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Painted Carbs

  • Thread starter Thread starter jwhelan65
  • Start date Start date
Dude, they almost belong in a museum! Is the S100 for metal (aluminum) tops too? Also, is S100 the manufacture, or model of paint. Thanks!
 
Is the S100 a real paint? I was reading about it (googled it), it doesn't say it is a paint. Is that what is creating the textured look? Sorry for all the questions. I don't want to jack mine up when I do them. Thanks!

Reno Bruce, did you use a primer/sealer for the caliper paint? thanks!
 
oshanac said:
Dude, they almost belong in a museum! Is the S100 for metal (aluminum) tops too? Also, is S100 the manufacture, or model of paint. Thanks!
Click to expand...

oshanac said:
Is the S100 a real paint? I was reading about it (googled it), it doesn't say it is a paint. Is that what is creating the textured look? Sorry for all the questions. I don't want to jack mine up when I do them. Thanks!

Reno Bruce, did you use a primer/sealer for the caliper paint? thanks!
Click to expand...

S100 isn't paint. It's kind of like Armor-all, but much better. It's made to be used on black engines to bring back the faded parts, but it works great on anything black...engines, plastic, seats, sidewalls, etc. Great stuff. His carb tops are plastic and already textured. I just made them look new.
 
For you guys wanting the textured look, you can buy wrinkle paint at most any auto parts store, it comes in black, red, and green. Hit it with a coat, let it air dry for 15 minutes or so, then another coat and stick them in the oven for a bit. For aluminum, use an etching primer first.
 
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Here's what I'm working on now. My set of VM33 smoothbores for my Beast project. Gloss black with polished tops and bowls.

100_6340.jpg
 
Thanks Gib. Is the etching primer the same a "regular" primer? Is it specific to Aluminum?

Renobruce-is that latest pic still rattlecan? If so, I think you were born a painter!
 
etching primer is not the same as regular primer.. Etching primer will as the name implies...etch into metal...any metal. Regular primer is really more of a sealer and high build primer is kinda like a filler. Thats the quick and easy of it.
 
Bruce I have a set of 34's Id be interested in having you do for my 1100ES resto...If you're interested what would you normally charge. These are currently UNpainted, so they wouldnt need stripped, just cleaned up and shot and baked. Doing them all black, as per stock for this particular bike...
 
TheCafeKid said:
Bruce I have a set of 34's Id be interested in having you do for my 1100ES resto...If you're interested what would you normally charge. These are currently UNpainted, so they wouldnt need stripped, just cleaned up and shot and baked. Doing them all black, as per stock for this particular bike...
Click to expand...

PM sent. :)
 
WOW-again sick work Renobruce! I heard somewhere here-you should/cal boil your crabs after beadblasting /cleaning them. You can find alot of hidden oil that wil raise to the top? Is that a good idea? Sounds good to me. Will it hurt disassembled carbs in any way?
 
oshanac said:
WOW-again sick work Renobruce! I heard somewhere here-you should/cal boil your crabs after beadblasting /cleaning them. You can find alot of hidden oil that Will raise to the top? Is that a good idea? Sounds good to me. Will it hurt disassembled carbs in any way?
Click to expand...

If you are going to paint them, I highly recommend it. LOTS of oil left in the water. It won't hurt anything. Lots of people who can't get the good carb dip stuff use boiling water and lemon juice.
 
How do you remove the clean carb from the pot (since there will be an oil slick on top of the water)? do you just fill the pot with more water, causeing the slick to "run off" too? Thanks!
 
oshanac said:
How do you remove the clean carb from the pot (since there will be an oil slick on top of the water)? do you just fill the pot with more water, causeing the slick to "run off" too? Thanks!
Click to expand...

I keep the carb submerged with a wooden spoon (my wife loves me) and simply pour the water out.
 
Great work, Bruce! I suspect your PM inbox should be at capacity by now.:)
Would it be possible to post a ballpark price for the services (paint/polish or rebuilding etc) ......a rudimentary price list, as it were? I understand that final prices will depend on the variables involved, but just a rough idea would be nice to work with, if possible.... might save you some time/effort answering FAQ, too! ;)

Tony.
 
Mysuzyq said:
Great work, Bruce! I suspect your PM inbox should be at capacity by now.:)
Would it be possible to post a ballpark price for the services (paint/polish or rebuilding etc) ......a rudimentary price list, as it were? I understand that final prices will depend on the variables involved, but just a rough idea would be nice to work with, if possible.... might save you some time/effort answering FAQ, too! ;)

Tony.
Click to expand...

In a nutshell, I charge 200.00 labor to do a set. The add-ons would be paint, any parts (orings, bowl gaskets, new allen head bolts, etc.), and return shipping. If the carbs need dipping, that's an extra 25.00. This is to paint the bodies and paint or polish the tops/bowls. 20.00 extra to polish bowls from VM29's and VM33's (they are a biatch).

So roughly between 190.00 and 340.00 depending on what is needed.

Thanks for all the interest. I appreciate the side work. :) If my PM box is full, you can email me....it's in the contact section.
 
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