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Drive chains revisited

It's heavy weight gear oil, just like the shafty boys use in thier G's. Just like what we should be using to lube our chains with. Get it clean, get it hot, rub gear oil all over it and let it sit overnight. Wipe off the excess and you have a well lubed chain. I do that every 3000 miles and my chains pretty much always are clean and quiet.

Lithium based grease begins to breaks down after it gets wet. Petrolium based gear oil does not.
 
Footy. said:
On a side note, my haynes manual quotes this `50-50 ATF, motor oil' for the forks.

What is the modern fork oil equivilent viscosity, or recommendation?

Regards.

Footy.


Footy, I just changed my fork oil with Bel-ray 15 wt. They sell a variety of different weight fork oils:

http://www.belray.com/consumer/productpages/hpfo.html

My understanding is that the thicker the oil, the heavier the dampening. Im a light fella, so i used a relatively thin oil.
As you will see on the website, Bel-ray says you can mix different weights for fine tuning.

Cant say what the recomendation for your forks may be, as im not sure if they are the same for all, but i think my Clymer manual said 20w.
 
I just put the Bel-Ray in also- man that stuff is pricy! I'm in the wrong buisness.

My manual said 15wt and KGB also suggested 15wt so that's what I got.
 
I was told by a trusted source to use an X-ring on my bike or just use a standard chain. He didn't elaborate but it kind of goes along with that artical Joe. I have decided a while ago on the X-ring.

Besides, the one I am getting has gold links and is sexy :D
 
Joe Nardy said:
first timer said:
hey joe, i thought you were going to go 530 on your bike.

-ryan

I was but ended up getting a great deal on an OEM front sprocket on eBay and was able to get an OEM rear from the local dealer so I decided to stay with the 630. I'll be doing the whole deal for about $135. My sprockets are original with over 30,000 miles on them so I don't see any reason to try something else.

Joe

See Ryan, even the Nardster likey the 630 setup. Why? Ask your local holy man....630 rules, all your wimpy 530 chain belong to us! HAhahaHAhahaha.......ah.ah..... :lol:
 
I love that web movie - All your bass belong to us! What a classic, but I guess you had to be there :D

-jon
 
down with 630, you would think you are try to make up for sumtin :roll: by useing such a BIG chain. us real men have no problems using 530 chain.

-ryan
 
A bit late to this debate, but have a little info to pass on....



How often do you actually clean and lube your chain? I do mine every other weekend in the summer, and every 4-6 weeks in the winter, depending on how often I'm riding.

I've averaged ~18K miles over the last 2 years, and have yet to see any significant wear on the chain or sprockets I had installed 2 years ago February. 5 rear and 3 front tires, granted - but the same chain and sprockets.

Usually on a Friday evening in preparation for a Saturday ride - get home from work, put her on the rear stand over a piece of cardboard, spray the chain and rear sprocket liberally with WD40, take off the primary cover and do the same to the front sprocket.

Have cold beer, contemplate having another...

Clean goop out of the primary cover, wipe off sprocket. With bike in neutral, wipe goop off of chain until she's shiny, do same for rear sprocket and wheel. Put the primary cover back on, start the bike, and ease the clutch out in first gear to let the chain warm up. Bike off, back in neutral, and slowly spin the rear tire while applying chain lube between links and outside plates, then between links and sprocket teeth - outside first, then inside. Keep spinning wheel by hand until the lube is set, then re-clean the rear wheel with a rag moistened with WD40.

Have another beer, pat self on back - check fluids, tires, electrics ,suspension, and anticipate tomorrow's ride.


PJ1 blue label works for me. AND - for clip-link chains, get some safety wire and silicone. After you put the link together, safety wire the clip in place (around the side plate of the link), twisting the wire on the outside of the link. Snip off the tail at about 3/8". Fold the tail back flush agains the clip, and put a dab of silicone on it to keep it in place. There's enough play between the sprocket and chain that the safety wire will never touch the sprocket, but it will keep the clip in place. Got that one from a serious track hound I ride with....


-Q!
 
first timer said:
down with 630, you would think you are try to make up for sumtin :roll: by useing such a BIG chain. us real men have no problems using 530 chain.

-ryan


:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
AND - for clip-link chains, get some safety wire and silicone. After you put the link together, safety wire the clip in place (around the side plate of the link), twisting the wire on the outside of the link. Snip off the tail at about 3/8". Fold the tail back flush agains the clip, and put a dab of silicone on it to keep it in place. There's enough play between the sprocket and chain that the safety wire will never touch the sprocket, but it will keep the clip in place. Got that one from a serious track hound I ride with....

interesting idea. I abaonded clips after I had one shear off one time on the old 550. I went with the rivet on type and it wasn't too bad with 2 people and an air hammer.

as for cleaning the chain...gosh I really don't do that. I lube it up every once in a while, and keep an eye on it, but everything looks good. It's only a year old now.

The use of WD40 to clean a chain is only reccomended on non-oring chains because the WD40 will penetrate the o-ring an disolve the grease.

~Adam
 
Joe Nardy said:
By the way, the website mentioned above claims that X-ring chains are significantly better at retaining the original grease due to the much better seal the X-rings have against the plates. Does anyone have experience with X-ring chains?

Joe


Joe, Ive had an RK 530XSO X Ring chain and new sprokets (15/40) on my GS750 for 14000Km now. No adjustments at all as yet, the chain hasnt stretched at all and I ride hard.

It seems to be wearing much better compared to the previously used RK530SO O ring. Easiest explanation is that the X ring gives 2 surface seals on each side instead of one on an O ring.

I also use the Motul chain clean sprayed onto the inside of the chain (the sproket mating side) and then wipe it down and wait 5 mins, then apply Motul factory line chain lube. Ive never had any problems with this process on either X or O ring chains.

Go to the RK site to see the comparison:
http://www.rk-excel.co.jp/english/tech/chain_spec_200406.pdf
 
Oh, so this is where the thread I wanted ended up. I'm getting better at getting Search to return the results I want. :)

Judging from "The Truth About Motorcycle Chains" and what I've read here, I think I will go with a non-sealed standard chain with a high tensile strength. It looks like the DID and RK chains are really good deals in this department.

It's only a GS450, after all, and I'm a fair-weather rider, not to mention I know I'll be smothering the chain in PJ1 often. I have a can of Blue, but PJ1 says Black is better for non-sealed chains. Hmm... :roll:
 
YES! Shafties do rule! If the rear shaft goes out (rare) it's actually cheaper to buy a 2nd hand shaft drive than new chain & sprockets.
 
630 chain

630 chain

i have a GS750Ex. Did the 630 come stock on the GS bikes because i think the 630 chain is too big for my bike its rubbing on the swing arm it left a .030" groove and ground the swingarm bearing cap to nothing im going to go with a 530 non oring chain since im not going to ride the 750 in the rain (that's what my gs 450Lz is for, witch only has a 520 non selaed chain with 22,000 thousand miles on the sprockets and 8,500miles on the chain i use
P J-1 Heavy duty BLACK lable very messy/sticky but it works good.

The 630 chain has 96 links with 15 tooth front sprocket and a 41 tooth rear i want to convert to a 530 chain with a 16 tooth sprocket front 41 rear how much longer chain do i need :?:
 
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