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Quick clutch springs question

  • Thread starter Thread starter ptexotik
  • Start date Start date
Nessism said:
That clutch basket looks pretty chewed up. I think (might be wrong) in 1983 Suzuki went to an extra plate type clutch kit for the 1100 which is just as bad as the Barnett version when it comes to chewing up the basket. At any rate, you might want to sand out and really bad ridges, or look for a better basket, and make sure you have a good set of fibers, not the extra plate variety.
Click to expand...

Thanx, I'll count them today when I get over to storage.
 
Id you do have a stock 83 clutch pack it will have ten fibers and ten steels.
These tore up the outer and inner hub so Suzuki went back to the nine and nine on the 1150.
If you do have the ten fibers I'd get the none FBG fibers and lose one steel. You can file out those deep cuts in the hubs.
I've had hubs that were so bad the clutch would not release properly and cause slippage.
 
Ok, filed away all the nastiness in the clutch basket and it's looking all purdy. I'll need new fibres in the future.
1) the plate teeth have a flat edge one side & a slightly rounded edge the other side. Does it matter which way they are orientated when re-inserting?
2) similar question for the fibres ... their 'tabs' are folded on themselves ...Does it matter which way they are orientated when re-inserting?
3) the inside hub has circular 'play' with respect to the outer basket of approx 2 inches back & forth. Is that ok or a bad sign?

THANK YOU


chef1366 said:
Id you do have a stock 83 clutch pack it will have ten fibers and ten steels.
These tore up the outer and inner hub so Suzuki went back to the nine and nine on the 1150.
If you do have the ten fibers I'd get the none FBG fibers and lose one steel. You can file out those deep cuts in the hubs.
I've had hubs that were so bad the clutch would not release properly and cause slippage.
Click to expand...
 
ptexotik said:
Ok, filed away all the nastiness in the clutch basket and it's looking all purdy. I'll need new fibres in the future.
1) the plate teeth have a flat edge one side & a slightly rounded edge the other side. Does it matter which way they are orientated when re-inserting?
2) similar question for the fibres ... their 'tabs' are folded on themselves ...Does it matter which way they are orientated when re-inserting?
THANK YOU
Click to expand...

The rounded edges should face inwards, the sharp edges to the outside. I did not take note during dis-assembly of the pack for the first time, but according to Sharpy, this is the way they are oriented from the factory. By leaning the bike over on the side stand, one can replace plates without draining all the oil...have a drain pan under the bike, to catch the small amount that will be lost though (a little more than a cupful).

It is possible to have drive plates (fibres) within specified thickness, and still experience slip, if they have been impregnated with additives from using oil unsuitable for a wet clutch at any point during the bike's life, BTW. If you still have slip after putting it all back together, new plates may be the way to go.
 
You mean AFTER replacing fibres and still slippage ... then replace plates?
DO you know anything about the 'play' of inner hub I described too?
Thanx

Mysuzyq said:
The rounded edges should face inwards, the sharp edges to the outside. I did not take note during dis-assembly of the pack for the first time, but according to Sharpy, this is the way they are oriented from the factory. By leaning the bike over on the side stand, one can replace plates without draining all the oil...have a drain pan under the bike, to catch the small amount that will be lost though (a little more than a cupful).

It is possible to have drive plates (fibres) within specified thickness, and still experience slip, if they have been impregnated with additives from using oil unsuitable for a wet clutch at any point during the bike's life, BTW. If you still have slip after putting it all back together, new plates may be the way to go.
Click to expand...
 
ptexotik said:
You mean AFTER replacing fibres and still slippage ... then replace plates?
DO you know anything about the 'play' of inner hub I described too?
Thanx
Click to expand...
The fibers do "float" in oil so there is some play.
If you use those fibers you will tear up the hub again. I'd order some new ones and just use those until they arrive.
 
chef1366 said:
The fibers do "float" in oil so there is some play.
If you use those fibers you will tear up the hub again. I'd order some new ones and just use those until they arrive.
Click to expand...

ok thanx ... but is this play is normal?? ...
3) the inside hub has circular 'play' with respect to the outer basket of approx 2 inches back & forth. Is that ok or a bad sign?

THANK YOU
 
chef1366 said:
The fibers do "float" in oil so there is some play.
If you use those fibers you will tear up the hub again. I'd order some new ones and just use those until they arrive.
Click to expand...

OK FBG it is!!
thanx
 
Last edited:
ptexotik said:
You mean AFTER replacing fibres and still slippage ... then replace plates?
DO you know anything about the 'play' of inner hub I described too?
Thanx
Click to expand...

Yes, hopefully your new springs & scuffing the steels will yield good results, but if not, you will likely be in the market for new plates. I don't know the limits of the inner hub play, and doubt it is a factor in your slippage....if you had good clutch action (engagement/dis-engagement), and no other untoward symptoms, I'd leave it be & focus on the slippage at hand.
 
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