Replace Separate Rectifier and Separate Regulator

[gaillarry]

My 78 GS1000E has a separate rectifier and a separate regulator.

So I'm upgrading the electrical system with a new fuse box with automotive type fuses, as the backside of the fuse box had melted connectors, a new starter relay, & flasher relay. The wiring from the regulator and the rectifier are a mess-the p.o. used scotch tape on some of the joints!!

Since I have separate wiring connections for the rectifier and for the regulator
whats the best way to combine them to fit a honda R/R ??

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

When you're done, it will look like this:

Just connect the three output wires from the stator directly to the three input wires on the r/r unit. Connect the r/r output to the battery (usually through a fuse in the fuseblock). Connect the r/r ground directly to the negative terminal of the battery. The 6th "sense" wire on the Honda r/r units is connected to a switched 12v source, usually the tail light circuit at the brake light connection.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[gaillarry]

Thanks for the diagram, I need to sort out the fuse box first. The pic below shows my new fuse box. Main power feed is to the bolt on the top. Which socket takes 15 amp main fuse ?

 

[cowboyup3371]

Look at the overall rating of the box. As long as you don't go over that rating than you can put the 15amp ones in any of them (at least the one I'll be using).

 

[Matchless]

Thanks for the diagram, I need to sort out the fuse box first. The pic below shows my new fuse box. Main power feed is to the bolt on the top. Which socket takes 15 amp main fuse ?

Its hard to see, but it seems as if your 6 fuses may all be ganged together to the power feed from the screw. If so, you will need a separate main fuse to feed power to the ignition switch and back to the fuse block. Or better, you need to get the correct fuse block.

 

[gaillarry]

The pic in this link looks to be the same fuse box. The new box has inputs but no outputs which is confusing.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=135904&highlight=fuse+box

 

[Matchless]

The pic in this link looks to be the same fuse box. The new box has inputs but no outputs which is confusing.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=135904&highlight=fuse+box

As Steve said back in January 2009... Your fuse box has only one input, meaning all the inputs are ganged together and the spade terminals are your outputs for each fuse.

 

[Steve]

The easiest way to use that particular fuse block will be to add a single, separate fuse holder for your MAIN feed. Just cut the wire on the "dead" side of the MAIN fuse in your old fuse box, connect it to the new single fuse, run that to the battery or the battery terminal on the starter solenoid. (I prefer the solenoid to minimize extra wires at the battery.)

Power runs from the battery, through the MAIN fuse, to the ignition switch, then back to the fuse box. Cut that orange wire from the ignition switch just before it feeds the fuse box, connect it to the #85 terminal on a relay. Connect the #86 terminal to a ground point. Connect the #30 terminal to the battery post on the starter solenoid, connect the #87 terminal to the input terminal of your new fuse block. All six of your new fuses are now fed switched power straight from the battery.

If you need a diagram to help you vizualize, let me know.

.

 

[gaillarry]

I beginning to understand this now. I'll run an inline fuse on the red wire from the battery to the red wiring going to the ign switch. I'll use the orange wire from the ign switch to power the new fuse block?

 

[gaillarry]

Thanks Steve, a diagram would be great!

 

[gaillarry]

"Cut that orange wire from the ignition switch just before it feeds the fuse box, connect it to the #86 terminal on a relay. Connect the #85 terminal to a ground point. Connect the #30 terminal to the battery post on the starter solenoid, connect the #87 terminal to the input terminal of your new fuse block. All six of your new fuses are now fed switched power straight from the battery."

Got this done per your instructions, thanks!

I haven't done the main power feed as I'm confused about the 3 circled wires in the pic - which one is the main power feed. Before, the red wiring coming from the starter relay was the power feed.

 

[tom203]

Out of curiosity-in your pic, is that trapezoid shaped honda r/r a seven wire unit ? Some hondas r/r's were designed for field controlled stators, like a car alternator.

 

[gaillarry]

It has 8 wires, another I have only has 6

 

[gaillarry]

"The easiest way to use that particular fuse block will be to add a single, separate fuse holder for your MAIN feed. Just cut the wire on the "dead" side of the MAIN fuse in your old fuse box, connect it to the new single fuse, run that to the battery or the battery terminal on the starter solenoid. (I prefer the solenoid to minimize extra wires at the battery.)"

Steve: would you explain this more? I have the new fuse box wired up with the relay, but lost on the main power feed, I presume one of those 2 orange wires shown in the pic above is a main feed??

 

[cowboyup3371]

It's kind of hard to see the wires coming off the solenoid right but that one you have circled right there looks to me like the main one from the battery.

 

[gaillarry]

I suspect the red wire on the solenoid powers the ignition switch through an inline fuse but which wire do I put it to: one of the orange ones I believe?

 

[cowboyup3371]

I don't have access to the wiring diagram I'm using so I can't give you all the right numbers off the top of my head right now; but with mine, one will go to the fuse block to provide main power and one will go to the relay to provide power there. From the fuse block, I'll connect to the red wire going to my ignition switch. The orange from the ignition switch will connect to the relay. The relay will then connect back to the fuse block to control my switched fuses.

Edit: Essentially, find the red that feeds your ignition switch or whatever your wiring diagram states it should be. You'll probably have to trace it out to know for sure.

 

[gaillarry]

Thanks I'll trace those two orange wires and find which one goes to the ign switch.

 

[Steve]

Thanks Steve, a diagram would be great!

OK, try this:

The easiest way to use that particular fuse block will be to add a single, separate fuse holder for your MAIN feed. Just cut the wire on the "dead" side of the MAIN fuse in your old fuse box, connect it to the new single fuse, run that to the battery or the battery terminal on the starter solenoid. (I prefer the solenoid to minimize extra wires at the battery.)

Power runs from the battery, through the MAIN fuse, to the ignition switch, then back to the fuse box. Cut that orange wire from the ignition switch just before it feeds the fuse box, connect it to the #85 terminal on a relay. Connect the #86 terminal to a ground point. Connect the #30 terminal to the battery post on the starter solenoid, connect the #87 terminal to the input terminal of your new fuse block. All six of your new fuses are now fed switched power straight from the battery.

.

 

[duaneage]

The honda rr kits i offer are 6 wire and bolt into the original locations, you're going to need a bracket fo that Shadow RR