Results from fuel filter

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I haven't read every word posted here, but you have classic intake leak symptoms even if you don't think you have intake leaks.
Don't even bother to synch or otherwise tune until the manifolds or any manifold o-rings are replaced. You may be lucky and just have loose manifold clamps but most likely the manifolds/o-rings are bad. Just takes one carb to cause a high/erratic idle.
You shouldn't spray carb cleaners so the carbs inner o-rings are contacted, or any other rubber parts. Immediately rinse with gas. Cleaners harden the o-rings.

 

[UncleMike]

I haven't read every word posted here, but you have classic intake leak symptoms even if you don't think you have intake leaks.
Don't even bother to synch or otherwise tune until the manifolds or any manifold o-rings are replaced. You may be lucky and just have loose manifold clamps but most likely the manifolds/o-rings are bad. Just takes one carb to cause a high/erratic idle.
You shouldn't spray carb cleaners so the carbs inner o-rings are contacted, or any other rubber parts. Immediately rinse with gas. Cleaners harden the o-rings.

Intake leaks would cause it to stall out after starting and idling for a bit?

Or to stall out after cruising for a while at high rpms and then coming to a stop?

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

She still takes a little bit to warm up and won't idle real strongly without running her down the road for a while, but it's an improvement. At first she's only idling around 1000-1100, and she'll die if I don't blip the throttle every once in a great while, especially when coming to a stop in the beginning of the ride.

I did notice, however, that after I took her for a run and got her back, she was idling nicely at around 1500rpms. But then when I gave her some throttle, the idle would go back to around 2000rpms. I sprayed all around her boots and exhaust with water and there was no change in the rpms.

I'm thinking a good synching is gonna help a lot, but perhaps I should take the carbs off and give at least the pilot jets a good cleaning beforehand, and while I'm at it, replace the intake o-rings as well, just in case?


Mike

Intake leaks cause all kinds of performance problems and sometimes even appear to change or "come and go", but never for long.
I'd fix any intake leaks, be sure the carbs are clean inside, adjust the mixture screws using the highest rpm method, synch the carbs and test.

 

[UncleMike]

Intake leaks cause all kinds of performance problems and sometimes even appear to change or "come and go", but never for long.
I'd fix any intake leaks, be sure the carbs are clean inside, adjust the mixture screws using the highest rpm method, synch the carbs and test.

So the real question is: If I can't isolate any leaks with the "spray" method, how do I fix 'em? All my boots are supple and apparently sealing.

 

[J_C]

What's the highest rpm method? Is it simply adjusting the screw one way or the other until the RPM peaks before dropping again?


Mike I love your questions. They are all my questions I havn't gotten around to yet

 

[J_C]

Nevermind, just saw your other post Keith

 

[Hoomgar]

How about in the front of the barb boots Mike? Where they bolt to the head. That is the o-rings everyone is asking you about and you haven't answered yet. If those are bad, you wont see any intake leaks at the boot on the carb side, it will leak right there between the head and the back of the boot surface. If those turn out to be 100% sealed for sure and no other leaks then I'm sticking to my original assessment that those carbs need to come off, be disassembled, dipped and cleaned properly. That bike had been sitting when you got it right?

 

[UncleMike]

How about in the front of the barb boots Mike? Where they bolt to the head. That is the o-rings everyone is asking you about and you haven't answered yet. If those are bad, you wont see any intake leaks at the boot on the carb side, it will leak right there between the head and the back of the boot surface. If those turn out to be 100% sealed for sure and no other leaks then I'm sticking to my original assessment that those carbs need to come off, be disassembled, dipped and cleaned properly. That bike had been sitting when you got it right?

Like I said, I've sprayed and sprayed around there and I get no change in RPM, so I can only assume they're sealed.

As far as I know the bike hadn't been sitting, and if it was it was only for a month or so, which I suppose could be enough to screw things up, considering the quality of gas lately.

Earl still says we should synch first.

 

[Hoomgar]

Like I said, I've sprayed and sprayed around there and I get no change in RPM, so I can only assume they're sealed.

As far as I know the bike hadn't been sitting, and if it was it was only for a month or so, which I suppose could be enough to screw things up, considering the quality of gas lately.

Earl still says we should synch first.

Definitely sync. It is no bother and will tell it's tale. Your still waiting on your sticks right?

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Well, then do what Earl says.
All I can say is you have intake leak symptoms. Any significant rise in idle rpm from cold to hot is almost always an intake leak. Once in a while it can be something mechanical (throttle plate/slide sticking with heat).
I can't tell you how many owners (including me) have searched for an intake leak by spraying and found nothing. The spray test isn't 100% positive.

 

[UncleMike]

You're still waiting on your sticks right?

Indeed. Perpetually.

Were supposed to be here on Thurs.

 

[UncleMike]

Well, then do what Earl says.
All I can say is you have intake leak symptoms. Any significant rise in idle rpm from cold to hot is almost always an intake leak. Once in a while it can be something mechanical (throttle plate/slide sticking with heat).
I can't tell you how many owners (including me) have searched for an intake leak by spraying and found nothing. The spray test isn't 100% positive.

Always. Although at this point, I want to just tear 'em down to make SURE they're clean and operating correctly.

 

[Sandy]

Time to to do the whole job. It only takes a couple of minutes to change the intake o-rings. Do the all the o-rings on the carbs too. Carbs are one of those things that will drive you nuts if they're not done completely and correctly. Sometimes you get lucky, most times not.

 

[Hoomgar]

Always. Although at this point, I want to just tear 'em down to make SURE they're clean and operating correctly.

Wisdom is whispering in your ear, listen to her

 

[UncleMike]

Wisdom is whispering in your ear, listen to her

Hoom, you're sending mixed signals. Earl tells me not to tear them down, and you tell me to listen to him. I want to tear them down, and you tell me to do it.

You're not very easy to please.

 

[Hoomgar]

Hoom, you're sending mixed signals. Earl tells me not to tear them down, and you tell me to listen to him. I want to tear them down, and you tell me to do it.

You're not very easy to please.

LOL! Bottom line, follow what Earl says. That is all.


All I am saying is I really think if it was me... I'd just have them pulled by now and have gone over them. I would have suffered even until now with my GS1000 if I hadn't done this and as it was it took longer than it needed to before I saved it. I never did motorcycle carbs before that bike but now I know the benfits to doing them right! I saved that bike man. It ran like cr@p when I got it! Ask the people who saw it run. And I tried all kinds of "short cut" tricks before I broke down and got it done. You wouldn't even know it's the same engine now. My problem was I NEEDED a jet kit and it was just never going to be right until I got it. Getting the jet kit was one of the first tips that was given to me and I didn't do it until 2 months later. Once I did it, I was done!

If Earl says wait, do what Earl says, he knows his stuff.

 

[frosty5011]

Hoom, you're sending mixed signals. Earl tells me not to tear them down, and you tell me to listen to him. I want to tear them down, and you tell me to do it.

You're not very easy to please.

Earl says, don't listen to Hoomie............Keith says, listen to Earl............Hoomie says, pull out your screwdrivers and adjust anything that's adjustable.:-D

I say, listen to Ice109 and start wrapping your jumper cables around your stator!:-D

 

[Hoomgar]

Earl says, don't listen to Hoomie............Keith says, listen to Earl............Hoomie says, pull out your screwdrivers and adjust anything that's adjustable.:-D

I say, listen to Ice109 and start wrapping your jumper cables around your stator!:-D

And I tell you, don't listen to this man! :shock: :lol:

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

UPDATE:

She still takes a little bit to warm up and won't idle real strongly without running her down the road for a while, but it's an improvement. At first she's only idling around 1000-1100, and she'll die if I don't blip the throttle every once in a great while, especially when coming to a stop in the beginning of the ride.

I did notice, however, that after I took her for a run and got her back, she was idling nicely at around 1500rpms. But then when I gave her some throttle, the idle would go back to around 2000rpms. I sprayed all around her boots and exhaust with water and there was no change in the rpms.

I'm thinking a good synching is gonna help a lot, but perhaps I should take the carbs off and give at least the pilot jets a good cleaning beforehand, and while I'm at it, replace the intake o-rings as well, just in case?



Mike

Somebody please tell me how a carb synch is gonna fix an idle that rises that much after it's hot?
The carbs need to be cleaned and the intake leaks fixed first. You can't synch with intake leaks.
Yes, there's the small chance as I've mentioned that one or more throttle plates could be sticking after heating up. If so, then the carbs still need to be cleaned and inspected. You can't synch carbs with sticking throttle plates either.
The carbs need cleaning and possibly the carb o-rings replaced, and while you're at it, the manifolds/any o-rings should be checked. Any o-rings have to be checked by eye. Flattened/hard/brittle/cracking o-rings are toast. Bench synch the carbs and pay close attention to the throttle plates operation. Warm up the bike and then adjust the mixture screws for best idle. Then follow all this with a vacuum tool synch.
This is just standard procedure when doing carbs. Standard order.

 

[UncleMike]

Somebody please tell me how a carb synch is gonna fix an idle that rises that much after it's hot?
The carbs need to be cleaned and the intake leaks fixed first. You can't synch with intake leaks.
Yes, there's the small chance as I've mentioned that one or more throttle plates could be sticking after heating up. If so, then the carbs still need to be cleaned and inspected. You can't synch carbs with sticking throttle plates either.
The carbs need cleaning and possibly the carb o-rings replaced, and while you're at it, the manifolds/any o-rings should be checked. Any o-rings have to be checked by eye. Flattened/hard/brittle/cracking o-rings are toast. Bench synch the carbs and pay close attention to the throttle plates operation. Warm up the bike and then adjust the mixture screws for best idle. Then follow all this with a vacuum tool synch.
This is just standard procedure when doing carbs. Standard order.

Keith,

I can't tell you how much I appreciate any amount of time you are willing to spend diagnosing the myriad of problems I've had. I'm not trying to make you angry, I'm simply stuck between many experts. Earl hasn't steered me wrong, and neither have you. Please don't blame me. I'm just a fool sitting at the feet of GS genius'. It's my inclination to tear 'em apart at this point, honestly. But I accept the fact that others know much more than me in this regard.

Speaking of which, doesn't some forum member sell intake o-rings? I've already got the carb o-ring kit from Robert Barr. Just need to get the float bowl gaskets now.

Mike