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FET r/r questions.

OK, makes sense, however, my connections were soldered in the old regulator, and soldered again on the new one (sans the connectors engulfed in epoxy) unless they are warm to the touch, I doubt replacing Duanage's new connectors will make that much difference, if at all, because they are new.
 
propflux01 said:
I have worked in aviation going on 22 years. I (and others in my trade) consider myself qualified enough at it to be called a professional. ...

I think my work speaks for itself. Haven't had one fall out of the sky yet. ...

... when I work on something I strive to ensure that every detail is checked and checked twice, and if I don't know, I will research or ask. Aviation is no place to be lax, and I could never live with the thought of someone losing their life because of what I had done.
Click to expand...
I know how you feel. I also have people's lives in my hands at times. I repair and calibrate patient-care equipment in hospitals, so a doctor's diagnosis can depend on what "my" machines are telling him. If they are not calibrated correctly, an incorrect diagnosis is possible, and that can have some serious implications. Not as dramatic as having an airplane fall out of the sky, but just as serious.

Back to the r/r:
I have ordered a new wiring harness from Eastern Beaver. Thought about getting just the connectors, but decided to spring for the entire harness. It includes the connectors that plug in to the r/r, connectors for both sides of the stator to r/r junction and a fuse in the line to the battery. Received an e-mail this morning saying that it had been shipped, so now we'll see how quick the shipping is from Japan.

In the meantime, I will try some new connectors between the stator and r/r to see if that might help. They are the only parts that are not new, although they are only about a year old.

.
 
Wonder what difference, if any, it would make to temporarily mount the new R/R out in the wind vise tucked up under the battery box ? I know that these newer R/R don't necessarily require it but, it would be worth a try. Except you have to dig it out from under the battery box again.

I was also thinking about the extra lights on that bike..think it has any effect on this problem ?

Nice meeting you and your wife yesterday. Griffin and I got home safe. I cleaned up the "new" engine a little and did some more inspecting. Found broken exhaust bolt, gas in the oil and some of the wiring was barely hanging in there. Should get it all fixed up by the end of the week or so and in the bike. Hope you get your charging gremlins identified.:)
 
Larry D said:
Wonder what difference, if any, it would make to temporarily mount the new R/R out in the wind vise tucked up under the battery box ? I know that these newer R/R don't necessarily require it but, it would be worth a try. Except you have to dig it out from under the battery box again.

I was also thinking about the extra lights on that bike..think it has any effect on this problem ?
Click to expand...

Did you see my earlier post?
Steve said:
Just got back from CafeKid's place. ... Got out my infrared thermometer, held it as close as I could to the r/r and got 115 degrees F. Considering it's not in direct air flow (under the battery box) and it's 90 degrees out, I don't think that's too warm.
Click to expand...
I don't think the problem is overheating. I also don't think the problem is the "extra lights". They are all LEDs, so the drain is minimal. To further the lack of suspicion of the lights, they were all installed and working when I got the 14.55 volt readings in the initial test. :-k

.
 
I know that you're meticulous when it comes to your bikes. Which makes this a perplexing problem. I just wish I understood the electrics better so I could help more.......:)
 
Larry D said:
I know that you're meticulous when it comes to your bikes. Which makes this a perplexing problem. I just wish I understood the electrics better so I could help more.......:)
Click to expand...

Measuring the voltage drop across the connections would help immeasurably in determining the source of the issue.

R/R (+) to Battery (+)
and
R/R (-) to Battery (-)

Without this you don't know if the voltage at the battery is dropping due to connections or is it is doing so due to a set point change at the R/R.

Measuring the voltage at the R/R output and at the battery is really two different things. Of course if your R/R is all epoxied up, then getting at the spade connections might be a Biatch :(
 
posplayr said:
Measuring the voltage at the R/R output and at the battery is really two different things. Of course if your R/R is all epoxied up, then getting at the spade connections might be a Biatch :(
Click to expand...

I seriously doubt the wire I used to to pigtail the connections would add to any resistance. They are only 6" long, then soldered into the stators/bikes electricals. In other words, it now looks like any other R/R that has 5 wires coming out of it. to check voltage all i had to do was measure it before I heat-shrinked the soldered connection. I hate plugs.
 
propflux01 said:
I seriously doubt the wire I used to to pigtail the connections would add to any resistance. They are only 6" long, then soldered into the stators/bikes electricals. In other words, it now looks like any other R/R that has 5 wires coming out of it. to check voltage all i had to do was measure it before I heat-shrinked the soldered connection. I hate plugs.
Click to expand...

As per the revised stator pages (I recently updated), the only way to be sure you don't have charging issues is to confirm the voltage drops between R/R and battery at 5000 RPM.

All the descriptions so far strongly suggest poor connections somewhere. :(


http://www.thegsresources.com/statorpapers4.php

Link to Revised PHASE A of Stator Pages:
 
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So what happened?

So what happened?

I was having some problems with a similar issue, and I was wondering if you used any dielectric grease on your contacts?

I am a firm believer in the use of the stuff, any time I find a bad connection in cars I've worked on, there was no dielectric grease used to prevent corrosion, so naturally the connectors corroded.

My electrical/electronics teacher way back in high school had a saying: "Blessed be God, and dielectric grease!"
Before he was a teacher, he was a service tech for G.E. building and upgrading transformer sub-stations, so I figure he knows a bit about electricity and connections.

Any electrical connection I make in either automotive, or in any other weather exposed situation, I always put a dab of dielectric grease on it. Be it LED pool lighting, or spark plug connections. I can sleep at night knowing my connections are safe from corrosion. This, in combination with soldering all wires into their connector end, after crimping, before connecting, and sealing the final connection in double-wall heatshrink, virtually eliminates the need to worry about electrical connections IMO.

Call it overkill, but connections on my car that I may have done...5 or 6 years ago, are as clean as they were the day I originally did them, because of it.

I tend to 1/2 fill female connector blocks with D.G. before final assembly of the harness. Any grease that oozes out of the connector, simply wipe off and use to fill the next connector. Just make sure your connector blocks are clean before filling them.
Brake clean works great in concert with judicious use of your significant others' nail file to "sand" the contacts in the block clean. (just don't put it back in her purse, ask me how I know!)

Just wondering if this might help ease your troubleshooting efforts in the future,

BTW, turns out one leg in my R/R is bad, have you diode checked the reg/rec on the headlight (3rd leg) connection from the stator? I was positive mine was bad, then remembered the "lights" switch on the left control was in the "OFF" position. Switched it on, only to find there was still no conductivity...nuts. And ALL of the connections on my bike have been treated as described above.
 
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