Oil changes and winter storage

[Guest]

It's that time of the year again, the bike is about to go hibernation mode for about four to five months. While I change the engine oil before I store it away, it has been brought to my attention that it should also be changed in the spring before starting a new riding season. Curious how many of you follow this, as it got me thinking I may have been inflicting some damage on the engine. Cheers

 

[Guest]

I leave the old oil in and change in spring myself. I do try and ride every month, looks like you may not get that chance being your from Toronto

 

[Guest]

Fearing a bike might set a little too long I did Sta-Bil all of my running bikes today, just in case

 

[tkent02]

It's that time of the year again, the bike is about to go hibernation mode for about four to five months. While I change the engine oil before I store it away, it has been brought to my attention that it should also be changed in the spring before starting a new riding season. Curious how many of you follow this, as it got me thinking I may have been inflicting some damage on the engine. Cheers

That always seemed silly to me. New oil will perhaps gain a tiny bit of water over the winter from condensation if it's in a humid climate with large daily temperature changes, but that water will just boil off the first time the engine gets hot anyway. I think they are just trying to sell more oil.

 

[Guest]

makes no sense to me,
if you are going to change it in the spring again, just drain it in the fall and don't ad the new stuff until spring.
I don't change oil til I have time, halfway through winter.

 

[chuck hahn]

Change the oil in the spring. Putting Stabil in the tank WILL keep the fuel in the tank good but in reality doesnt do much for the carbs. Get a cat food can or tuna can and open the drains to drain all the bowls. let them rip till they stop and use a towel held against the drain screws to wick a little more out...wont be much but it will get a few drops more out of the bowls. Close the drains and in the spring it will start and drive like the day it was out away.

I have read far TOO TOO many threads saying I put gas stabilizer "X" or "X" in and still my carbs are gumped up...what gives!! Well, what gives is the bike wasnt put away properly. I took my Cooley out of storage after 15 1/2 months, put gas in and primed the carbs. Rode away with not so much as a pause in performance.

 

[Guest]

It did seem a bit excessive to me as well, thanks for chiming in guys.

 

[tkent02]

Change the oil in the spring. Putting Stabil in the tank WILL keep the fuel in the tank good but in reality doesnt do much for the carbs. Get a cat food can or tuna can and open the drains to drain all the bowls. let them rip till they stop and use a towel held against the drain screws to wick a little more out...wont be much but it will get a few drops more out of the bowls. Close the drains and in the spring it will start and drive like the day it was out away.

I have read far TOO TOO many threads saying I put gas stabilizer "X" or "X" in and still my carbs are gumped up...what gives!! Well, what gives is the bike wasnt put away properly. I took my Cooley out of storage after 15 1/2 months, put gas in and primed the carbs. Rode away with not so much as a pause in performance.

What Chuck said, Stabil or the like will keep fuel from going bad in the tank, but it won't prevent it evaporating from the carbs and leaving a residue behind. If you are not 100% certain your petcock leaks absolutely nothing disconnect the fuel line too. All the float bowl draining in the world won't help if a leaky petcock just fills it back up again as it slowly evaporates away.

 

[chuck hahn]

And what Tom said too.

 

[Guest]

Last few years I've actually used Seafoam as a fuel stabilizer, and with very good results. Adding one whole bottle to the full tank of gas, running the engine a bit so it gets in to carbs. Fires right up in the spring time, and the carbs seem fine.

 

[Sandy]

I always fill and stabil the tank and run the bike a bit to get it in the carbs. Sometimes I drain the carbs, sometimes I don't and never had a problem either way. As acids and other nasty crap can collect in the oil I change the oil in the fall but not again in the spring, don't see much sense in that. Batteries come into the house and go on a battery tender every once and awhile. I don't just leave them on the tender. Every few weeks I rotate the tender around the batteries, we're talking RV, lawn tractor, pickup truck and a couple of motorcycle batteries. The bikes, chain saws, lawnmower and other vehicles always start right up in the spring. Procedure for a bike is usually turn to prime and fill the carbs while installing the battery and start. If a bike didn't get ridden or summerized I'll drain the old gas into my work van and rewinterize as above. Been doing it for years and never had storage issues. Oh yeah, also make sure the bike is as clean as possible as dirt hiding out of site can attract moisture.

 

[tkent02]

Like I said, if your petcock is perfect that works fine. If it leaks even a little bit I hope you enjoy the time spent cleaning carburetors.

 

[Sandy]

Like I said, if your petcock is perfect that works fine. If it leaks even a little bit I hope you enjoy the time spent cleaning carburetors.

True enough and something to consider. Never had a problem yet with carbs stored dry or wet. Guess if the petcock was bad it could flood your crankcases too. Been doing it this way for 50 years, lucky I guess.

 

[Guest]

Cheers, thanks for suggestions!

 

[tkent02]

Must be lucky, or maybe you actually maintain the bike once in a while. I've bought dozens of used GSes which were dead from being stored wrong, with carburetors clogged to the point of not running at all being by far the most common problem.

 

[Sandy]

Must be lucky, or maybe you actually maintain the bike once in a while. I've bought dozens of used GSes which were dead from being stored wrong, with carburetors clogged to the point of not running at all being by far the most common problem.

That I do. And yes previous owner stuff can be a nightmare. The 750ES I got after sitting for 17 years with a dry tank and carbs was fine except the bottom of the tank fell out 10 minutes after I put fuel in it. Turns out the tank was like swiss cheese from rust caused from the condensation and the only thing allowing it to briefly hold gas was the paint. I got it home, gave a few things a quick check, stuck in a battery and gas and it fired right up. Pretty good for sitting for 17 years, good thing I had it outside. Pity too, because the original paint on the tank was perfect.

 

[DohcBikes]

Dozens? Lol.

 

[tkent02]

Restored three, four, maybe five GSes a year for decades. A few other bikes too, but mostly dead GSes. It's kind of a hobby.

 

[Wingsconsin]

Like I said, if your petcock is perfect that works fine. If it leaks even a little bit I hope you enjoy the time spent cleaning carburetors.

This is one of the things that caused me troubles this year
Put the bike away with Stabil in the tank - thought all was well.
In spring the bike would not run correctly... Found a leaky petcock and replaced it.
Then eventually had the carbs re-done by Steve - now it runs perfectly when dry (new coils, wires and plug caps going on in spring)
I believe the petcock was leaking 1 drop at a time all winter - and then it would sit in the carbs and evaporate and leave the residue behind.
While the jets weren't completely closed off - they were gunked up and the bike did not run well.

Lesson learned - this weekend -
Carbs drained !
Fuel line OFF the tank!
Oil Changed!
Battery out and in basement on tender!
Fuel Tank stored FULL with stabilized gas!

 

[limeex2]

I always fill and stabil the tank and run the bike a bit to get it in the carbs. Sometimes I drain the carbs, sometimes I don't and never had a problem either way. As acids and other nasty crap can collect in the oil I change the oil in the fall but not again in the spring, don't see much sense in that. Batteries come into the house and go on a battery tender every once and awhile. I don't just leave them on the tender. Every few weeks I rotate the tender around the batteries, we're talking RV, lawn tractor, pickup truck and a couple of motorcycle batteries. The bikes, chain saws, lawnmower and other vehicles always start right up in the spring. Procedure for a bike is usually turn to prime and fill the carbs while installing the battery and start. If a bike didn't get ridden or summerized I'll drain the old gas into my work van and rewinterize as above. Been doing it for years and never had storage issues. Oh yeah, also make sure the bike is as clean as possible as dirt hiding out of site can attract moisture.

Correct! Change oil in the fall. Oil suspends contaminates and when left over winter this will settle into lower areas. On my last ride, I'll put stabilizer in before I go out,top off tank with non-oxy fuel, and enjoy my ride on my favorite roads. When I get home, put it on the center stand,drain the float bowls, change the oil, cover it up and go into mourning until spring. I rotate my battery tender between all bikes, changing its location every Sunday night. I know its anal but in the spring with our cold climates, keep that garage door closed. The warm spring weather will make your cold bikes sweat. That is where a lot of moisture comes from.