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GS1000 clutch hub rebuild

  • Thread starter Thread starter 80GS1000
  • Start date Start date
8

80GS1000

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The GS1000 has had the (in)famous clutch rattle at idle since I bought it with about 30K miles on the clock. From reading in the forum archives this is caused by the clutch basket springs starting to sag and break up.

Cheaper option:

Replace existing clutch basket with lower mileage unit. Will this solve the rattling issue?

More expensive option:

Falicon makes a GS1000 clutch hub rebuild kit.

http://www.schnitzracingstore.com/catalogs/catalog.asp?prodid=327054&showprevnext=1

Does APE make a clutch hub rebuild kit anymore?

Where would be a good place to send out my clutch hub to get this rebuild kit installed? Apparently you need a press, a welder, and someone experienced to install the kit.
 
Last edited:
Last year, I bought the clutch rebuild kit from schnitz. I was quoted a price of $225 for the entire job including the kit. I shipped them my GS1000 clutch hub and they had Falicon do the job which included balancing the clutch hub. When the job was done Schnitz bumped the price to $299 and said Oh, so sorry we made a mistake on our quote :mad:. Dave Schnitz did not even reply to my e-mail, nice . . . get in writing.

I agree with everyone and the attached article you can have any proficient machinist perform the job. Falicon did an excellent job and since they are so familiar with process I would suggest using them.
 
Thanks as always for the help.

Probably not, those springs have been in there a long time whether it has been used or not.

So would it make sense to get a new OEM clutch basket from Suzuki? With the AMA discount from Bikebandit, you can get a new basket for about $225 while the rebuild would be about $300. What other hard parts other than the clutch fibers and steels might need replacing or inspection while the clutch is apart?

Are you sure your hub nut isn't loose? It could just be that.

Good idea, will check that when disassembling.
 
Thanks as always for the help.



So would it make sense to get a new OEM clutch basket from Suzuki? With the AMA discount from Bikebandit, you can get a new basket for about $225 while the rebuild would be about $300. What other hard parts other than the clutch fibers and steels might need replacing or inspection while the clutch is apart?



Good idea, will check that when disassembling.


those numbers are over 500 bucks..(oem basket+HD rebuild)
i think(if there still available) you can get a billet basket for that kind of money...
also,
if your not in a hurry you can surf the net for a nice used HD 1000 basket or even a used billet basket.
its winter time...no rush;)
also...
call john pearson and ask him about pricing for new and if he has any used HD baskets,
alot of times driveline shops end up with the customers old helical parts and can be bought for a great price!!!
i sell used HD baskets for 200 and up depending on model of suzuki.
i have no used HD baskets at this moment.
937-839-9723 pearson racing
 
I think for the extra $75, its worth having those heavy duty springs, larger rivets, and the much thicker backing plate. Plus its welded, not riveted. Its real easy to do it yourself.
 
those numbers are over 500 bucks..(oem basket+HD rebuild)
i think(if there still available) you can get a billet basket for that kind of money...
also,
if your not in a hurry you can surf the net for a nice used HD 1000 basket or even a used billet basket.
its winter time...no rush;)
also...
call john pearson and ask him about pricing for new and if he has any used HD baskets,
alot of times driveline shops end up with the customers old helical parts and can be bought for a great price!!!
i sell used HD baskets for 200 and up depending on model of suzuki.
i have no used HD baskets at this moment.
937-839-9723 pearson racing

Thanks...sorry if that wasn't clear...either get a new OEM basket OR get the existing one rebuilt...but I wonder if the same rattling problem will just come back sometime down the line with an OEM unmodified basket.
 
Thanks...sorry if that wasn't clear...either get a new OEM basket OR get the existing one rebuilt...but I wonder if the same rattling problem will just come back sometime down the line with an OEM unmodified basket.

The torision springs on the new OEM basket will sack out over time and you will have the same rattling problems so many GS1000 owners share. The H/D welded clutch hub will eliminate that problem permanently because the springs are stouter.
 
clutch baskets are like press pin crankshafts...
you dont have any idea if your basket is rebuildable until its disasembled.
alot of baskets that ive rebuilt have had cracked webbing(spring area) in the gear itself that you cant see until its been takin apart..
if thats the case..you have to buy another stock basket and start the process over again.
the side loads of the helical gear on a stock basket is evil.
be aware.
 
I don't think you need a billet.

Agreed, I think the billet is essentially for racing.

But, I'd check on the OEM, because I think it got upgraded along the way

And the hub nut is prone to coming loose as Bruce says
 
And the hub nut is prone to coming loose as Bruce says

I just finished working on a 78 1000 for a customer. He had a terrible rattle at idle. I pulled the clutch cover, tightened the nut (which was WAY loose), and she now runs nice and quiet. I don't think with the miles that are on your bike that the springs are shot. But considering the way you will be using that bike on the track, I would at least go with some heavy duty springs on your pressure plate.
 
it is easy to do . cleaning solvent, vise, grinder, welder, balance not really necessary. 200 bucks is a great pay day for what is involved.
 
I knew a guy who chased an engine wobble and it turned out to be an off balanced clutch hub.
It can happen.
I took his advice and had mine balanced just in case.
 
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