How to part the cylinder head from the cylinders - stuck gasket - 1980 gs550e

[ukjules]

And for others who didnt know how to do valve compressing - i didnt.
I got one offf ebay for ?20 ($12.80 for those acorss the pond)

A magnet on a rod was useful to collect the collets ..
simple enough and didnt need thre sledge.

thanks for info on valves !

 

[mikerophone]

Enjoying this thread - not to poke fun, but to learn from. We've nearly all been there, those last damned bolts will get you from time to time. Live and learn, have a nice cold one and laugh about it. Looks like you've nearly there now.

Love how you include the aforementioned trusty hammer in most of the shots! Also, if you get a photo bucket account and learn to post them, you can post higher rez pics, and more a time that people won't need to click on to see detail.

 

[ukjules]

Cheers for support guys. I will never sell my bike and it will go and soon.

Question:
Not since I was 19 have I put a block back onto pistons on the bike. That was with a GSX 250E and I
didnt use spring compressors. (didnt know they existed)

Do I need ring comprressors to do this ?
These are thre ones I was gonna get (56mm for my bike)
I want and now need to keep costs and time down !

 

[DimitriT]

I have done a few strip downs like this. My most memorable was when I reassembled everything and was standing there admiring my work when I noticed one of the alignment pins which line up the head to the cylinders sitting on my workbench.

 

[DimitriT]

Cheers for support guys. I will never sell my bike and it will go and soon.

Question:
Not since I was 19 have I put a block back onto pistons on the bike. That was with a GSX 250E and I
didnt use spring compressors. (didnt know they existed)

Do I need ring comprressors to do this ?
These are thre ones I was gonna get (56mm for my bike)
I want and now need to keep costs and time down !

At least on the 550 I do not use ring compressors. But a spare set of strong hands is useful. And patience.

The procedure is to put down the base gasket and o-rings. I use some black sealer on the base gasket around the
outer corner studs. This is where the oil flows up to the motor. I use just a light coating. Don't forget guide pins.

Then you bring the cylinders over and pass the chain up and secure with some wire to the frame.

You then raise the two middle pistons as high as they go. I stick a piece of wood under one of them to keep
them raise high.

You then lower the cylinders down and have your friend pinch the piston rings (which you have already clocked) so
they will slip into the cylinders.

Once the inner pistons are inserted you lower them a bit so you can raise the outer pistons. This is the hardest
part.

The outer pistons need to rise up a bit so you can line them up and pinch their rings. But be careful not to lower
the middle pistons too much or they will slip out.

Go slow at this point. Take breaks.

Have your friend pinch one of the outer pistons while you gently tap the block and it should go in. Repeat
for the other side.

If it doesn't go with gentle taps STOP. Something is wrong. Don't force it.

And use a torque wrench once you have the head on. Don't over-torque it as you will damage the gasket and it will leak.

 

[ukjules]

Great advice and many thanks.
I will try your method - and I will go slowly - and methodically something i do usually.

Tell me though do you think it would be easier with those ring compressors ? (if money was no object)
(Not that I am going to buy them this time) just be useful to know if I ever am rich and need to be slick.

 

[tkent02]

Tell me though do you think it would be easier with those ring compressors ? (if money was no object)

Not really, it's too easy to do it by hand. Just squeeze them and push them in. Easy stuff.

 

[mikerophone]

I've seen some guys use big hose clamps around a piece of split PVC pipe or even thin sheet metal. Curious what the consensus here is on this as well because I have an 850 that I'll be rebuilding at some point.

 

[DimitriT]

On the 550 which is tight for space, ring compressors will just get in the way.

 

[yank]

Cut strips of a Cool whip container or the like and painters tape has worked for me. As tkent said fingers work just fine.

 

[Grimly]

I've seen some guys use big hose clamps around a piece of split PVC pipe or even thin sheet metal. Curious what the consensus here is on this as well because I have an 850 that I'll be rebuilding at some point.

Used fingers and/or hose clamps with a sleeve from a bean can. If using a bean can, watch where the blood goes.

 

[ukjules]

Cheers for info guys much appreciated. As I am colating all the stuff and getting on top of this and mending now
rather than dismantling I will have time to test and report on these methods.
Screwfix do a pack of 10 hose clips 40mm - 80mm for ?9. (just for others info)

Question:
Thinking ahead - where can I get pistons and rings ? cheaply in the uk ?
I am thinking only if I have got a cylinder that has been rebored ! I have standard pistons in.
I am enquiring - but it might be oversize 0.5 or 1.0 ? (I think the pistons are coming with it so ill know anyway)
Just want to be ready for the worst case scenario, I am sure it has not been rebored.

 

[tkent02]

Used fingers and/or hose clamps with a sleeve from a bean can. If using a bean can, watch where the blood goes.

+1, I opened up my finger doing this on a VW engine years ago.

Very deep cut.

 

[ukjules]

Question: Is it possible to get the definitive guide to do the following?
(Remeber I am speeding on as I want my bike going by next weekend)

Clean Top of pistons:
I used a small rotary drill with a brass wire brush on it.
But before this could even get close to helping i had to use a small steel wire brush
to get the crud off. (ensuring no dust gets into casings)
Any other options - should do/ should not do to clean up the top of a piston ?

Removing final bits of gasket on crank case, head etc:
Only a few bits left but to do this I am back to the rotary tool with brass brush (cant damage the casing)
OR? is this wrong ?
I cant get into the finer places so I am going to have to use a blade......

 

[mikerophone]

Ahh the remaining gasket bits - I've heard people say theirs have been as hard as metal... I'd use a razor blade perpendicular to the surface very carefully, very slowly removing a tiny bit at a time but that's me. If you do, be very careful to not scratch the surface and I would shy away from using anything powered personally.

 

[ukjules]

Thanks I will try that.
I will however also try a dremel with a brass brush.

Brass brushes dont mark the harder aluminium ?
To test this theory i used it on my old knackered head.
I used a big drill with brass brush attachment. I went at it and it cleaned
all the gasket marks off, inside the piston chamber no probs and no marks !

be interested on your thoughts on that ?

I have perfected a way of stopping dust and dirt getting into the casing
using plastic bags etc.

 

[ukjules]

And one more question:


When i put the gaskets on - what do you think of this ?
- I am going to put a fine coating of blue hylomal on both sides of
the gaskets - base and head ?

Is that a good idea to be sure ?

 

[mikerophone]

I'll let someone more familiar with hylomal reply on that - I've only ever used Permatex Copper gasket spray, coating both sides evenly, nice thing is it seals any minor imperfections in the gaskets or mating surface and transfers heat well.

Since you've already tested and proven the dremel and brass wheel I think you're fine there. Nice thing about the dremel is the variable speed switch - I pictured you going at it with a big drill at full speed. The dremel allows you to get up close the the bolt shafts too. The plastic bag trick is good, I seal them up with blue painters tape too, and watch those oil shaft openings - crud can fall down in there.

 

[tkent02]

I'll let someone more familiar with hylomal reply on that - I've only ever used Permatex Copper gasket spray, coating both sides evenly, nice thing is it seals any minor imperfections in the gaskets or mating surface and transfers heat well.

The head gasket is designed to go on dry. Not sure how it will work with Hylomar on it.

The base gasket can go dry, or if you may have to open it up again at a later date, oil, anti-sieze, grease or something so it doesn't stick. If they had done this at the factory you wouldn't have to do any gasket scraping. I have used all three of these, as well as WD-40, they ll seem to work OK. Haven't opened one up decades later, but after a year or two they come right off. Especially good on something like a valve cover that comes off routinely, you can use the same gasket for quite few valve adjustments that way.

 

[ukjules]

Thanks for info.
Taken on board.

Madly in my test head I did go at it with a large
drill on max ! As was brass brush no issues !

So a nice intricate dremel will do the job safely.


Thanks