Not always, the overflows can get clogged sometimes, and sometimes they get routed wrong or kinked.
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Not always, the overflows can get clogged sometimes, and sometimes they get routed wrong or kinked.
A
andtheacademics
Guest
Yeah, no gas was coming from my overflows, it was all spilling out through my airbox (pods).
Yeah, I can see that.
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MadCapsule
Guest
New airbox boots can be had from Boulevard Suzuki for about 10 bucks apiece. Part # 13728-45010 is what you want.
Everyone lists them as "drain hoses" for reasons that I will never understand, but they are indeed the correct parts. Just installed the set I ordered yesterday!
Everyone lists them as "drain hoses" for reasons that I will never understand, but they are indeed the correct parts. Just installed the set I ordered yesterday!
T
TheCafeKid
Guest
Aside from all your other troubles (and it seems as though you have a bit to sort out, but it could be much much much worse. At least it's pretty 
) your main jet is way too large. You'll need to be more around the 117.5-122.5 range. I'd order 117.5s and 120s and you can likely get it to work well with those.
The petcock sounds like its goose is cooked. And just because the carbs "look" clean doesn't mean they are. Float levels will need to be checked that they're set right. But you'll find all this info here. It's a great resource. Those 750s are bulletproof and nice machines when sorted. Get her sorted out and shell surprise you with how nimble she is, and while not a power monster, quick enough in her own right. She's no SV1K, but riding one of these ol girls on the edge is quite an experience compared to a newer bike.
) your main jet is way too large. You'll need to be more around the 117.5-122.5 range. I'd order 117.5s and 120s and you can likely get it to work well with those. The petcock sounds like its goose is cooked. And just because the carbs "look" clean doesn't mean they are. Float levels will need to be checked that they're set right. But you'll find all this info here. It's a great resource. Those 750s are bulletproof and nice machines when sorted. Get her sorted out and shell surprise you with how nimble she is, and while not a power monster, quick enough in her own right. She's no SV1K, but riding one of these ol girls on the edge is quite an experience compared to a newer bike.
A
andtheacademics
Guest
I have some mid-range pods I bought before - is a 130 is too large even for those? At least now I know I wasn't cooking my engine before...
To be completely honest I've never cleaned carbs out of the rack before, and it wasn't half bad... it still took me about six hours. Followed the site instructions (and BassCliff's) and now they're back on prim and proper. Didn't have to run a wire though anything, nor did I have any trouble getting the floats out, BUT all four floats were wayyy off spec, one as high as 19mm, so even if the carbs were not the cause of my gas leak I would be willing to bet they were compounding it. Also I found that the #2 manifold boot had not been fully tightened onto the engine block!... Interesting that #2 should be the cylinder that supplies vacuum to the petcock... (even though I've already established my petcock is likely smoked)
Tomorrow she'll get the oil/ filter change, and I'll get the pipes off to see if they're holding fluid. I have pictures but not my computer so I'll post later.
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TheCafeKid
Guest
You shouldn't need to pull the pipes. Just pull the plugs out, and spin the motor over a few times. It'll pump out any gas in the cylinders. Just watch it doesn't spray it all over you
130 with pods is too much. It'll be wet and sloppy at the top end. 117.5 or 120 with the pods and pipe, and the needle clips moved down toward the point one notch or two with the stock pilot (#15) should be pretty close to ideal. Of course, I wouldn't mess with that honestly until you checked your valve clearance adjustment situation (also a great tutorial on Cliffs site) as this is a really important step and often very neglected by non GSR member owners. They're to be checked for proper clearance every 3-5000 miles. It's likely you won't have to change but a shim or two if any once you get them in spec after the first couple of checks, but tight valves lead to many problems, the worst of which is poor compression and cooked valves. Hard cold starting, buzziness, poor idle, and poor running are others. They're a shim over bucket design, easy to deal with once you get the hang of it. Most times it takes more time to scrap the old valve cover gasket off the mating surfaces than actually adjusting them..
This sh!t makes you feel good don't it? Fixing the issues one by one - heading toward the prize!
G
Guest
Guest
I had my carbs flood out once, guess the vacuum piece of carp didn't close...anyways, I went to start the bike and it hydraulic on me. Stopped the engine cold. I pulled out the plugs to spin the engine to clear it out and tons of gas came shooting on the #1 and #2 plug holes. Luckly it didn't crack the piston and no gas smell in the oil. Must have happened that nite so it didn't have time to work pass the oil rings. Now on larger engines I've seen that hydraulic they busted the a piston big time. If your bike hydraulics don't try to force it to spin. Once it stops get the plugs out then spin it to clear it out.
Using good pods, I think +/- 122.5 with the clip placed 4th down from the top would be in order.
agreed, 130's are way too big...
A
andtheacademics
Guest
Heck yea! It feels great to learn new stuff & fix broken things! Now if only there were some way to get all the parts for free!
When I spin the engine I'm assuming I have to take off the cover and turn it with a ratchet much like BikeCliff's valve tutorial? Or can I just jam on the kickstarter a couple times - I'm guessing the latter with shoot oil all over...
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MisterCinders
Guest
Yes, remove the right hand ignition cover and use a 19mm wrench to turn the engine by hand. Unless you were born under the red sun of Krypton and draw your powers from our alien yellow sun, you'll need the bike in neutral.
Only rotate the engine forward (clockwise). If you go too far to line up a cam, then keep going and line it up on the next rotation.
A
andtheacademics
Guest
Alright, I may not have been born under the red sun of Krypton, but I'm beginning to suspect that many members of this forum have psychic abilities...
I pull out my oil plug and lo and behold, my oil may as well have been gas! I'm pretty sure, prior to this thread, my gs750 could have been employed to mix fuel for weed whackers and chainsaws.
Anywho, ran down and got some 15w40 rotella (on sale $12.99!) and am replacing that whole situation right now however - I'm currently spinning my motor with the spark plugs removed and nothing is coming out! am I doing something wrong?
Also my #4 spark plug is SUPER DARK - coincidentally the fuel pilot on that cylinder was cranked out three turns from bottom while the rest were closer to one.
Also I forgot to mention that none of my carbs have springs on the fuel pilots... only on the air pilots.
Also My petcock is behaving very well now HOWEVER one of my symptoms of fuel leaks was the bike would slow/ stop leaking over night, and when I pushed it out into the sun to work on it, it would beging leaking again. I thought it was because of whatever I was doing to the carbs... but allow me to submit this hypothesis;
(HOT SUN + BLACK GAS TANK) -> (Expanding fuel & air in gas tank) multiplied by (worn petcock) = slow gas leak that may be undetectable on a rainy 55 degree day!
I pull out my oil plug and lo and behold, my oil may as well have been gas! I'm pretty sure, prior to this thread, my gs750 could have been employed to mix fuel for weed whackers and chainsaws.
Anywho, ran down and got some 15w40 rotella (on sale $12.99!) and am replacing that whole situation right now however - I'm currently spinning my motor with the spark plugs removed and nothing is coming out! am I doing something wrong?
Also my #4 spark plug is SUPER DARK - coincidentally the fuel pilot on that cylinder was cranked out three turns from bottom while the rest were closer to one.
Also I forgot to mention that none of my carbs have springs on the fuel pilots... only on the air pilots.
Also My petcock is behaving very well now HOWEVER one of my symptoms of fuel leaks was the bike would slow/ stop leaking over night, and when I pushed it out into the sun to work on it, it would beging leaking again. I thought it was because of whatever I was doing to the carbs... but allow me to submit this hypothesis;
(HOT SUN + BLACK GAS TANK) -> (Expanding fuel & air in gas tank) multiplied by (worn petcock) = slow gas leak that may be undetectable on a rainy 55 degree day!
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MisterCinders
Guest
You aren't spinning that motor without oil in the crankcase though. Right?
Dark can be two things. If your plug is dark and dry (sooty), rich cylinder. No surprise there if the fuel screw is 3 turns out. If dry and wet like fresh black nail polish, that is oil-fouled. Symptom of a problem in the head, valves piston rings, etc.
Your hot tank theory makes sense to me, but I am pretty dumb. When the petcock leaks, is it through the vacuum line? Also check the venting near the gas cap. There should be a small hole there to prevent vapor lock that would block your fuel flow. See if it's clogged.
You can also test this and your petcock theory by loosening the gas cap while your bike is in the blazing San Francisco sun :-D. If the leak goes away or diminishes with the cap loose or off, then your theory might be good, and you need to sort out the tank venting. Otherwise, you'll get fuel supply issues after riding a bit. If the leak continues, then your petcock leak theory may falter.
HTH
Dark can be two things. If your plug is dark and dry (sooty), rich cylinder. No surprise there if the fuel screw is 3 turns out. If dry and wet like fresh black nail polish, that is oil-fouled. Symptom of a problem in the head, valves piston rings, etc.
Your hot tank theory makes sense to me, but I am pretty dumb. When the petcock leaks, is it through the vacuum line? Also check the venting near the gas cap. There should be a small hole there to prevent vapor lock that would block your fuel flow. See if it's clogged.
You can also test this and your petcock theory by loosening the gas cap while your bike is in the blazing San Francisco sun :-D. If the leak goes away or diminishes with the cap loose or off, then your theory might be good, and you need to sort out the tank venting. Otherwise, you'll get fuel supply issues after riding a bit. If the leak continues, then your petcock leak theory may falter.
HTH
A
andtheacademics
Guest
...... is the bike totaled now?
Plug is dark and sooty, phew.
My hypothesis is that the petcock leaked through the vacuum line AND the main line while the bike was sitting. Since I had gas leaking constantly from a bike that was not turned on - something I now know shouldn't happen with a vacuum petcock. If that's not it then I'm getting fuel in my oil via a blown gasket or valve ring?
I'm going to run the bike right now from a funnel of gas and I suppose I'll test the tank vent - however I think I will go the route of "replace petcock, no questions asked" per Bike Cliff instructions.
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andtheacademics
Guest
$17 to ship a petcock! DeLand Suzuki, I was born at night, not last night!
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MisterCinders
Guest
I wouldn't turn the engine without oil, though your hand cranks with the residual oil probably didn't hurt.
You will do the oil before firing up the engine with the funnel though . . .
Also, if you are going to idle the engine standing still for more than a minute or so, put a fan in front of the bike. A cheap box fan will do, but remember that you have an AIR COOLED engine. Hence, you need air to flow over it.
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andtheacademics
Guest
Yeah I was going to say - I didn't see a vent in the tank - how do I check if the cap is venting?
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MisterCinders
Guest
If opening the cap makes a hissing release sound or improves operation, you probably have a venting problem.