it would limit the amount of vacuum pulling the slide up. But honestly I've given up on trying to figure out exactly how these CV carbs work.

Im not sure how exactly they work either, but I understand that making the holes bigger actually speed up how fast they open. On the Dynojet GSXR kit I have they actually use inserts to make the slide holes smaller to slow down the opening speed.
 
WOW. So it turns out I'm a bleeping moron (doesn't surprise me). I drilled out the slide holes with the 5/32 bit that was provided with the kit, but that was meant for removing the cap over the pilot screw. The drill bit meant for drilling out the slides is still in the wrapping! Off to buy some JB weld in shame...

You're not the only one...... I did the same years ago.....
 
The JB Weld is curing right now. Should I redrill a new hole instead of drilling through the JB Weld? It seems the location of the hole shouldn't matter, as long as I don't drill into one of the holes where the tabs of the plastic cap thing go.
 
Well we'll see what happens when I get them back to the stock diameter. But I think with holes this large, it would limit the amount of vacuum pulling the slide up. But honestly I've given up on trying to figure out exactly how these CV carbs work.
It does not limit the amount of vacuum, it actually speeds the transfer of vacuum, letting the slides move faster, when they do move. It does not make them move any sooner, just the transition time is less.


Should I redrill a new hole instead of drilling through the JB Weld? It seems the location of the hole shouldn't matter, as long as I don't drill into one of the holes where the tabs of the plastic cap thing go.
I would not say the location of the hole is "critical", but you have to realize that it was in that place for a reason. Also keep in mind that the original hole was at an angle, not parallel to the needle. It was directly downstream from the needle, there might have been a reason for that, I don't know.

.
 
Ah, this is the mistake I made. Looking at this image, I assumed this is how our CV carbs functioned.

hqdefault.jpg

Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wyspAHrMbb8

But the only way air comes in and out above the diaphragm is from the hole in the slide. So yeah, it makes total sense that a larger hole will just mean a faster reacting (and possibly fluttering) slide.

I think I'm going to drill the OEM size hole just to the side of the hole plugged with JB Weld, at the correct angle. And then I'm going to return my jetting back to DJ160 and three notches down on the needle, since I've been chasing down a stumble on part throttle, which still might be there with my velocity stacks and all :-\\\
 
Ah, this is the mistake I made. Looking at this image, I assumed this is how our CV carbs functioned.

View attachment 47156

Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wyspAHrMbb8

But the only way air comes in and out above the diaphragm is from the hole in the slide. So yeah, it makes total sense that a larger hole will just mean a faster reacting (and possibly fluttering) slide.

I think I'm going to drill the OEM size hole just to the side of the hole plugged with JB Weld, at the correct angle. And then I'm going to return my jetting back to DJ160 and three notches down on the needle, since I've been chasing down a stumble on part throttle, which still might be there with my velocity stacks and all :-\\\

I believe that when you fix the hole size, it'll make the part throttle mixture richer and may fix that stumble.
 
I may be wrong, but I think there is also a vent in the topside of the carb body to give it an atmospheric reference.
 
Last edited:
I called up Dynojet to get a replacement e-clip. I recall that I had lost one so I replaced it with one from the hardware store that is close in size, but it has a slight wave to it due to it being a little small. I swear I'm a better mechanic than I sound! :)

Anyways, the guy from Dynojet recommend just drilling through the JB Weld. I'll do that later tonight and post back the results when I get the carbs put back together. Thanks everyone for the help!
 
Well what is a thread without pictures...

First time using JB Weld. Thought it would be more of a liquid, so the syringe method didn't work all that well.

IMG_20160823_215444_zpsfa3n7crd.jpg


Didn't let the JB Weld cure long enough before trying to drill, so I drilled it all out and filled it with Permatex Steel Weld which sets up faster. Went with larger syringes which worked well, but it hardened before I could get to the last two so I just stuffed it in there.

I'm leaving the epoxied holes alone and drilled on the opposite side. Based on the internals it doesn't seem to matter where they are drilled. However, I should have triple checked the drilling location because they definitely aren't out towards the edge as much as stock. They are drilled at an angle though. Side note, you can see just how massive that 5/32" hole is in comparison :shakes head:

IMG_20160824_214349_zpsqy2l5upv.jpg


IMG_20160824_214423_zpsc5azdbbs.jpg


I'm going to toss these in after cleaning them up tonight or tomorrow and see if they work. Otherwise a gracious member offered to sell me his correctly drilled slides from when he ran a dynojet kit.
 
Personally, I found out the hard way the drinking and wrenching don't mix. I was drinking when I incorrectly drilled my slides. I wasn't a mess, but apparently had enought to not pay full attention to the task at hand. Since that night in '99, I'll take a celebratory drink when im finished and admire the coolness that is my bike, but not during.

No intention to preach, just my personal experience.
 
That was the only beer I had, unfortunately. But sometimes I need a little liquid courage. I tend to overthink EVERYTHING, so I don't get anything accomplished. So sometimes a few beers help me say "screw it", and I just get it done.
 
Understood. Everyone has their own process. I never thought of JB ing mine, I ended up buying another used set to the tune of $400. To add to insult, the first set the cycle salvage sent were wrong. They made it right, but cost me more time. It was a lesson well taught.
 
Eek! $400. Granted, I probably spent close to $300 rebuilding and re-jetting mine, with some more on top if I have to buy some new slides.
 
Back
Top