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ghetto manometer!

  • Thread starter Thread starter seuadr
  • Start date Start date
S

seuadr

Guest
so, we got my bike all together, fabbed up some exhaust for the middle two pipes from a 79 GS1000 and we thought, if only we could sync these carbs, right here, right now.

so we did a little thinking and reading, and decided to build our own ghetto manometer!

what we bought:

1 quart transmission fluid.
20 feet of 1/8th OD clear tubing
4 5m/25 machine thread bolts and nuts
1 yardstick

What we did:

100_0799.jpg

cut the tubing into two 10 foot peices, then tape the tubing to the yardstick, circling the bottom. next fill the tubes with ATF ( light gear oil should work fantastically, as well. level the amounts out between all 4 tubes, carefully pouring to help prevent bubbles ( you need to make sure there are no air bubbles, it will throw off the reading.

next, if you have the brass fittings, or a cheap way to obtain them, i would recommend that. If not, we took 4 m5 25 machine thread bolts and drilled out the centers of them, then tac welded the nuts about half way down to bolt, to fit the tubing on.

100_0801.jpg


next, thread the fittings into the vac holes ( having removed the allen head bolts ) and fit the tubing on.

next, just like you would with a normal sync tool, get the bike running and warm, then monitor the fluid levels. worked great for us, and cost about 6 dollars total. the ATF seems to be much more sensitive than mercury, we are going to test it later this week with a borrowed sync to see how close it reads.

http://s255.photobucket.com/albums/hh131/seuadr/?action=view&current=100_0802.flv

mine were WAAAAAAAAAYYYYYY out of whack as you can hear from the video, but we totally eliminated the off idle stumble, and although the plugs indicate it is just a hair lean, it ran like MAD once we were finished. enjoy!
 
What cylinders did you hook up the pairs to? I was thinking of doing 1-2, 1-3 and 1-4 using one tube abd #1 as the master.
Thanks
Steve
 
we tried it with one single master vaccum but ended up using it to sync 2 and 3, then 1 and 4 to 2 and 3. seemed to take less overall ajustments to get them all on the same page that way. i don't actually know WHY we chose those, a friend who has alot more experence made that choice. seemed to work good though! :)
 
now that it's running good, i can get my MSF course done and get it out here to my place so i can get it it looking as good as it runs :D
 
Any new news on how close it is?
not yet, i got caught up in the end of the semester. i'm going out there this weekend and hopefully we'll have a look. I live an hour away from where the bike is stored :P
 
What cylinders did you hook up the pairs to? I was thinking of doing 1-2, 1-3 and 1-4 using one tube abd #1 as the master.

we tried it with one single master vaccum but ended up using it to sync 2 and 3, then 1 and 4 to 2 and 3. seemed to take less overall ajustments to get them all on the same page that way. i don't actually know WHY we chose those, a friend who has alot more experence made that choice. seemed to work good though!
Could be that your friend might have known what he was doing?
Carb #3 is the "master" carb because that is the one directly connected to the throttle cable. The Suzuki manual says to sync #2 to #3, then set #1, and finally do #4. By doing pairs with your setup, you might have to go back and forth a couple of times to make sure that an adjustment does not affect the other readings.

It can be done, but there is still nothing like being able to see all four vacuum readings at the same time. 8-[

.
 
No reason you can't put four hoses together and do them all at once, for instance four tubes glued into holes in the lid of a baby food jar would work.

Get the peach stuff, it tastes great.
 
ghetto mano

ghetto mano

True, or you could use a couple of "t" connectors and tubes added to the u-shaped tube and you would have the ability to see all four at one time. I do mine with just the single tube and it works for me.
Lee
 
The reason the ATF appears to be more sensitive is that you're missing a part......restrictors. In your case I'd purchase an aquarium "gang-o'-four" regulator with adjustable needle valves. This allows you to dampen out the pulses and obtain a steady reading on each column.
 
. By doing pairs with your setup, you might have to go back and forth a couple of times to make sure that an adjustment does not affect the other readings.

yep, we found out doing 2 at a time is a pain, major ajustments to one pair means ajustments to the other. then he did them different and it seemed to work out much better. we used ATF but it gets sucked into the carbs fast if you don't have a light touch ( or if they are way off, like mine were ) i think in the future light gear oil might give a little better results, being just a little thicker.
 
I'm going to be making one of these for my new (to me) GS. Can anyone post a sketch of how to build one that can measure all 4 carbs at once? I just can't seem to visualize it using fluid gauges.
 
as they said before, if it's all 4 carbs at once you'll need T connectors and probably a regulator. you would take 4 tubes that are long, and 4 peices long enough to route to your vac port on each carb. take each of the 4 long lengths, put an equal amount of fluid into it, and then attach a T connector to each side. connect the second single length to the vac port to the ither side of the t, and then to the carb. rinse, repeat. i would think.( could be totally wrong. )
 
as they said before, if it's all 4 carbs at once you'll need T connectors and probably a regulator. you would take 4 tubes that are long, and 4 peices long enough to route to your vac port on each carb. take each of the 4 long lengths, put an equal amount of fluid into it, and then attach a T connector to each side. connect the second single length to the vac port to the ither side of the t, and then to the carb. rinse, repeat. i would think.( could be totally wrong. )

Or you could terminate all 4 in a can sitting at about the height you want to read your levels. Or in the quart of oil you're going to use, so you can drain it right back in there when you're done.
 
Dogma has the idea there, you really need each cylinder to pull againt a reservoir, not against another cylinder.

.
 
two tubes --> "T" fitting --> short tube --> "T" Fitting --> two tubes

hope that explains it.
 
Would this work? Make the vertical rise around 4 feet so that the engine won't suck the oil into it. In the picture below, the 4 tubes would be extended and attached to the intakes.

sync.jpg
 
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