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Oil changes and winter storage

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
Wingsconsin said:
This is one of the things that caused me troubles this year
Put the bike away with Stabil in the tank - thought all was well.
In spring the bike would not run correctly... Found a leaky petcock and replaced it.
Then eventually had the carbs re-done by Steve - now it runs perfectly when dry (new coils, wires and plug caps going on in spring)
I believe the petcock was leaking 1 drop at a time all winter - and then it would sit in the carbs and evaporate and leave the residue behind.
While the jets weren't completely closed off - they were gunked up and the bike did not run well.

Lesson learned - this weekend -
Carbs drained !
Fuel line OFF the tank!
Oil Changed!
Battery out and in basement on tender!
Fuel Tank stored FULL with stabilized gas!
Click to expand...
The bike(s) I ride all winter I don't drain the bowls, the ones I don't I drain the bowls and leave the drain screws off. Not a bad idea to just take the tank off and set it aside.

Batteries inside but I don't tender them continuous
 
I store the tank FULL to prevent rust from forming inside the metal tank -
In spring I will pour the OLD Stabilized fuel into the car (fuel injected and diluted with another 13+ gallons of fuel) -
And get a fresh tank of new gas to start the year ;)
That's my plan for the GS850GL

For the Goldwing --
Plastic fuel tank - stabilized fuel at whatever level it is at when I put it away (usually 3/4 +)
Plug in battery tender - throw cover over.
I already washed and waxed it -
Gotta change the oil this weekend -.
All the liquids were done in the past year (anti-freeze in radiator)
In Spring - turn key and start it . (Gotta love modern technology)

Another 2 days of good weather - then snow coming for the weekend possibly here in Wisconsin :(


 
i agree with storing FULL, then draining the old gas and replacing with fresh in the spring. I haven't had good luck with "stabilized" gas. But many have.
 
Last few rides I run with the marine Stabil (blue) to work it into carbs. Run tank down to 1/4 full ,disconnect petcock line in case it fails. Over 5 months, the gas won't completely evaporate unless bike is stored in sun. In spring, add fresh fuel and off you go.
 
Keep it full, start it and let it warm up every couple weeks. give it a rap or 2 on the throttle intermittently after warm to get the oil pressure up. Run it 5-10 minutes and shut it down.

Done.
 
Wingsconsin said:
I store the tank FULL to prevent rust from forming inside the metal tank -
In spring I will pour the OLD Stabilized fuel into the car (fuel injected and diluted with another 13+ gallons of fuel) -
And get a fresh tank of new gas to start the year ;)
That's my plan for the GS850GL

For the Goldwing --
Plastic fuel tank - stabilized fuel at whatever level it is at when I put it away (usually 3/4 +)
Plug in battery tender - throw cover over.
I already washed and waxed it -
Gotta change the oil this weekend -.
All the liquids were done in the past year (anti-freeze in radiator)
In Spring - turn key and start it . (Gotta love modern technology)

Another 2 days of good weather - then snow coming for the weekend possibly here in Wisconsin :(


Click to expand...
Our fall up here has been unbelievable this year! Still riding and may be able to ride to Thanksgiving dinner.
 
Starting for a few minutes every week or so doesnt allow the engine to come to full temp and evaporate any crankcase condensation. Short starts and stops....especially in cold weather with decent humidity will only add to crankcase condensation. But to each their own i guess Take all of 10 minutes and drain the bowls and dont be so darned lazy about it.
 
Nebraska..leaving the drain plugs out also invites bugs to get in and build nests in there. If they are drained down and left a little loose is ok though. But generally any tiny residual will evap out the vents. Long as the jets and choke pickup tubes are subjected to gas that can coagulate and varnish it all up you should be good to go.
 
Also from Nebraska. Sorry but there's a lot of people out there that don't ride their bikes long enough ever. Not a bit worried about crankcase condensation on a bike that runs 5-10 minutes every couple weeks. If you are worried about that then you are a very paranoid person. My current GS sat with the same oil in it for 8 years and the cranckase and everything inside looks new.
 
Not paranoid at all..Its just fact that getting it 'warm" only invites condensation build up. And besides taking 10 minutes to follow the service manuals procedures takes any and all variables out of the equation.
 
But it doesn't keep the bike ready to ride at any moment. We have some harsh winters, yet I will always find at least a few days each month that are good enough to ride. Might go insane if i didn't
 
When I took the Cooley out of storage in September..after 15 1/2 months...it took the time to dump in a gallon of gas, turn the petcock to PRIme, and hit the button. So you cant be serious "with a 'at a moments notice" plea. It takes you just as long to put your winter gear on as it does to take a bike out of storage. And it may even take you longer to suit up than it does to dump in some gas and fire it up.
 
Yes, ready to ride means hop on and ride, not drive to a gas station to get fuel and bring it back.
 
Like i said earlier to each their own. I work on bikes all winter and theres always fresh gas in a can in the shop. Spin it any way you wish but i go by the service manuals procedures and they restart everytime without any issues. I dont need to dump in Seafoam or other snake oils and run a tank full of gas through the carbs to "freshen" them and get response and performance back up to par.

But if thats someone idea of doing it right then thats why Robert Barr sells a schits load of oring kits each year. Bet his sales peak quickly with the winter thaws too.
 
DohcBikes said:
Also from Nebraska. Sorry but there's a lot of people out there that don't ride their bikes long enough ever. Not a bit worried about crankcase condensation on a bike that runs 5-10 minutes every couple weeks. If you are worried about that then you are a very paranoid person. My current GS sat with the same oil in it for 8 years and the cranckase and everything inside looks new.
Click to expand...

So you still have a cycle shop DOHC?
 
chuck hahn said:
Nebraska..leaving the drain plugs out also invites bugs to get in and build nests in there. If they are drained down and left a little loose is ok though. But generally any tiny residual will evap out the vents. Long as the jets and choke pickup tubes are subjected to gas that can coagulate and varnish it all up you should be good to go.
Click to expand...

Hey Chuck, yeah never figured anything would crawl back up there in the cold weather, most the bugs are dead by then. Probably just as easy to leave them loose so you don't misplace them.
 
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