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Question For Nessism

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jakob
  • Start date Start date
I hope Ed isn't hurt by this thread. He is always on here willing to share his knowledge.

Even though he is a NUT JOB :p
 
Steve is that Kaleco thing for real !?!?!?! Now I've seen everything !!!!!!
Ha Ha Ha Ha !!!!!
 
I am a technician for mitsubishi. And know for a fact muffler bearings do exist. The 3000gt vr4 has an active exhaust that shuts a valve in one of the tailpipes to change the tone of the exhaust. That valve rides in the famous muffler bearing.
 
I feel absolutely sure that the petcocks on the needle float valve thingies are farked up. No other explanation is possible. Good luck.
S.
 
Man, you guys crack me up. Apparently NONE of you know what you are talking about...

Anyone who knows ANYTHING about these old Suzukis would know that what he is describing are CLASSIC symptoms of the failure of the orange business that dangles in front of the gosh dang business! Clearly you can see its not the springhickey in front of the dofladgie thats causing the problem. If he doesnt do something about the whatsit that spins over the flange on the little shiney post in FRONT of the orange business, its simply a matter of time before the thingamabob takes a dump on him for good...


:D
 
You obviously forgot to check the turn signal fluid and rotate the spark plugs. If that doesn't do it add more miles into the speedometer. It is only supposed to hold 85 but you can squeeze 90 in if you try,
 
asetech said:
I am a technician for mitsubishi. And know for a fact muffler bearings do exist. The 3000gt vr4 has an active exhaust that shuts a valve in one of the tailpipes to change the tone of the exhaust. That valve rides in the famous muffler bearing.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the buzz kill asatech, what's next ? Is there a proctologist in the forum that's going to tell me that pigs CAN fly out of my butt ?!?!? Just kidding asetech thanks for the info I just learned something new today.
 
I heard it can be fixed with some fallopian tubing with some relative bearing grease smeared on it. Sometimes you will also need a bucket of steam, at least a 2 gallon bucket. If that don't work sell it as a real easy fixer upper. :-\\\
 
scrapper said:
I heard it can be fixed with some fallopian tubing with some relative bearing grease smeared on it. Sometimes you will also need a bucket of steam, at least a 2 gallon bucket. If that don't work sell it as a real easy fixer upper. :-\\\
Click to expand...

The rumour regarding fallopian tubing grease mixed with relative bearing grease, "smeared on it" is an internet scam. This area is delicate and requires real knowlege and experience. Noone who has not attained their PhD in lubrication and friction analysis should open this canoworms.
However, as an individual who looks good in coveralls, and who furthermore has several hours of experience, I can unequivocally state that one will need at least a five gallon narrow guage bucket, It will need to be stainless steel, polished, and preferrably painted, by renobruce. The bucket should not be dipped in, splashed with, injected with or certainly not tested on, with any caustic soda.
However, in a pinch, use any old paint to make your carbs not cleaner or your elecktrickery not sparkier.
RE: the steam. It ain't the heat, it's the lube that contributes most to an enjoyable interaction re the piston and the cylinder.
Any mechanic who doesn't understand this....
Good luck.
S.
 
Jakob said:
I am having a problem with my bike (does it matter what year and model it is?) and thought maybe you could help.

I put fuel in my tank last week and have ridden it about 150 miles. Out of the blue it stopped running on me :confused: I pulled over and checked the tire pressure by kicking both of them and they both seemed fine. I also checked my chain and it was still there. Are all chains made of metal or is mine a one-of-a-kind?

While checking important things like these I found a lever below the gas tank that has 3 markings on it. One of these markings is 'RES'. When I thought about it I figured that this is where you put the lever to make it RESistant to dying. I moved the lever to RES and it started again. I was right!!! I rode it some more and it died AGAIN and will not restart regardless of where I move the lever.

Does this mean I need a new seat? Any help would be appreciated.

~~>Jakob

P.S. I tried the SEARCH function and typed in "Bike no run" and got too many results to read so I figured I would ask someone :p
Click to expand...

Well first of all dont ever kick the tires again!!! that was your first mistake thos things can blow and any minute!!! so be careful.

Dude I think your chain is one of a kind I have a nylon chain they hold up really good under high heat you can put the stuff under fire and nothing happens:eek:!!

I wouldnt worry about the model from what you are discribing to us it is this bike? the second one down? http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.motorbike-search-engine.co.uk/classic_bikes/triumph_500_nt.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.motorbike-search-engine.co.uk/classic_bikes/triumph-classic-motorcycles.php&usg=__eTjLyZBK04VyGp4KKzbVNRN-gKA=&h=300&w=400&sz=35&hl=en&start=15&tbnid=kTukSKdZbFj_cM:&tbnh=93&tbnw=124&prev=/images%3Fq%3Drare%2Bmotorcycles%26gbv%3D2%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26sa%3DG

I would be proud of my self ofr figuring out that the RES stands for RESistant good job bro you da bomb man.

well I hope I helped?
Jake your man.
 
Thanks for everyone's help so far. I've tried everything that's been suggested and nothing has worked :mad:

Here's what else I have given thought to:

1. Is the air in my forks imported? If it is should I be running synthetic air?
2. Is anybody familiar with "F" air? When I checked my tires again (not kicking this time, thanks nisom512!) my gauge said "F" air... I know what "Good" and "Poor" mean but mine is right in the middle of those on the gauge.
3. Does anyone know the proper torque for spokes on a mag wheel?
4. If my bike is in Australia would I have to turn the bolts counter-clockwise to tighten them due to the Coriolis Effect?
5. Will I catch Swine Flu from waving at a Harley rider?

Here's some other things I have tried but have failed to make it work:

1. I Armor-All'd my seat and tires.
2. I swapped my mirrors so I can see my cool new helmet better.
3. I searched the internet for other suggestions but wound up looking at porn. Again.
4. I opened my helmet lock to cut down on the drag coefficient.
5. I ate a PB & J sandwich.

Any other things I'm missing?

~~>Jakob
 
Try draining the oil from the engine. I bet it has built up over time.
 
Jakob said:
4. If my bike is in Australia would I have to turn the bolts counter-clockwise to tighten them due to the Coriolis Effect?
Click to expand...
No, they still tighten the same way but we don't use torque wrenches down here. You just tighten the bolt until it snaps and then back it off half a turn.

Jakob said:
5. Will I catch Swine Flu from waving at a Harley rider?
Click to expand...

Maybe, those hogs can be dangerous.
 
Zooks said:
No, they still tighten the same way but we don't use torque wrenches down here. You just tighten the bolt until it snaps and then back it off half a turn.



Maybe, those hogs can be dangerous.
Click to expand...

You bloody Aussies are always laying claim to Kiwi innovation :mad:
 
Of course, it could the the ThingaMajiggy that attaches upside up, downside sideways with two wrong headed right handed 15 mm 1/4-20 screwy nuts to the Thingamabob that fell off of the Pet cock when it fell out of the sideways flame thrower attached for the latest bobber mod...........:D:D
 
Zaphod Breeblebrox told me in a PM from Regulus that Iwas wrong, it's the Bob A MA thingy (must have correct capitalizations too) attached to the synthetic chain immerssed in fallopian tube organic grease causing the problems and has to be fixed right away two yesterdays ago before it reaches CRITICAL MASS a week from last Sunday!!!!!!!!
 
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