Header Paint Choice?

[Guest]

In my ongoing cosmetic refurbishment of my 1100E I am up to the point of wanting to paint my header and tail pipe. It is a Kerker 4-1 canister system that was black from the factory and I want to make it black again. I will sandblast as prep but don't know what paint choice I should be looking at. I have seen more posts saying XYZ paint is no good than ones that recommend one as actually working well. So, do I use header paint, barbeque paint, Rustoleum stove paint or something else?


Thanks,
Mark

 

[niclpnut]

I used VHT flame proof heaDer paint.

I media blasted the header and mid pipe. Wiped it down with acetone and used the high temperature primer and sprayed it black. Don't really care for the result. Paint was really fragile and on installation, I got quite a few Knicks. I heat cycled it as per the directions, but still had some flaking. End result was not very appealing with a mat light black finish.

I'm going to get it done right and have it ceramic coated.

Nic

 

[Guest]

I used VHT flame proof heaDer paint.

I media blasted the header and mid pipe. Wiped it down with acetone and used the high temperature primer and sprayed it black. Don't really care for the result. Paint was really fragile and on installation, I got quite a few Knicks. I heat cycled it as per the directions, but still had some flaking. End result was not very appealing with a mat light black finish.

I'm going to get it done right and have it ceramic coated.

Nic

This is my problem, I see lots of complaints about various types/brands of paints but very few mentions of what does work well. FWIW, I just used VHT caliper and wheel paint on my 1100E wheels and I am unimpressed with its toughness. I think I will be staying away from all of the VHT products from now on.

Does anybody have a rattle can header paint they actually liked?


Mark

 

[Guest]

I used VHT flame proof heaDer paint.

I media blasted the header and mid pipe. Wiped it down with acetone and used the high temperature primer and sprayed it black. Don't really care for the result. Paint was really fragile and on installation, I got quite a few Knicks. I heat cycled it as per the directions, but still had some flaking. End result was not very appealing with a mat light black finish.



I'm going to get it done right and have it ceramic coated.

Nic

Same results with the VHT silver. Finish turned a light gray when it got hot.

 

[eddie21]

I have a Kerker 4 into 1 as well. I just scratch at the pipe with a wire brush, then liberally apply Tremclad High Heat Gloss Black. I use a light spray, but put on many coats. It is an annual chore for me, I don't put that many km's on the bike usually. If you were going to do high miles per year, I suspect you may have to paint it more than once per season.

 

[alke46]

What would be an average price for having them ceramic coated? Sounds like the best solution if the price isn't too big a hurdle.

 

[max parsons]

John Deere make an excellent heat proof paint.It's expensive to buy but that's probably because it works so well.I've never had a good result using VHT.

 

[GSCafe]

What would be an average price for having them ceramic coated? Sounds like the best solution if the price isn't too big a hurdle.

$250 fully sandblasted and coated my Kerker 4-1 in ceramic of my color choice. Beats all the paints I ever tried. An original Kerker pipe is sure worth keeping up.

 

[GS1150Pilot]

My Yoshimura will be going to Jet-Hot this fall. Well worth it.

 

[niclpnut]

Yeah, it's my Yosh too. I took the temporary cheap rout.

Been quoted right around 200 for prep and coating from a local company.

Nic

 

[londonboards]

I've had good results with VHT but only when you use a clear coat (satin or gloss) to finish it off. It's the clear coat that makes is durable.

Most paint jobs using any brand of paint fail because they are not prepared correctly in the first place. Surfaces need to be spotlessly clean and grease free. I always bake smaller items in the oven to get the oil out of the pores. then de-grease again then use a primer. That's after you have roughed up the surface with some form of blasting or grit to give the pain a key.

 

[Gorminrider]

This is my problem, I see lots of complaints about various types/brands of paints but very few mentions of what does work well. FWIW, I just used VHT caliper and wheel paint on my 1100E wheels and I am unimpressed with its toughness. I think I will be staying away from all of the VHT products from now on.

Does anybody have a rattle can header paint they actually liked?


Mark

"actually liked"? I "like" barbecue paint because it's ez and can go on with a brush. I "like" the more expensive vht because it looks blacker everywhere except close to the engine where it cooks to a lighter flat grey....or chips off
I accept the impossibility of me doing it once , properly and forever with a rattle can,in the back yard and don't mind patching it up in 6 months when it's an eyesore- at least the pipes are still good so I think I'm helping them live longer

but it sounds like you probably should do them right.

 

[nvr2old]

I used VHT on the Yosh pipe for my GS1000S with great results. No chipping, no fading, and after 5 years it still looks great. Not sure why so many have had problems with it.

 

[Guest]

"actually liked"? I "like" barbecue paint because it's ez and can go on with a brush. I "like" the more expensive vht because it looks blacker everywhere except close to the engine where it cooks to a lighter flat grey....or chips off

OK, instead 'liked', how about I ask if anybody has a paint that they were happy with? I don't expect ceramic coating type of results from rattle can paint, but it would be nice to know if there were some choices out there that offer a decent value and work as advertised.


Mark

 

[BurntKittyForge]

OK, instead 'liked', how about I ask if anybody has a paint that they were happy with? I don't expect ceramic coating type of results from rattle can paint, but it would be nice to know if there were some choices out there that offer a decent value and work as advertised.


Mark

I've been trying to avoid paint (other than clearcoat) on my current bike.
So I've been daydreaming some about gun metal finishes. Thinking there's a few that should be heat resistant enough even for headers.

-Actually there IS a "rattle-can"spray on Ceramic Coat EXAMPLE Hmmm...

-There's also "Parkerizing" which leaves sort of boring usually gray finish (like the old GI 1911's for ex.)
PRICEY EXAMPLE but it's whole gallon

-My latest favorite Black Oxide HERE at Caswell , That'd be a good source since they sell two part epoxy tank liner, etc. and HERE's a random jug + sizes.

I'll probably check out the black oxide in wikipedia later too. Seems like the process that's happening when I spray "rust restorer" on my truck underparts, this can was $5 something at harbor freight and weird spray stuff to use, I expected it to be black but it is or whatever color. Not for header but thinking of flash rusting the gas tank with muriatic acid (the works $!) then blackening it. Usually rust remover/paints that crystalizes contains phosphoric acid as active ingredient...Gun blueing is at sporting goods for $10 and always wanted a blued gas tank but I'm getting off-topic.
(Those are links I got in like two minutes BTW, just random and looked OK for examples...worth study IMO).

 

[GS1150Pilot]

Not sure how it holds up under prolonged high heat, though.

http://www.ridingvintage.com/2014/08/how-to-parkerize-motorcycle-parts.html

 

[Gorminrider]

OK, instead 'liked', how about I ask if anybody has a paint that they were happy with? I don't expect ceramic coating type of results from rattle can paint, but it would be nice to know if there were some choices out there that offer a decent value and work as advertised.


Mark

sorry, I don't mean to be "semantical"-actually, I think it's pretty good that it stays on at all and I'm "happy". GOOD results have to be in the prep as london-boards and others said...but putting stuff in my kitchen oven trying to follow the can's directions,precisely isn't going to happen. Mind you, the laser-temperature reader has helped me cook it on a quite a bit better.

 

[wymple]

To me the problem was always the heat cycling to get it cured. I don't do that. I rattle can it on, usually the VHT, and after it sets I take it out on the road for it's 1st heating. All highway, keep it moving, for 25-30 miles, and it cures very nicely with no blistering. Holds up pretty good.

 

[edgeofvamp]

GSCafe thats not a bad price for ceramic coating. I got quoted $500 for the custom exhaust that i designed for my bike when i get to that stage. Which will probably go up, since i am still in teardown stage. I just pulled my 1100 motor-nowhere near as hard as some videos on youtube made it seem. Granted i am going back to 4-2 pipes, i like the symmetry(besides the fact that i can run thinner sleeker pipes).

 

[Gorminrider]

The laser-temperature gun was an education...it gets beyond curing temperature at the engine really quick- a minute or so (less maybe!). Trying to do Curing Cycles on the bike can only be as in: "moving" the curing temperature along the pipe with many startups if it works at all ( it does seem to help though)......If I try to cure it on the road, it's always a smokin' fail at the first stop sign .