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Recommended R/R?

  • Thread starter Thread starter smarzinski
  • Start date Start date
I've shipped a few hundred RRs so far and haven't seen a failure yet. I've exchanged a few that were suspected of being bad but all tested out OK. I would not run a stock RR on a GS, sooner or later the diodes go bad and they take the stator with them.
 
smarzinski said:
I was just going to hook everything up the way it is, except, instead of using spade connectors I was going to solder the connections and throw some shrink tube over them. Not good enough? If there is a better way let me know. Didnt take your comments as you being a jerk, no problems.
Click to expand...

I totally agree with the soldering. I soldered the stator wires just today on a bike that I put a Duaneage Honda reulator on two years ago. It did not need ian R/R, I just wanted to upgrade. Its a bike I have been slowly fixing up to use, and now it is ready. I noticed the last few days that it wasn't all that thrilled about spinning the starter. I have been riding it daily with electric vest in the 40 degree rain. I pulled the side cover off and looked at the wires. All three of the stator connectors were hot, one of them was very hot in under 5 minutes of idling. 15 minutes later they were soldred. Now the connections are cool and my starter spins like it should.

I think those overheated connections toast the expensive charging system components. Good connections and additional grounds keep that from happening.

This bike was one of the first I messed with, and it also does not have the grounds I like to add yet, although I did ground the R/R to the battery.

I think the factory crimps on the stator (AFTERMARKET INSTALLED BY THE po) were the problem, but soldering fixed it permanently.
 
Friend of mine took the harness of his 84 750 completely apart.There is 5 or 6 feet of completely unnecessary wires in it.The wires from the stator go quite easily to the R/R.Soldered mine to the OEM conectors.My friend got me a FH008 R/R that I will put in as soon as I can.
 
850 Combat said:
I totally agree with the soldering. I soldered the stator wires just today on a bike that I put a Duaneage Honda reulator on two years ago. It did not need ian R/R, I just wanted to upgrade. Its a bike I have been slowly fixing up to use, and now it is ready. I noticed the last few days that it wasn't all that thrilled about spinning the starter. I have been riding it daily with electric vest in the 40 degree rain. I pulled the side cover off and looked at the wires. All three of the stator connectors were hot, one of them was very hot in under 5 minutes of idling. 15 minutes later they were soldred. Now the connections are cool and my starter spins like it should.

I think those overheated connections toast the expensive charging system components. Good connections and additional grounds keep that from happening.

This bike was one of the first I messed with, and it also does not have the grounds I like to add yet, although I did ground the R/R to the battery.

I think the factory crimps on the stator (AFTERMARKET INSTALLED BY THE po) were the problem, but soldering fixed it permanently.
Click to expand...

Well, this is kind of comforting. From what you explained, it sounds exactly like what was happening to me. I stopped for gas and the bike had a hard time turning over. Just waiting for my new Fluke to get here just to run some test to be safe then Ill be wiring in the new R/R. Ill also be grounding to the battery like you said.
 
SVSooke said:
Friend of mine took the harness of his 84 750 completely apart.There is 5 or 6 feet of completely unnecessary wires in it.The wires from the stator go quite easily to the R/R.Soldered mine to the OEM conectors.My friend got me a FH008 R/R that I will put in as soon as I can.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a good winter project! I wanted to do something to clean up the wiring anyways.
 
All of the wires that were melted were at the spade connectors the p.o. put in. All of the other wires look fine. Im fighting the urge to connect the new one and fire the bike up!!! Im hoping that the connectors were the culprits and thats all its gonna be......hoping! Also ran a wire long enough to ground directly to the battery. My only question is, what do I do with the original ground wire in the wire harness? :confused:
 
smarzinski said:
All of the wires that were melted were at the spade connectors the p.o. put in. All of the other wires look fine. Im fighting the urge to connect the new one and fire the bike up!!! Im hoping that the connectors were the culprits and thats all its gonna be......hoping! Also ran a wire long enough to ground directly to the battery. My only question is, what do I do with the original ground wire in the wire harness? :confused:
Click to expand...

Hi,

Wait a minute. I'm confused. What ground? Normally the stock r/r unit will ground to the battery box. That is the ground that should be moved to the negative terminal of the battery.

If you already have a non-stock r/r unit on your bike then it could be a 6 wire unit with a black "sense" wire and a green ground wire. How many wires does your current r/r unit have?

And wasn't this the one that melted its resin because it got so hot? I would not keep that unit if I were you. Install the new one. Have you tested your stator? What is the AC output voltage of the three legs? What are the resistance readings between the legs and from each leg to frame ground?

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
its a five wire. Three yellow, a red and a black with a white stripe. I looked at the schematic Billy Ricks posted but my wires arent the same colors. I wired the yellows together, the red together, and the black I was gonna run to the battery as I though it was the ground. Is this wrong?
 
smarzinski said:
its a five wire. Three yellow, a red and a black with a white stripe. I looked at the schematic Billy Ricks posted but my wires arent the same colors. I wired the yellows together, the red together, and the black I was gonna run to the battery as I though it was the ground. Is this wrong?
Click to expand...
That's fine but you want make sure you have a ground from the battery to the engine. It's also a good idea to run a ground from one of the r/r mounting bolts to the frame.

This is Jim's, posplayr, diagram.
GS_power_ground_2.jpg
 
Ok yea I got it. The black w/white stripe runs to the battery, all I did was run a new wire instead. Everything is hooked up, just gotta wait for the new Fluke to get here.
 
BassCliff said:
Hi,

Wait a minute. I'm confused. What ground? Normally the stock r/r unit will ground to the battery box. That is the ground that should be moved to the negative terminal of the battery.

If you already have a non-stock r/r unit on your bike then it could be a 6 wire unit with a black "sense" wire and a green ground wire. How many wires does your current r/r unit have?

And wasn't this the one that melted its resin because it got so hot? I would not keep that unit if I were you. Install the new one. Have you tested your stator? What is the AC output voltage of the three legs? What are the resistance readings between the legs and from each leg to frame ground?

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
Click to expand...

Its a whole new R/R that I have wired in. The ground wire from the previous R/R was already grounded to the negative battery terminal. As suggested, Ill run another ground from the R/R mounting bolt to the frame too. I havent tested anything yet as my Fluke decided to stop working and I had to order another. I should be ready to test no later then Wednesday. Thanks for the help!
 
So where am I supposed to ground? The battery? The frame? I have it ground to the negative battery post right now.
 
smarzinski said:
So where am I supposed to ground? The battery? The frame? I have it ground to the negative battery post right now.
Click to expand...
Make sure there is a second ground going from the bettery to the back of the engine in the transmission area. It fits right between the swingarm and the back of the engine. It's also a good idea to run a ground from one of the r/r mounting bolts to the frame.
 
duaneage said:
The frame should be the central ground point, not the RR mounting bolt. This arrangement would invite ground loops and besides, it's hard to implement.
Click to expand...
It's not meant to be an actual ground, it's so the r/r can shunt to something other than itself.
 
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