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It is stator time for my 850

  • Thread starter Thread starter TPL
  • Start date Start date
T

TPL

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Idle shows 13.5V at battery, but at 3500-4000 rpm getting a bit less than 13V, after a 20 mile ride yesterday I put the bike on trickle and it took quite a few hours for the batt to come back up. the battery is new and a good quality one. I'll go through the rest of the stator test on basscliffs site but I know what I'm looking at. I might as well replace the R/R while I'm at it, it is original to the bike as well. I found this stator on ebay (new) for $89 shipped, my question is has anyone used this companies stators?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Stat...orcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_1548wt_1167
 
He has a very good Ebay rating. IF your stator is bad it's worth a try. Consider getting one of the FET regulators
FH012
 
13.5V is pretty good at idle

it is quite possible you only have bad connections. Did you check the voltage drops in the (revised) stator pages AT 5K rpm
 
posplayr said:
it is quite possible you only have bad connections. Did you check the voltage drops in the (revised) stator pages AT 5K rpm
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll be sure to check. I didn't order anything yet, I am going to go through the full stator test tomorrow morning, maybe tonight if I get time. I'm just making plans as to where to order the goods should the parts be needed.
 
When my rr went bad on my bike i bought an electrosport rr. I installed it and it was charging at over 20volts. so after double checking everything and going through the stator papers it led me back to the rr. I tried to call the company just kept getting voicemail, no call backs. I e-mailed the company and no e-mails back. so pretty much a waste of 100$ I think i've heard some people here have good luck with electrosport but this was my experience with them.
 
pistolpete said:
When my rr went bad on my bike i bought an electrosport rr. I installed it and it was charging at over 20volts. so after double checking everything and going through the stator papers it led me back to the rr. I tried to call the company just kept getting voicemail, no call backs. I e-mailed the company and no e-mails back. so pretty much a waste of 100$ I think i've heard some people here have good luck with electrosport but this was my experience with them.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice, good to know.

I found this kit on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FH01...TOR-RECTIFIER-KIT-/270702705832#ht_542wt_1167
 
TPL said:
Thanks for the advice, good to know.

I found this kit on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FH01...TOR-RECTIFIER-KIT-/270702705832#ht_542wt_1167
Click to expand...
You really can't go wrong scooping a used Shindengen R/R off ebay- sadly ,member duaneage is retiring from selling these and they have proven very reliable. Used on lots of hondas, yamahas, kawasakis in early 80's and still very common today. I bought 3 last fall for average price $5 (plus shipping) and all seem fine- of course, the best test is in the bike, but members polled recently gave them thumbs up.

That ebay R/R is the newer series FH- , you should look for the previous series of Shindengen R/R's begining with SH-xxx-xx as stated, they have been common for thirty plus years, so they can be had much cheaper.
 
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Check wiring

Check wiring

I just went through this on my GS1100GK. I bought a new stator and the R/R was NOS Suzuki. It still only charged 13.5V at idle and that dropped off as the RPMs grew, which meant 15 minutes of riding and the battery was dead. In the end, it was the wires that plugged into the R/R. They looked fine at first glance, but they were intenally corroded/burnt and were probably arcing. I had to cut off the connector and put 5 individual female blade connectors onto the wires to the R/R - and it fixed the problem. Charging at 14V+ at idle and about 13.5V at 5000RPM. Look CLOSELY at the harness - you will probably see wiring that has corrosion at the connectors - thats where the voltage is being spent. Bend some wires, if they're stiff or rock-hard then they are toast.
 
Ok, so I did the full stator check as per the stator papers, I also decided to pull the stator to visually inspect it. The stator past the test and ohms readings came in .7-.9 ohm for all stator output wires, there also was infinity to ground for all three. But what I did find was green corrosion at the connectors between the stator and the R/R (see pictures). Unfortunately the stator cover gasket did not survive. I guess the only thing to do next is clean or perhaps replace all the connectors, get it back together and see.
 
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Picture of obvious severe green corrosion at one connector, and another burnt
 
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And blackish corrosion on the others...and a spot on the insulation of a connector that is gone altogether
 
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That was excactly what I did. I replaced all the bullet conectors with blade type and wired my stator directly to the rr and then wired the rr directly to the battey. charging system works beautifully now.
 
TitanNeil said:
I just went through this on my GS1100GK. I bought a new stator and the R/R was NOS Suzuki. It still only charged 13.5V at idle and that dropped off as the RPMs grew, which meant 15 minutes of riding and the battery was dead. In the end, it was the wires that plugged into the R/R. They looked fine at first glance, but they were intenally corroded/burnt and were probably arcing. I had to cut off the connector and put 5 individual female blade connectors onto the wires to the R/R - and it fixed the problem. Charging at 14V+ at idle and about 13.5V at 5000RPM. Look CLOSELY at the harness - you will probably see wiring that has corrosion at the connectors - thats where the voltage is being spent. Bend some wires, if they're stiff or rock-hard then they are toast.
Click to expand...

Yep, it looks like I have the same issue, I got to get a new cover gasket on order but tomorrow I'll seek out new connectors locally.
 
that stator is probably still functional but probably only has 1/3 of it's life left. If I had the cash I would go ahead and replace it and do the connections as you already i ndicated. retest to insure charging is functional.
 
posplayr said:
that stator is probably still functional but probably only has 1/3 of it's life left. If I had the cash I would go ahead and replace it and do the connections as you already i ndicated. retest to insure charging is functional.
Click to expand...

Yea, not a bad idea. I skimmed through your thread about this issue and think I may just solder and use heat shrink wrap in stead of connectors. ;) Thanks for all the work you put into the thread.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=152769
 
I have a fully functioning stator from my 700 if it works for your bike. If you need one let me know.
 
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