If they are still round in cross section, still soft and pliable, and still sitting well above the level of the surface they obviousy aren't the originals. I'd use them again.
-
Required reading for all forum users!!!
Welcome!
Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.A note to new registrants...
All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.A Special Note about Email accounts!
DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.A note to old forum members...
I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.
Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...
-
Returning Visitors
If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.
If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.
If they are still round in cross section, still soft and pliable, and still sitting well above the level of the surface they obviousy aren't the originals. I'd use them again.
Cheap enough from Robert to assure they seal. After all the work it would suck to tear it down JUST because they COULD have easily been replaced already.
takes maybe 3 days for them to get to me from Robert here in Oklahoma..in fact I posted a question in the carb section because this reminded me that I will need some for my little rehab project.
R
RobertGS
Guest
I put in the order for the new intake boot o-rings about 3 days ago. Mr. Barr sent me a note saying they were on the way.
I work pretty slow so I think they'll be here by the time I'm ready. Plus I need to finish dealing with the valve clearances and working on the tank (see "gas tank question" thread in the fuel section. Didn't want to cram too many things in this thread).
So I don't think those rings'll slow me down any.
I work pretty slow so I think they'll be here by the time I'm ready. Plus I need to finish dealing with the valve clearances and working on the tank (see "gas tank question" thread in the fuel section. Didn't want to cram too many things in this thread).
So I don't think those rings'll slow me down any.
R
RobertGS
Guest
Did an inventory of the 8 shims using the zip tie method. It seemed pretty straightforward. Hardest part learning to properly use the micrometer for the shims that had the size worn off. I'm going to put in my order for shims tomorrow and will be getting more rather than fewer.... especially for the thinner ones. Will install and retest and hopefully sort that out. Mr Barr's spreadsheet is pretty useful.
Point gaps adjusted.
Timing set. I don't know what's normal, but those plates needed to move a lot! The 1-4 especially almost the full range to get it set.
How big an impact would that have?
Carbs in a bath
Slowly but surely.
Point gaps adjusted.
Timing set. I don't know what's normal, but those plates needed to move a lot! The 1-4 especially almost the full range to get it set.
How big an impact would that have?
Carbs in a bath
Slowly but surely.
Last edited:
Should check them all if the writing is visible or not. They do wear and i have had many that were thinner that what was marked.
What he said, also some of them are different thicknesses at different places. I try not to use them.
R
RobertGS
Guest
Thanks Chuck,
I did that, more to double check weather I was using the micrometer correctly than to see if they were wearing. They all seemed close to what was stamped.
EDIT.... so I'm hearing you say not to reuse? Or to check each all over thoroughly? I found there was some variability with the micrometer...seemed to be sensitive to how firmly you clamped it. The shims aren't THAT expensive, so I'm open to what folks recommend.
I did that, more to double check weather I was using the micrometer correctly than to see if they were wearing. They all seemed close to what was stamped.
EDIT.... so I'm hearing you say not to reuse? Or to check each all over thoroughly? I found there was some variability with the micrometer...seemed to be sensitive to how firmly you clamped it. The shims aren't THAT expensive, so I'm open to what folks recommend.
Last edited:
Get some nice digital calipers that read MM and Inches. Well worth the cost.
R
RobertGS
Guest
Yah, I already have that on my list of toys to look for soon. May return this one while I'm at it.
20 to 25 bucks at Harbor Freight. Pittsburgh brand. I have one and love it.
R
RobertGS
Guest
Tried buying them online today but I couldn't seem to do it from Canada. Any tips from Canucks on how to get Harbour Freight tools?.. or a good alternative digital calliper accurate to .01mm that I can get in Toronto?
Returned the crappy ones I got from Canadian Tire... There's a digital one there that I might be able to get on sale for $10 (they say regular $39) but not hopeful about the quality..
Returned the crappy ones I got from Canadian Tire... There's a digital one there that I might be able to get on sale for $10 (they say regular $39) but not hopeful about the quality..
Princess Auto is about the same quality store as Harbour Freight.
They have a couple options you could check out.
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/...h=+&_DARGS=/pal/include/header.jsp.searchForm
They have a couple options you could check out.
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/...h=+&_DARGS=/pal/include/header.jsp.searchForm
K
kimjay
Guest
The crappy tire ones that are on sale right now are actually quite good for the money.
F
Flyboy
Guest
Coming along nicely there, following with interest. :clap:
R
RobertGS
Guest
Sorry about the slow pace. I get windows of time to work on the bike and finally have some updates.
Carbs are now dipped, new o-rings and back together and bench synced. Will be picking up carb sync gauges soon.
Cleaned up the intake boots and have new o-rings. Waiting to sort out new fasteners for those.
I remember seeing various posts about installing these in the correct orientation and that they are marked left and right... I don't see any markings on these and they appear pretty similar... Do the boots for a 791000N have markings I"m not seeing?
Clutch is back together with plates and springs in spec, ridges filed and nut torqued properly
Thanks to tkent02 I have a new tach unit in hand to replace the one with busted tach needle.
Gas tank is next. I'll be scraping off epoxy covering a puncture and using flame to solder it with old lead solder (I know many opinions on this and this is what I'm going with). Then a por 15 kit to line it.
Just for fun here's my home-made aux gas tank. 14 bucks in fittings and the jb-weld and bottle I already had.
I wish I had more time to keep it going more quickly. Takes me a while... I must have pulled the choke plunger rod out 10 times before I had those lifters in right, and that's just one piece. Tried getting an old o-ring off a jet for 10 minutes before figuring out an easy way (pinch them on either side and slide a plastic pick in to get them off).
Carbs are now dipped, new o-rings and back together and bench synced. Will be picking up carb sync gauges soon.
Cleaned up the intake boots and have new o-rings. Waiting to sort out new fasteners for those.
I remember seeing various posts about installing these in the correct orientation and that they are marked left and right... I don't see any markings on these and they appear pretty similar... Do the boots for a 791000N have markings I"m not seeing?
Clutch is back together with plates and springs in spec, ridges filed and nut torqued properly
Thanks to tkent02 I have a new tach unit in hand to replace the one with busted tach needle.
Gas tank is next. I'll be scraping off epoxy covering a puncture and using flame to solder it with old lead solder (I know many opinions on this and this is what I'm going with). Then a por 15 kit to line it.
Just for fun here's my home-made aux gas tank. 14 bucks in fittings and the jb-weld and bottle I already had.
I wish I had more time to keep it going more quickly. Takes me a while... I must have pulled the choke plunger rod out 10 times before I had those lifters in right, and that's just one piece. Tried getting an old o-ring off a jet for 10 minutes before figuring out an easy way (pinch them on either side and slide a plastic pick in to get them off).
Last edited:
1000s use all the verynsame intake manifolds..put them on wherever you want to start. I usually do the center 2 first and work outward.
