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new GS racer

  • Thread starter Thread starter patrino
  • Start date Start date
Love this one..

wheelie-1.jpg
 
Looks like the forks aren't first-gen GSX-R600 after all. I'll post some detailed photos soon, would appreciate an ID if anyone recognizes them.
 
GregT, I looked, yes the carbs are 29s.

Finally took the bike out for a spin around the block (hadn't started it yet), wow, it pulls like a freight train!

Looks like the forks are first-gen GSX-R750, with the anti-dive framas welded up.
 
Ordered some emulators and springs from RaceTech, hoping to put them in over the weekend. Started building a new seat last weekend.

My budget is what it is, and I'm longer on time than I am on $. To that end I just bought a set of old used cam sprockets, with the intent to degree the stock GS cams. I have a machinist friend who can slot the sprockets for me.

Is this a total waste of time? If not, does anyone know the "magic numbers" I'm looking for? Stock settings? Something else?

I've got the bits I need to do the work (degree wheel, dial indicator, piston stop, etc.), just curious if anyone has experience with this.

At this point buying a set of performance cams is not on the table.

Thanks, Patrick
 
IIRC, 104 intake/106 exhaust for torque

Some aftermarket cams will make in big difference
 
Slow and steady.

RaceTech parts should be here today, hope to put them in Friday.

Steering damper showed up today, still waiting on the fork bracket for it.

Next big chunk of work is to work on the front brakes. The previous owner fabricated hanger plates for the EX500 calipers. They're spaced left-right correctly, but sit too far off the disc - see photos. I'd guess surface-area-wise, less than 60% of the pads were actually contacting the rotors.

GS_brakes_1.jpg


GS_brakes_2.jpg


I either need to make some new hangers or fit new discs. Again, given that I'm longer on time than $ this winter, I'll probably just buy some new brake pads and get some new hangers. I bought some thin sheet aluminum to make prototypes (bolt centers, spacing, etc.), and will probably ask a local shop to fabricate the real deals. Taking a look at them, then can be brought much closer in to the fork tube, that's probably not a bad idea too, as far as stiffness in the system goes.

I also want to do away with the washer stackup on the RH side. I'm not sure if the front calipers need to be removed to take off the front wheel, but given that I've got a set of rains, and that I live in the Pacific Northwest, I don't want to deal with losing a washer if I have to swap them out. So I'll either have one-piece hangers made, or else get a piece of stock to replace the washers.
 
Yes, they can and should be tidied up, including using more of the pad...

The piece of thick sheet used as a spacer should be duplicated for the other side. If I have it right, when swapping wheels you'll only pull the calipers off the mounting plates, not remove the plates and spacers.

With calipers off the plates, there should be room to remove the wheel.

Just to point out differing rules, we'd be using opposed piston twin pots - Lockheed or Brembo - and we're not allowed floating discs unless they were OE fitment...Pic attatched, a bit butch, but very effective...
 
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Got a good chunk of work done tonight.

Removed the bodywork for paint, wrapper the headers, disassembled the forks, plus a bunch of misc stuff.

The bits from RaceTech showed up. Anyone run Gold Valves in their front end? There are a number of tuning variables in the damping: valve preload (seven settings), valve spring rate (two options), most importantly. As usual, I'd rather not reinvent the wheel, so if you have experience with them, please let me know.

Ordered some aluminum stock from McMaster-Carr yesterday, so should be able to resume work on the new brake hangers once the front end's back together.

jixxer_forks.jpg
 
patrino said:
The bits from RaceTech showed up. Anyone run Gold Valves in their front end? There are a number of tuning variables in the damping: valve preload (seven settings), valve spring rate (two options), most importantly. As usual, I'd rather not reinvent the wheel, so if you have experience with them, please let me know.
Click to expand...

Make sure you follow the instructions fully;)
In particular: make sure you drill the extra holes in the damping rods ABOVE the bottom out cones.
Also go with the recommended valve spring preload of 3 turns as a starting point.
I left mine at this level in the end;)
 
JohnKat, here's a photo, could you please help me understand what you mean by "above" the bottom out cones?

Also, anyone able to please confirm that I've got the aluminum part oriented correctly relative to the damper rod? My parts diagram all show this direction as correct, but looks like the previous owner installed one of them in the other direction. It's stuck in the slider now, and I'm having a tough time getting it out. I tried heat and penetrating oil. Fashioned a hook-like deal I'm going to try to yank it out, slide-hammer style (need to go to the hardware store tomorrow to get some additional bits.) Sheesh.

damper_rod.jpg
 
I forgot to take a picture but the extra holes have to drilled above the existing holes i.e. where the damper rod is larger in diameter.
It's explained in RaceTech's note at the beginning of the second page.
The orientation of the cone in the picture is correct.
 
ah, got it. So the "bottom-out cone" is the part of the damping rod that has been turned down to a smaller diameter?

Looks like at the end of the day I'll have:

1. two pairs of the OEM holes in the bottom-out cone, which I've enlarged to 8mm
2. one pair of holes in the larger-diameter part of the damping rod (I need to add these)

Sound right? I'll have the extra set of holes down in the bottom-out cone, but I don't think those will matter. I'm guessing a couple extra holes won't matter, since the Gold Valve will be what's responsible for compression damping, not the damping rod hole diameter.
 
patrino said:
ah, got it. So the "bottom-out cone" is the part of the damping rod that has been turned down to a smaller diameter?

Looks like at the end of the day I'll have:

1. two pairs of the OEM holes in the bottom-out cone, which I've enlarged to 8mm
2. one pair of holes in the larger-diameter part of the damping rod (I need to add these)

Sound right? I'll have the extra set of holes down in the bottom-out cone, but I don't think those will matter. I'm guessing a couple extra holes won't matter, since the Gold Valve will be what's responsible for compression damping, not the damping rod hole diameter.
Click to expand...
No the bottom out cone is the piece of aluminum that slides on the bottom of the damping rod.
It locks the hydraulics when the fork is fully compressed.
You should test the fork tube without the spring installed to make sure everything slides smoothly.
You are right the enlarged holes will not play a big role now that the extra holes have been drilled above.
The compression damping is now taken over by the Gold Valve.
As I mentionned earlier, start with the recommended spring preload first;)
 
Got everything back together last night, everything moves well.

Thanks for the assist!
 
Patrick

Dave W told me later that this is you

I can't believe you didn't mention this

Todd
 
What class do you plan on racing in with all the suspension mods? I was looking on ahrma for a qualifying class for my build and I wasn't sure anything qualified with all the suspension mods.
 
overboostin said:
What class do you plan on racing in with all the suspension mods? I was looking on ahrma for a qualifying class for my build and I wasn't sure anything qualified with all the suspension mods.
Click to expand...
Vintage Heavyweight superbike , it is in the hand book . Page's 49-51 . Has to run restricted though, meaning the 29mm carbs max . All suspension mods are acceptable. Looks like fun:D
 
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