No they get shorter again when they cool off. What happens with miles is that the valve wears into the valve seat a little deeper, so the stem sticks out the other side a little farther. Hence, the need for thinner shims.
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No they get shorter again when they cool off. What happens with miles is that the valve wears into the valve seat a little deeper, so the stem sticks out the other side a little farther. Hence, the need for thinner shims.
A
andtheacademics
Guest
...Yoda, taking me to school once more.
Yes - I've gone through the guide several times, but I really wanted to know "why am I changing these shims?"
Here's my buy list for Z1
-Tappet Depressor Tool
-Float Level Tool
-2.50mm & 2.60 mm shims
-2 feet clear gas line (1/4)
-2 feet clear vacuum line (1/8?)
Any suggestions/ additions?
Also, I'm no rocket scientist, but with the bike (cold) in (first) gear holding down the clutch, shouldn't I be able to push it around? Because right now I can't...
Yes - I've gone through the guide several times, but I really wanted to know "why am I changing these shims?"
Here's my buy list for Z1
-Tappet Depressor Tool
-Float Level Tool
-2.50mm & 2.60 mm shims
-2 feet clear gas line (1/4)
-2 feet clear vacuum line (1/8?)
Any suggestions/ additions?
Also, I'm no rocket scientist, but with the bike (cold) in (first) gear holding down the clutch, shouldn't I be able to push it around? Because right now I can't...
Valve cover gasket?
A
andtheacademics
Guest
It actually does have all new gaskets throughought - I'm suspect the PPO pulled the engine apart, heat painted it, put new gaskets in it, put it back together and called it "rebuilt."
I found clear lines at the auto parts store! Gas & Vacuum! Go capitalism!
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andtheacademics
Guest
Alright:
- Charged the bike for a day
- Cranked the motor again with the spark plugs out to clear anything that might be in there (nothing came out)
- Cleaned plugs with carb cleaner
- Pulled carbs, drained - checked fuel pilots (all at 1-1/4 turn)
- Replaced fuel line with clear 1/4 (eliminating the fuel filter)
- Disconnected my turn signal wiring in case I did something wrong that is ****ing off the electrical system
Still the bike will not start just keeps turning turn turn turn turn turn turn turn all the leaves are brown...
I tried the spark plug test - not sure if I'm doing it right
-Pull plug from engine
-Reconnect wire to spark plug
-Hold threads of plug against ground surface (I used the side of the engine block)
-Press start button
I only saw a few very faint sparks between the engine and the plug threads, but the plug did not appear to be sparking at all...
The bike "ran" less than a week ago...
Also, I dont think the gas cap is venting at all- there is a solid rubber seal around the cap that very tightly fits the tank opening I can't see where anything would be able to vent...
- Charged the bike for a day
- Cranked the motor again with the spark plugs out to clear anything that might be in there (nothing came out)
- Cleaned plugs with carb cleaner
- Pulled carbs, drained - checked fuel pilots (all at 1-1/4 turn)
- Replaced fuel line with clear 1/4 (eliminating the fuel filter)
- Disconnected my turn signal wiring in case I did something wrong that is ****ing off the electrical system
Still the bike will not start just keeps turning turn turn turn turn turn turn turn all the leaves are brown...
I tried the spark plug test - not sure if I'm doing it right
-Pull plug from engine
-Reconnect wire to spark plug
-Hold threads of plug against ground surface (I used the side of the engine block)
-Press start button
I only saw a few very faint sparks between the engine and the plug threads, but the plug did not appear to be sparking at all...
The bike "ran" less than a week ago...
Also, I dont think the gas cap is venting at all- there is a solid rubber seal around the cap that very tightly fits the tank opening I can't see where anything would be able to vent...
A
andtheacademics
Guest
UPDATE:
Went to auto parts store and bought all new spark plugs.
Left the bike on the trickle charger.
(Inadvertantly I left the key in the 'on' position w/ spark plug wires detached - I'm not used to having a headlight switch...)
Now the bike is DEAD AS A DOORNAIL... the trickle charger is indicating that my battery (which is brand new) is fully charged, but the bike is not responding to anything, no cluster lights, no start button, no brake lights, nothing. It's as if there is no battery in it at all.
EVERY TIME I TOUCH THIS BIKE SOMETHING BREAKS! WTF!!!
Went to auto parts store and bought all new spark plugs.
Left the bike on the trickle charger.
(Inadvertantly I left the key in the 'on' position w/ spark plug wires detached - I'm not used to having a headlight switch...)
Now the bike is DEAD AS A DOORNAIL... the trickle charger is indicating that my battery (which is brand new) is fully charged, but the bike is not responding to anything, no cluster lights, no start button, no brake lights, nothing. It's as if there is no battery in it at all.
EVERY TIME I TOUCH THIS BIKE SOMETHING BREAKS! WTF!!!
Did you check the fuses with a test light? Don't just visually look at them as they can brake under the metal caps.
A
andtheacademics
Guest
I can't find my fusebox! Still waiting for the service manual to finish downloading - but It's supposed to be on the left side of the battery, right?
I thought the little blue label thing was the fusebox but when I took it apart because there's nothing workable onable in there!
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A
andtheacademics
Guest
I found it! (After some cussing, a piece of fried chicken and a glass of wine) That's really all suzuki thought to put there!? Here I was thinking the PPO lazily wired his 'rebuild.'
Here is the offender:
Ran out, got a new fuse (10A is what was in there...) and BANG she started right up!!!!!!!
#1 - It is AMAZING the effect of four new spark plugs. Possibly the easiest $12 improvement that can be made?
#2 - I have NEVER kick-started a motorcycle before - BAD. AZZ. I've been grinning ear to ear for the last hour.
Here's a video of her bellowing out the last of her gas-oiled white smoke (and backfiring from #4)
Here's a video of her idling roughly and revving to ~5k (the backfiring appeared to stop after a short ride)
She WILL NOT idle below 1,500 in fact, it seems as though as soon as she gets below 1,750 she starts really struggling and geting bogged down.. should I close up the pilot fuels a quarter turn?
(I know the pods aren't great, but they are new, and a definite improvement from what had been delivered with the bike. I don't have it in my budget right now to upgrade to KN due to the fact i'm going to need to buy the shimming equipment, some new main jets, a carb synch tool, and I HAVE to rebuild the friggin' front brakes, the lever is like grabbing a rubber stress relief ball)
Back to my petcock issues:
Here's the tank
Here's the cap
The rubber gasket appears to make a complete seal - if I'm getting enough pressure built up in the tank can it override a functioning petcock?
Also - in the picture you can see a tiny hole above the two rivets, I suspect that is supposed to let vapor out through a hollow chamber connected to the two can opener looking notches at the 12 & 6 positions of the circumference?
Here is the offender:
Ran out, got a new fuse (10A is what was in there...) and BANG she started right up!!!!!!!
#1 - It is AMAZING the effect of four new spark plugs. Possibly the easiest $12 improvement that can be made?
#2 - I have NEVER kick-started a motorcycle before - BAD. AZZ. I've been grinning ear to ear for the last hour.
Here's a video of her bellowing out the last of her gas-oiled white smoke (and backfiring from #4)
Here's a video of her idling roughly and revving to ~5k (the backfiring appeared to stop after a short ride)
She WILL NOT idle below 1,500 in fact, it seems as though as soon as she gets below 1,750 she starts really struggling and geting bogged down.. should I close up the pilot fuels a quarter turn?
(I know the pods aren't great, but they are new, and a definite improvement from what had been delivered with the bike. I don't have it in my budget right now to upgrade to KN due to the fact i'm going to need to buy the shimming equipment, some new main jets, a carb synch tool, and I HAVE to rebuild the friggin' front brakes, the lever is like grabbing a rubber stress relief ball)
Back to my petcock issues:
Here's the tank
Here's the cap
The rubber gasket appears to make a complete seal - if I'm getting enough pressure built up in the tank can it override a functioning petcock?
Also - in the picture you can see a tiny hole above the two rivets, I suspect that is supposed to let vapor out through a hollow chamber connected to the two can opener looking notches at the 12 & 6 positions of the circumference?
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T
TheCafeKid
Guest
I can't find my fusebox! Still waiting for the service manual to finish downloading - but It's supposed to be on the left side of the battery, right?
I thought the little blue label thing was the fusebox but when I took it apart because there's nothing workable onable in there!
That's an igniter box. What year is this again??? 1978 did not have an igniter. Someone has installed later ignition on your GS. Not a bad thing, but they've probably hacked into the wiring to power it. And what's more, that little glass fuse is now protecting an amazingly expensive part in that igniter. Those puppies are last I looked over $400 new. If you've got charging issues that glass fuse may not protect the igniter from cooking.
It's good that the guy got rid of the point and condenser ignition, but you might want to consider installing an actual fuse block if you've any electrical prowess. At very least, cut that bloody glass fuse holder out of there and install a blade type fuse holder and fuse.
I've never seen someone splice an igniter based ignition system into a bike that didn't have it..
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A
andtheacademics
Guest
I have NO electrical prowess - that's why dead bike = me angry! I couldn't tell you what anything was on a wiring diagram, other than maybe a wire.
Obviously I'm going to have to learn, because I have no turn signals still...
Would you care to elaborate on the value of an ignitor? What does it do? And how does it do it differently than the original stock part?
EDIT: Upon re-reading the 10 newbie mistakes (#11 of which is the title of this thread) I wanted to clarify that I have no intention of fixing this bike up and pawning it off on someone else! I only titled because I felt i was on the receiving end of that deal...
A: I was cursed with one of those pesky conscience thingys,
B: Fixing a motorcycle bonds you to it in a special way.
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Your bike came with breaker points ignition, because that's what they had in 1978. Points open and close in time with the crankshaft rotation. When they are closed, current flows through the coil. When they open, current stops flowing, which triggers a huge spark for the spark plugs.
Points are very simple, old school reliable, and you need to mess with them once a year or so for 1/2 hour, and buy new points every few years. They have gotten expensive. Advantage, works with a nearly dead battery, simple to fix alongside some road in Algeria or someplace.
Electronic, no messing with it ever as long as it works. Signal generator makes a tiny electronic signal at a certain time in the crankshaft's rotation. Ignitor, amplifies this signal and turns it into a suitable trigger to cause the coil to make it's huge spark. When it fails you are dead in the water, hard to fix without specialized tools and parts. It won't even think about making a spark with a dead battery.
Points are very simple, old school reliable, and you need to mess with them once a year or so for 1/2 hour, and buy new points every few years. They have gotten expensive. Advantage, works with a nearly dead battery, simple to fix alongside some road in Algeria or someplace.
Electronic, no messing with it ever as long as it works. Signal generator makes a tiny electronic signal at a certain time in the crankshaft's rotation. Ignitor, amplifies this signal and turns it into a suitable trigger to cause the coil to make it's huge spark. When it fails you are dead in the water, hard to fix without specialized tools and parts. It won't even think about making a spark with a dead battery.
A
andtheacademics
Guest
Thank you, I think I get it now...
eek, sounds like you are not so hot on the ignitor option...
eek, sounds like you are not so hot on the ignitor option...
No they are great. BUt I'm in no hurry to replace a perfectly good points system, and for some bikes, I'd prefer points. Like the bike I ride across Asia or a cafe racer that will have no battery.
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andtheacademics
Guest
Cafe racers don't have batteries!? What the dickens!? Are the plugs powered by hope?
A
andtheacademics
Guest
So I would assume they've all got to have a kickstart then?
T
TheCafeKid
Guest
Either that or you'll have to get good at bump starting or have a pit crew that wheels around one of those out board starter motors for you
By the way, at least in most states, this is not an option. Although you can run a bike with a "total loss" ignition system (ala race bikes) you still need a battery to run a head lamp and signals and other lights. In the US, full time running headlamps have been required since the early 80s. And in most states, if it came with lights/signals, it has to have lights and signals. Besides, none of the moron cagers around here know what the hell the old fashioned hand signals mean anymore. If you hold your hand up to signal a right turn, they'll likely just "wave back" after they've run you over...
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