So close and yet...

[wera racer]

After building this vintage racer for six months, I'm now scrambling to get the GS1000 ready for Barber next weekend and the new top end is on but the valve job has made all the shim clearances too tight and my meager selection of shims won't work.

I checked eBay and did a google search for kits, but no joy. There are some that come with two of each size but I may very well need eight of each size. Also looked for a shim bank here, but I'm not seeing one. Maybe it's called something different?

The thinest shims I have are 2.60mm and they are too thick. The thinest feeler gauge I have is .038mm and it won't fit. So basically I think I need eight of each of several sizes smaller than 2.60.

Any suggestions on where I can get some quickly?

Many thanks!
Rick

 

[Agemax]

local suzuki dealer?

 

[Guest]

A tip on determining sizes in case you don't know it...

If you can rotate the shim bucket but not get the feeler gauge in, one shim size should be enough.

If you can't rotate the shim bucket, you have contact and will probably need to go down at least two shim sizes.

 

[wera racer]

A tip on determining sizes in case you don't know it...

If you can rotate the shim bucket but not get the feeler gauge in, one shim size should be enough.

If you can't rotate the shim bucket, you have contact and will probably need to go down at least two shim sizes.

Great tips, thanks.

 

[hampshirehog]

If you've had a valve job done you're going to need to buy a 2.15 shim and start swapping that over the valves so that you can at least get a gap to measure. If there's no gap with a 2.15 you're going to have to take the top of the valves off.

Somebody on here was going to have a look at grinding down the dimple inside the buckets to get clearance. Anyone know if it worked?

 

[Guest]

Great tips, thanks.

No worries, although I'm only passing the tip on, can't take credit for that!

 

[wera racer]

Thank you, gentlemen. Is there anything more frustrating than spending six months on a build (and don't ask how much $) and not being able to get ready for the first of only two or three races that can be attended this year?

I think I need 2.50 and 2.55mm shims, preferably eight of each, so if anyone can help it will be much appreciated. We've got to keep these great old bikes on the track (and road).

Much obliged, Rick.

 

[Buffalo Bill]

Check the racing roster for Suzuki riders.

Check the racing roster for Suzuki riders.

Thank you, gentlemen. Is there anything more frustrating than spending six months on a build (and don't ask how much $) and not being able to get ready for the first of only two or three races that can be attended this year?

I think I need 2.50 and 2.55mm shims, preferably eight of each, so if anyone can help it will be much appreciated. We've got to keep these great old bikes on the track (and road).

Much obliged, Rick.

You might look up who else is riding a GS1000 in your race club check the names and try to contact them, they might help you.
Bill

 

[Steve]

Why do you need eight of each?

Do you already have eight shims that are exactly the same size?

In all the bikes I have worked on (including some that had never had an adjustment, so still had factory-original shims), I have never seen all eight shims the same size.

To do a proper valve adjustment, you can NOT guess what shims you will need. You need to measure each clearance, then remove each shim (one at a time, please) to inspect it to see what size it is. It helps to record this information. (see below) Since you likely have shims of differing sizes, you will probably be able to move some around to minimize the number of shims you will need.

Suggestion: read the invitation in my sig. Act upon it as you wish. 464 users (so far) have found it reasonably helpful. :-\\\

.

 

[wera racer]

I hear you, Steve, thanks. Yes, they are different thicknesses, but all within about 0.05mm, so the 2.5 or 2.55, plus the spares I have will get me there. Time is of the essence, however. Thanks

 

[7981GS]

Where are you located? I could "loan" you some, with a significant deposit, until you receive the ones that you ARE going to order.

Daniel

 

[chuck hahn]

Search feature..type in shim club..

 

[wera racer]

Where are you located? I could "loan" you some, with a significant deposit, until you receive the ones that you ARE going to order.

Daniel

Thanks, Daniel, I'm in Memphis. You can send me a private message if you like.

And I did search using "shim club" and found Ghostgs1 and have sent him a PM to see if he can help.

Many thanks!
Rick

 

[wera racer]

Thanks for everyone's input and offers to help. Ray (Ghostgs1) is getting me a variety of shims by Wednesday so I still have a shot at making the Barber race. Many thanks, Ray.

On a related note, I stripped one of the exhaust cam holder 6mm bolt threads. I wanted to repair it with a Time-Sert as I've had much success with them in the past, but because these threads are recessed in the head I was hestitant to try it because Time-Serts have to be recessed into a counterbore using the special tool they provide. So instead I used a helicoil, which I don't much care for, and got a decent thread in there but the bolt was a bit long and I'm reluctant to tighten it any furhter to make contact with the cam holder for fear of breaking it.

I've read the various threads on this issue and there seems to be a consensus that three bolts is sufficient. I wonder, though, given this is a racing motor and has stronger springs, I'm I taking a big chance here?

If there's a weak link in this motor, this seems to be it. Seems like every time I pull the cams I end up with a stripped thread.

Any suggestions/advice will be much appreciated.
Rick

 

[Agemax]

try grinding off a few threads off the bolt until it seats properly and torques up correctly

 

[wera racer]

try grinding off a few threads off the bolt until it seats properly and torques up correctly

Sure, I can do that and I have shorter bolts. What I didn't make clear was the way it went in makes me feel like I may regret trying to remove it now, if that makes sense. But then I guess there's nothing to lose since it's not tight on the cam holder now anyway.

 

[GregT]

Helicoiled threads often feel tight as you reach the bottom of the helicoil, particularly in blind holes where you may not have been able to tap as deep as you'd like.
Shortening the 6mm screw will work if you're reluctant to wind it in
Are you sure the helicoil is inserted properly - it hasn't jumped a thread as they can be prone to do ?

 

[Agemax]

Sure, I can do that and I have shorter bolts. What I didn't make clear was the way it went in makes me feel like I may regret trying to remove it now, if that makes sense. But then I guess there's nothing to lose since it's not tight on the cam holder now anyway.

try and ease it out slowly ,if it wont come out easy then it may just unscrew the helicoil and pull it out with the bolt

 

[wera racer]

I guess what I'm asking is am I pushing my luck by running this thing with only three of the four cam holder bolts working?

I just don't know what the forces are. You've got one exhaust valve on that side opening which exerts an upward force (especially with racing springs installed), but this is countered by the shaft pushing down on the opposite exhaust holder and the cam chain on the sprocket. Plus the rotation of the earth, the rising MS river and all sorts of other effects.

I guess my options are to either try and fix it and risk further damage because I'll have to loosen and re-tighten the other three bolts yet one more time to get at it, or just run it and hope it doesn't explode.

 

[Guest]

One thing I've seen a lot of guys on here do (and am contemplating myself) is putting studs in the head to replace the bolts and using nuts to lock the exhaust on.

This seems to be a huge improvement over the risk of stripping more exhaust bolt holes...