Results from fuel filter

[UncleMike]

Put on a real nice high-quality fuel filter today to check if there's crap coming from my tank. She has a nice glass outer and is huge!

Fuel flows nicely and it doesn't look like the filter is collecting anything.

Before I put it on, I opened the float bowl drains, and sprayed carb cleaner down the fuel line to hopefully flush any crap out.

The bike started right up and idled immediately at 2000rpms with half choke, which it never does. Then after about 10 or 20 seconds, the rpms began to fall and it tried to stall out. Had to give it throttle for about a minute for it to idle on its own.

Soooo,...time to pull the carbs and clean out those pilot needles?

 

[83'GK]

If I were you, i would take that 'glass' filter off of there, while it may look cool and all, they break from vibration really easy....Don't ask me how I know...8-[

 

[UncleMike]

If I were you, i would take that 'glass' filter off of there, while it may look cool and all, they break from vibration really easy....Don't ask me how I know...8-[

Oooh, good point.

I wasn't planning on keeping it on too long. I just wanted to see if I was getting any garbage from my tank, and perhaps that was causing my problems.

 

[Hoomgar]

Depending on how it is run in the line and a few other things Mike that filter could actually be causing your problem. Remove it and try again to see what happens would be my advice.

 

[UncleMike]

Depending on how it is run in the line and a few other things Mike that filter could actually be causing your problem. Remove it and try again to see what happens would be my advice.

Well, things did get a bit better than usual with the filter.

Before installation, the bike would start reluctantly with full choke, I'd give it a little gas and the idle would race up to 4000rpms for about 5 seconds, then the rpms would fall and it would stall out unless I gave it some gas for about a minute or so. Then it would idle without choke.

After spraying the carb cleaner in and installing the filter, it started right up and idled at 2000k with only half choke and stayed like that for about 10 seconds,...then it was the same.

Of course, the change is most likely from the carb cleaner.

I'll try it without the filter and let you know.

Thanks!
Mike

 

[semerm]

filter option

filter option

Why not get a hard plastic see through filter? It it clogs it takes 2 minutes to replace it and cleaning the carbs is a little more involved.

 

[UncleMike]

Why not get a hard plastic see through filter? It it clogs it takes 2 minutes to replace it and cleaning the carbs is a little more involved.

The glass one was the highest quality I could find.

 

[UncleMike]

UPDATE:

I drained the float bowls and replaced the drainplugs. Then I sprayed Berryman's down into the carbs and let them fill up with it and let them sit for about 10-20 mins.

Then I drained them of the carb cleaner, put the drainplugs back in and filled the bowls with fuel and started her up. She started right away and ran nicely on the choke at around 1/4-1/2 without trying to stall out. Came off the choke after a minute or two and would idle.

She still takes a little bit to warm up and won't idle real strongly without running her down the road for a while, but it's an improvement. At first she's only idling around 1000-1100, and she'll die if I don't blip the throttle every once in a great while, especially when coming to a stop in the beginning of the ride.

I did notice, however, that after I took her for a run and got her back, she was idling nicely at around 1500rpms. But then when I gave her some throttle, the idle would go back to around 2000rpms. I sprayed all around her boots and exhaust with water and there was no change in the rpms.

I'm thinking a good synching is gonna help a lot, but perhaps I should take the carbs off and give at least the pilot jets a good cleaning beforehand, and while I'm at it, replace the intake o-rings as well, just in case?

How's that for a slice of fried gold?

Mike

 

[tconroy]

If I were you, i would take that 'glass' filter off of there, while it may look cool and all, they break from vibration really easy....Don't ask me how I know...8-[

Any dealer should have the polyurethane or plastic inline filters. I run one on mine but have not had any crude show up.I just feel safer with it on there.Plus I have the clear blue fuel line which makes it easeir to see what the fuel is doing.The filter will be fine as long as it's not horizontal.

 

[jimcor]

I got my little cone shaped plastic filter, same one the dealer wanted 4.95 for, at O' Reilley's or AZ or Advance, one of those discount parts stores in the lawnmower section for .99.

 

[yogib]

I have the glass type filter on my bike,It threads apart so you can clean the screen and reuse it.It is small and made for a motorcycle,the nips are 5/16 I believe.It has been on for about a year(at least 1500mi).I would think that if you don't let the glass lie on anything that could break it, it would be fine.Also,on the inlet side of the float valve there is a screen this may have some junk on it restricting fuel flow.You have to pull the floats out and the valve retainers to get it out.I'm not for sure on your carbs but the 36's(1150) and 34's(1100) both have this screen.It might be worth a look if your troubles persist. My 2cents Don

 

[UncleMike]

Also, on the inlet side of the float valve there is a screen this may have some junk on it restricting fuel flow.You have to pull the floats out and the valve retainers to get it out.I'm not for sure on your carbs but the 36's(1150) and 34's(1100) both have this screen.It might be worth a look if your troubles persist. My 2cents Don

That's interesting. I wish I knew what you were talking about though. Can I have some more info?

 

[Jethro]

Also,on the inlet side of the float valve there is a screen this may have some junk on it restricting fuel flow.You have to pull the floats out and the valve retainers to get it out.I'm not for sure on your carbs but the 36's(1150) and 34's(1100) both have this screen

Yes, most all the GS 4 cyls have 5 filters. One in each float valve assemebly, and one at the petcock itself. Don't rule that one out, I've had mine clog up before.

That clear blue fule line is great stuff. I need a few more feet!

 

[UncleMike]

Yes, most all the GS 4 cyls have 5 filters. One in each float valve assemebly, and one at the petcock itself. Don't rule that one out, I've had mine clog up before.

That clear blue fule line is great stuff. I need a few more feet!

I'll have to get some.

What's the best way to clean/check the float valve assembly filters?

Thanks,
Mike

 

[Jethro]

Gotta pull the float needle seat out of the carbs. On the end of it will be a small half round (half dome) screen filter. You may need new needle seat o-rings though, they don't always come out and go in with a snug fit. Check to see if the screen has any solid areas, caked with either dirt or fuel deposits.

 

[yogib]

Mike,you have to pull the float valve assy. out of the carb.When you take the float out the needle will drop out so be careful.The seat is held in with a metal retainer attached to the body with a screw.Then you can take out the seat,but they can be stuborn.The inlet(other)side of the seat is a screen that acts as a prefilter.This whole process is much easier with the carbs off but can be done while on the bike.I've gotta jet for now but if you still need help I can send you some pics if needed.dmgillotte@cox.net I'm still figuring my camara out or I'd post them here.Later Don

 

[yogib]

I'm a slow typer! Jethro's spot on! cycleorings.com $12 to your door for complete oring kit.Cool guy, good sh**t.Now I'm really late!Don

 

[UncleMike]

Ordered a set from Robert when I cleaned/rebuilt the carbs on the 450. Most of them didn't fit, however, so I've got a bunch left over. I'll have to see if I still have those.

Thanks guys. You're great as always.

Mike

 

[J_C]

Here's a close up of the Screen

 

[J_C]

And here's where it goes once its fitted on the brass fitting